TORS and Carb BS

[Joey_Stacks]

Im starting to realize what you really get when you buy a blaster for 100bucks that needs work.
Ok so after putting this blaster around the yard to break the new piston in I pulled into the garage and the carb overflow was leaking. I pulled the carb out and It looks alright on the inside but the screw down bottom for the overflow was stripped. The cap to hold the plunger in seems to just spin and spin. I pulled everything out and blasted it with carb cleaner and popped it back in and it started leaking again out 2 holes on the inside of the carb. (right side when your sitting on it) AND there is still a slow trickle from the overflow.
So now I got a rebuild kit coming but now I dont know if thats gonna be enough. I tried to get it to idle by messing with the Tors and air screw but when I tightened the TORS screw it would only idle at explosive levels and when i screwed it out a little it wouldnt Idle at all.
So Im irritated now and posting this. Should I try to get a new carb and some sort of TORS eliminator or should I just take it to someone with a little bit more experience?
Im really trying here to make this dang thing work!

 

[brandoz28]

if the tors won't tighten down to the top of the carb, you've got a serious air leak which could kill that new piston in a hurry.

 

[Joey_Stacks]

Should I get some pictures together to help with this bs?

 

[Joey_Stacks]

if the tors won't tighten down to the top of the carb, you've got a serious air leak which could kill that new piston in a hurry.

So what Im thinking Is I need a new carb and TORS unit? Or can I eliminate my tors with a new carb. And what Size should carb should I get and how much should I expect to pay?

 

[brandoz28]

it wouldn't hurt. but if fuel is coming out the tubes on the sides of the carb, you need to check your needle and seat in the carb too. they may be worn, or there's just a little piece of something in there that's letting the fuel get past. if its leaking out the bottom, that's actually a drain for the carb

 

[brandoz28]

So what Im thinking Is I need a new carb and TORS unit? Or can I eliminate my tors with a new carb. And what Size should carb should I get and how much should I expect to pay?

if the threads at the top of the carb aren't good enough to let the top tighten down, then you'll need a new carb. you may be able to get one from a member on here. otherwise an OKO 28mm is around 80 bucks on ebay.

 

[Joey_Stacks]

it wouldn't hurt. but if fuel is coming out the tubes on the sides of the carb, you need to check your needle and seat in the carb too. they may be worn, or there's just a little piece of something in there that's letting the fuel get past. if its leaking out the bottom, that's actually a drain for the carb

Yeah I think the floats were sticking at first and thats why it was leaking so much out of the overflow. When I took it apart and blasted it the flow slowed to a trickle. Would I have to get a whole tors unit to get a cap that isnt stripped??? Im gonna just go back downstairs and pull the carb off and look at the threads. I will post some pictures back in a couple mins.

 

[brandoz28]

if it's the cap that's stripped, i'd eliminate the tors

 

[xjma]

ususally leaking gas out of the overflows either means that the needle in the seat is stuck or the float is improperly adjusted. About one out of every four times I open the float bowl and put it back on, the needle seems to stick open. I fix it by just tapping the bowl with a screwdriver handle a few times. Otherwise, I believe that it's adjusted properly, or close enough!! If it's way off it will keep the needle in seat valve open even when the bowl is full.

 

[Joey_Stacks]

I took a good look and It seems the threads on the carb look bad here is a pic

I believe the hose on the left is for air and gas was coming out the hole to the immediate right of it which makes no sense to me because the hole dosent seem to be made for a hose to connect at all there was one on it and I took it off

and do these oil burns look right on the plunger?

So looking at the threads on the cap connected to the tors unit I think they are alright. These carbs are 26mm stock right? Would a 30mm work with what I got? Or should I just buy a used stock carb and hope not to run into the same crap?

 

[Joey_Stacks]

if the threads at the top of the carb aren't good enough to let the top tighten down, then you'll need a new carb. you may be able to get one from a member on here. otherwise an OKO 28mm is around 80 bucks on ebay.

Are the OKO 28's good carb's?

 

[brandoz28]

yeah, you've got some things a little mixed up with those hoses man.

the place you said doesn't look like it should have a hose needs one, and that port on the left was for the oil injection. you need to plug that thing. will the tors cap tighten down or not? those threads look a bit like the ones on my old carb and it was junk.

28-30mm is a pretty standard upgrade on a fairly stock blaster

 

[Joey_Stacks]

yeah, you've got some things a little mixed up with those hoses man.

the place you said doesn't look like it should have a hose needs one, and that port on the left was for the oil injection. you need to plug that thing. will the tors cap tighten down or not? those threads look a bit like the ones on my old carb and it was junk.

28-30mm is a pretty standard upgrade on a fairly stock blaster

Yeah you gotta bear with me this is my first 2stroke. No the tors cap will not tighten down to the point where I have faith in it. It will get fairly tight but if you give it a good crank the POS will keep spinning.
So the outlet next to the hose is where the air hose should be. and where the hose is now is for the oil injection? Well crap

 

[brandoz28]

yeah that needs to be plugged if you're running premix...and if you're not running premix you need to start lol. and i hate to say it but you're probably in need of a new carb

 

[Joey_Stacks]

I just put a bid in on an OKO 28mm carb. Yeah I am running premix. Its funny it took 3extra days for the oil injection blockoff to come in and I couldnt wait so my friend and I threw it together. Im sure when this new carb comes in I will be asking a bunch of jetting questions.

 

[Iceman72]

After reading about carb probs on this forum for the last couple weeks,I can relate to these problems.My bike would fire up on the first kick but it would rev out of control.I just spent 3 days off of work pulling this stinking carb off my bike and analyzing every little stupid thing.Cleaning jets,messing with the needle,etc....etc...
I thought my cap was screwed on tight,but it wasn't.The rubber washer under the cap kept getting cockeyed or caught up in the the return spring when I would screw it down,but couldn't see it.I would spray carb cleaner all around the intake and it seemed sealed.Then I sprayed right around the cap and it would take off out of control.

I put some high tack sealant on the gasket and.....whammo!!!The cap screwed on the right way and all my probs were solved.

 

[xjma]

Those threads don't look bad in the pic, but I guess they must be messed up if it keeps spinning...??? How do the threads on the inside of the cap look??

That skinny hole that is sticking out needs to be capped off with a little vacuum cap, ASAP. You can blow the motor if you keep trying to run it with out a cap there!!

Oh, and that isn't oil staining on the slide, that's just the remaining paint!! The whole thing should be black!! The fact that there is only a little black left tells us that that carb is old and worn out!

If you can get a vacuum plug (and zip tie it onto the part sticking out so it's air tight...even a little RTV can help) and get that cap on tight you should be able to get it to run with that carb, but seeing how worn the slide is, a new one is definitely in order.

 

[brandoz28]

thats exactly what my threads looked like and neither the tors unit or my delete cap would fit it

 

[roadkill]

if i were you i would try putting some teflon plumbing tape on the threads before you buy a whole new carb thats what i did with my friends blaster 3 years ago and its still working beuatiful

 

[blasterdemon7]

Going with the OKO is a good deal.