The Turbo Blaster Lives.....

So, to expand on that, pretty much any type of turbo youre going to find nowdays in a junkyard (especially if its on a fuel injected car) is gonna be a dynamic seal. The fuel in the air stream is going to eventually break down the oil seal that makes up the floating bearing in the middle.

How fast this will happen? I dunno. Will you even notice if the seal in the turbo is bad? I dunno. It will basically start consuming oil from the pump system, normally it would smoke and youd notice it, but on a 2 stroke, I guess you just have to keep an eye on the oil and how rapidly its consuming it.
 
haha, yeah sorry no updates, havent really done anything with it. Been busy and pretty bumed out when the ~400 dollar turbo bit the dust. I did get one off ebay that I thought would be the same size, but the compressor wheel is slightly bigger, which cannot be good because of how long it took to spool that tiny thing. I do plan on messing with it more when the weather gets warmer, im not much for working out in the cold ;). I cannot find anywhere to buy mandrel bent tubing this small, anyone know where I can get some? Now that I know it will work, I am going to do it up right this time, instead of just cobbleing it together, the point in it was to see if it would work, now that i know it will, I will make it nice.

And yes I am aware of the seal issure, but I do not see any practical way to put the carb after the compressor as I would have to presurize the fuel coming in to the bowl wouldnt I? It just seems like it would be pretty rough trying to do a blow through set up with it. Honestly what I would LOVE to do is get a megasquirt set up and do EFI on it. It would be an open loop system as im sure an 02 sensor would last 10 mins tops, but still, how awesome would that be.. haha. In the mean time it will be a draw through set up though.

If anyone knows were I can get some mandrel bent tubing the size of the stock exhaust please let me know, stainless or not does not matter to me (would prefer stainless).

sorry for leaving everyone hanging, ill try to read back through the thread and see were I left off.
 
heres an idea.. just my .2 ( im a honda and dsm tuning kind of fella so bare with me..

if i was you i would look for what is called a t-25 turbo. or td05. you will find this turbo on newer eagle talons,eclipse, ( before they all went v6 ) you can find them all over e-bay for hella cheap btw maybe even a t20 or smaller.

their small and spool if you literally blow into them with your mouth.. i would also consider fabbing up a better intake for the turbo itself.since an fmic cant be a factor here.. just clamp a decent filter to the cold side of the turbo and let it eat.. any mud,dirt or just anything in general will definately hurt this thing quick..

the reason your turbo blew as as you know by now it lacked oil is due to no oil pump... this could be solved..i was thinking about a fish tank pump or something along those lines.. OR figure out a way to use your oil injection ( if you trashed it ) and mechanically lube your turbo.. if i ran an external pump... i would just make or find a fitting that screws directly into YOUR DRAIN PLUG and run a line from the drain to the oil inlet side of the turbo...then the outlet to the full plug.. . most of us boosted car fellas do that or tap the oil pan and go that route.. you would think it doesnt take alot.. think again.. im not sure how much oil you put into a blaster crank case... but lubing the turbo will add another half to full quart.. just because there is an inlet and outlet from the turbo to the crankcase...again id just use the fill and drain plugs... its easier and already there

this sounds odd but theres got to be a way..

now for the carb... like cars when running a turbo you will need a larger fuel delivery supply.. so you might want to consider rejetting or the next thing you know you will be blowing more then the turbo... read this... it will help you better understand boost and how it applies to just about everything boosted..

Engine Basics: Detonation and Pre-Ignition: Streetrod Stuff

im getting ready to complete my gt35r turbo powered hatchback with a built k20a swap.. im looking around 550-610ish WHP. at 2210lbs... i might as well strap my ass to an acme rocket.. but the moral of the story is tuning is everything... you must have a way to control the turbo sysem as a whole.. oil + fuel is key.. without either.. = boom.
you got to feed the baby before it will crawl.. i would start searching to see how carbed cars use a turbo system... understanding its all off of exhaust gases.. but the carb issue for me is puzzling.. i havent a clue.

good luck i hope this helps..
 
I've been following this and have a few coments. 1. almost any car turbo will be WAY to big for a blaster or any other 4 wheeler for that matter. 2. using the transmission oil to lube the turbo would probably be a bad idea. 3. turbo lag plus the 2 stroke power band will be very peaky and probably hard as hell to ride.
 
I did have an oil pump, I just forgot to switch it on.. :-/

Its a td025 turbo and its the smallest turbo I have seen in person. The only part a quarter will fit in is the exist of the exhaust. Every other opening is too small :D.

And it spooled extremely slow even then. I suspect that with a big bore and stroker crank it would be quicker to spool, but that requires money.

And im very familiar with the demands of added fuel when you add air. Ive been playing with cars since I was 15 and playing with gokarts since I could walk lol.

When I go to tune this thing im going to get an exhuast gas temp. sensor to help with tuning it, since a wideband 02 sensor would be quickly killed.
 
TD05 and a T25 are too big for this application.

The turbo off a turbo metro or turbo sprint would be better. I had a Hyundai Scoupe with a turbo on it and that turbo seemed like it would be a decent choice for something like this. You want something TINY.

As for the dynamic seal thing, honestly, the only thing that happens for you if your turbo seals blow is either you blow a bunch of oil through your engine or you dump it out the exhaust.

I think in a 2 stroke application, if the floating seal goes bad, it isnt near as big of a deal as it would be if you had the turbo on a 4 stroke.

Just keep an eye on your oiling system.
 
OK a safety note for you guys not sure if you know this but lets say you have 10lbs of boost in the carb you have to have that on top and in the bowl of the carb, if not the carb may not close when letting off and it will stay WOT. Thats why you need to run a plenum so you can have vacuum lines to run them to the carb also to make sure the fuel keeps going in the main a lot off boost will make the carb act up that's why there's the need for boosting the carb on the top and bottom. long store short your going to get hurt and your going to kill your top end :(
 
how does arctic cat have there turbo system set up? I know they had a turbo 600 trail sled you could put a quarter in the compressor side. try talking to Ulmers in Menno SD they used to have a lot of turbo kits for Yamaha sleds but their big kick is supercharging the new apex. Welcome to Ulmer Racing All the Ulmers are performance minded talk to one bout 2500HP quad turbo tractor ask the other to build a 6 engine BBC puller they all know their sh*t.
 
So..

Worked on it today some. Cleaned up the new (used ebay) turbo some, put all my previous piping back on and got to looking at the turbo some to see how I want to do it this time. One problem, this new turbo has an internal wastegate (yay.. saves me money, as this turbo was cheaper than buying a new high quality external wastegate) BUT, the bracket that holds the wastegate thingy (part that the spring is in) bolts to the compressor side of the turbo, which means without modification or creation of a new bracket or something means I cannot turn the outlet of the compressor side to face the direction I need it to face. As it is, it faces almost 180 degrees away from where I want it to face. I unbolted the wastegate thingy from the housing and turned it to face the direction were the old turbo was and got it to line up perfectly, hooked everything up and well the bracket for the wastegate hits the little fitting for the boost reference for the wastegate. So, I looked at how I could make it work without having to modify anything on the turbo and using it as is, and basically I would have to completely scrap everything I have done and start from scratch. I would sell everything before I did that. I think what I am going to do is cut the rod that goes from the wastegate to the valve in the exhaust housing and bolt the wastegate where its supposed to and weld a bar or something to connect to now two piece rod going from the wastegate to the wastegate valve. If you can picture what I am saying.. lol.
I also think I may have figured out a way to getting oil to this thing. Ima pull the flywheel cover off and take a look to see if it will work. I have a spare LS1 oil pump laying around and may try to find a junk stock crankshaft off a ls1 and cut the snout off to turn the stock pump bolted to the flywheel..... I need to see behind the cover first to know if this will work, but it would provide PLENTY of oil for the turbo and will eliminate any stator mods i have been looking into.

Thoughts?
 
are you talking about getting rid of the stator? you can't do that....and i think that doing that pump is gonna be a huge parasitic drag on the motor....
 
brandoz28 said:
are you talking about getting rid of the stator? you can't do that....and i think that doing that pump is gonna be a huge parasitic drag on the motor....
Click to expand...

No, just leaving it stock. I was looking at doing an electric pump to produce 30-40~ psi of oil pressure for the turbo, which to get enough juice to run something like that Im sure I would have to do some serious modding to the stock stator. And I have thought about the pump being a parasitic loss to the motor but how much so? Its so easy to turn by hand.. Lets say it takes a hp or two to turn, but I gain 10-15+, so worth it. Could also use an old small block chevy pump but I think the ls1 pump idea would be relatively easy to do. Maybe I should try to find a little import car oil pump like off a honda or something?

Thoughts?
 
Wow there is a lot of bad bad info in this thread. I build blowthrough turbo systems all the time for various cars. As far as the carb goes. First off the carb must be a of suitable design to handle or be modded to handled positive pressure. We all know or should know they work on vacuum.

The carb must have most of its passages sealed and pluged to the bare minum needed to supply the needle circuit piliot circuit and main circuit. Teh rest of the passages need to be plugged.

Float: floats need to be nitrophyil or they will collapse around 10psi. Not a issue here.

Fuel.
The biggie.

In a blowthrough system you have baseline fuel pressure needed to run the car/bike/atv. Lets use 3psi for this. Okay so you have a pump pushing 3psi into the carb. You put positive pressure into the carb say 10 psi. So now the float bowel sees 10psi pressurizes the float and pushes fuel back to the tank why you ask. 3psi of pressure is in teh bowel smacking 10. So 7psi is pushing fuel back. You need to run a rising rate regulator to add 1psi of fuel per 1psi of boost to keep the baseline of 3 in the carb.

Lots of tards dont understand this and blow there sh*t up fast well i had a holley red pump etc. its not enough. when i build 400hp+ cars with blowthrough you need a efi pump to keep it up. You also need a surge tank to handle fuel in teh corner due to slosh.

On to turbo blasters. I am at the beginging stage of doing this myself. wont be a hodge podge backyard job rather a low volume 2-4psi max running efi via megasquirt. Why you ask...Slide carbs cant take boost very well if at all. Due to the needle enriching circuit design it jut does not work for crap. i have tried it for over ten years on SU's fr jags mg and various other carbs. It wont work for crap. Leave the vintage turbo setups to the pros and go buy a Honda b18 red top super jdm rhd 140hp vtec is the greatest force in the universe pos car ;) Thats a good place to learn Turbo yo then THE nawz lol.

I just cant reply to all teh "FAIL" that was put into 18 pages of this thread and all the mis conceptions. It urks the piss out of me to see such a bad bad bad bad attempt without prior knowledge or a even a wantign to learn how to do this the right way.

My biggest concern when i do mine. Keeping the head and jug mated as one.

Best source on the net for blowthrough turbo setups is gonna be turbo buicks and my posts and there is about 40 threads of mine on rx7club.com alone documenting my builds.

You wanna run draw through like this you need a carbon chra seal so it does not degrade. You wanted to know how fast the seal will go if not carbon um....about 5-10 minutes. Can you say jet engine effect on the turbine.

Oil would be handle buy a high pressure low volume scavenge pump and a gravity drain just like a sds system.

I have done these on bikes before i used a liang li d5 pump used in water cooling PC's Why the internal seals can be modded to handle oil and synth at that for the high heat load. Scavenge tank can be mounted under the turbo and scavenge pump draws oil out. Stock carb could be used to do draw through if the seal can be fixed. Look up ray jay turbo seals. minimum jetting mods would be needed in this fashion. But this is gonna poor ass loads of heat into the chamber. Gas as it atomizes and reaches its flash point will drop temps down alot but not much. Especially if you are trying to run this thing for more than single passes at the track. I could go on and on and on here but,.....I DIGRESS!
 
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Dude said:
Wow there is a lot of bad bad info in this thread. I build blowthrough turbo systems all the time for various cars. As far as the carb goes. First off the carb must be a of suitable design to handle or be modded to handled positive pressure. We all know or should know they work on vacuum.

The carb must have most of its passages sealed and pluged to the bare minum needed to supply the needle circuit piliot circuit and main circuit. Teh rest of the passages need to be plugged.

Float: floats need to be nitrophyil or they will collapse around 10psi. Not a issue here.

Fuel.
The biggie.

In a blowthrough system you have baseline fuel pressure needed to run the car/bike/atv. Lets use 3psi for this. Okay so you have a pump pushing 3psi into the carb. You put positive pressure into the carb say 10 psi. So now the float bowel sees 10psi pressurizes the float and pushes fuel back to the tank why you ask. 3psi of pressure is in teh bowel smacking 10. So 7psi is pushing fuel back. You need to run a rising rate regulator to add 1psi of fuel per 1psi of boost to keep the baseline of 3 in the carb.

Lots of tards dont understand this and blow there sh*t up fast well i had a holley red pump etc. its not enough. when i build 400hp+ cars with blowthrough you need a efi pump to keep it up. You also need a surge tank to handle fuel in teh corner due to slosh.

On to turbo blasters. I am at the beginging stage of doing this myself. wont be a hodge podge backyard job rather a low volume 2-4psi max running efi via megasquirt. Why you ask...Slide carbs cant take boost very well if at all. Due to the needle enriching circuit design it jut does not work for crap. i have tried it for over ten years on SU's fr jags mg and various other carbs. It wont work for crap. Leave the vintage turbo setups to the pros and go buy a Honda b18 red top super jdm rhd 140hp vtec is the greatest force in the universe pos car ;) Thats a good place to learn Turbo yo then THE nawz lol.

I just cant reply to all teh "FAIL" that was put into 18 pages of this thread and all the mis conceptions. It urks the piss out of me to see such a bad bad bad bad attempt without prior knowledge or a even a wantign to learn how to do this the right way.

My biggest concern when i do mine. Keeping the head and jug mated as one.

Best source on the net for blowthrough turbo setups is gonna be turbo buicks and my posts and there is about 40 threads of mine on rx7club.com alone documenting my builds.
Click to expand...

This thread has been dead for what, 5-6 months?
 
Indeed but the educated masses of those who went to engineering school had to bring it up to bring to light the wrong doing behind its idiotic linings. So flame on the people who know how to do this brought it up to bring to light the correct way to achieve this amazing feat.

This thread gets cross referenced alot and brought up frequently. I wanted to set the info right as to not discourage other people from attempting this. I wanted the correct info in the thread. Sorry if that was wrong.

Some kind of wow man thanks for shareing that with us and showing us the right way would have been cool but again....i digress!

If you dont want educated responses i just wont post.

I also wanted to throw the b.S flag 0n the psi that was pushed threw the motor. I am not gonna get into flow maps of the td05 and the cfm of air its moving with a restriction of 8psi or its sonic surge limit at said cfm and psi. Lets just say it would have shot the head off the jug. Let alone the detonation issue with stock timing at 8psi it would have incurred which would have destroyed the skirts and ring lands.
 
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Not meant to be a direct attack but rather a firm stating of the facts as they are in order to make it work :) you guys have questions i will gladly answer them.
 
I appreciate what youre posting in here Dude. You seem to know a lot more about the carb'd turbo setups

Also I hope I didnt give out bad info in here. Other than my unsure guess about what would happen if your turbo seal went out, I mean eventually the shaft would sieze I guess, but in a turbo car, usually if your seals go out, you start smoking, on a blaster, you might not even notice it ya know?
 
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