I'm taking off the cylinder to get s stud hole rethreded, and do not have a clue where to start and the method off taking it off, want to take it off now as I have to take it tomorrow to get fixed for use on saturday, any help would be great 
taking off the cylinder ??
- Thread starter darrencurry08
- Start date
remove the carb and reeds, them remove the exhaust pipe/muffler, then remove 4 nuts on the base of the cylinder, then carefully pull upward, then your done
actually first thing remove the seat and gas tank then steps above^^^
actually first thing remove the seat and gas tank then steps above^^^
remove seat, fuel tank (4bolts at the corners) , pipe, carb, and intake
remove the nuts holding the head to the cylinder, remove head
remove the 4 bolts at the 4 corners holding the cylinder to the bottm end, carefully slide the cylinder up off the piston.
place a clean rag around the crank to keep anything from falling down in.
when your ready to reassemble, watch the vids here....
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/kor-engine-assembly-vids-no-crank-puller-needed-51169/
remove the nuts holding the head to the cylinder, remove head
remove the 4 bolts at the 4 corners holding the cylinder to the bottm end, carefully slide the cylinder up off the piston.
place a clean rag around the crank to keep anything from falling down in.
when your ready to reassemble, watch the vids here....
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/kor-engine-assembly-vids-no-crank-puller-needed-51169/
Is it that hard to take off the carb and reeds ?, I already have all the other stuff done
not hard at all, undo both clamps, front and rear of carb, unhook rear intake tube from peg on frame to allow it to swing free, twist and wiggle it out to the kicker side < (if oil injection line is still in use), place in a plastic bag and tie shut, remove the 4 bolts holding the intake and reeds in, pull back and out.
measure it with a bore gauge
can you see the numbers on the top of the piston ?
if so, they will tell you what size it is/was now.
if no numbers, just an arrow, chances are it's stock 66mm
Another fine example of a fine use of a Clymers or the online download manual would be a great benifit.
As to measuring, it's more precise than a tape as it has to measure within .001 inch or .01mm
As to measuring, it's more precise than a tape as it has to measure within .001 inch or .01mm
Aww I see, I think its stock anyway, cylinders coming back tomorrow so hopefully be up and running for tomorrow night , then going out on thursday I:I
, then going out on thursday I:I
Aww I see, I think its stock anyway, cylinders coming back tomorrow so hopefully be up and running for tomorrow night
Hey Darren, you're a whole lot smarter about engines than you were at the start of the week!
Not a whole lot to be afraid of.
Keep things clean, don't overtighten the bolts (torquewrench is good) and check to make sure your oil is flowing.
Good going!
Steve
And now it may be time for heat cycles, retension and break in, and an esay ride on Thursday.
Good luck!
Good luck!
yeah least ive learned something now I:I, have it sitting ready for the reeds and carburetor to go on the exhaust, but i have one small problem, the piston doesn't seem to go down all the way, is doesn't really go down to the fuel ports just the 1st one at the very top is this the way it should be ?
what do you have to do in the heat cycles ? but does this just not occur when you change the piston or is it the same basically ? thanks
Yes, this is normal.
It has to go to the bottom of the exhaust port. The 2 ports on the other side are the intakes, uncovered by the piston skirt into the bottom of the engine when the piston goes up. Amazing isn't it?
The 4 ports on the sides are called "transfers". They transfer from bottom to top, as does that 3rd intake port at the back of the cylinder.
Steve
this is to help "set & seal" the new gaskets, do the heat cycles, allow to cool completely, then retorque the head and base nuts
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/blaster-engine-break-44174/
Also, for some reason the way Yamaha designed the engine, the piston doesn't totally uncover the transfers by about 1.5mm, weird huh.
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