stator?

speedyslyder said:
ive had tons of bikes and quads....you need enough compression to fully rev it....i cant explain it to you but you should get it....lets say this...if you had 11 psi do you think it would rev????? ...the cylinder and piston are a PUMP,WITH A VALVE BEING YOUR REEDS.....IF YOUR PUMP IS LEAKING LIKE YOUR COMP GAUGE IS GUESS WHAT IT IS BROKEN :):D:cool::p
Click to expand...

Okay idk since it was working fine before stator went bad it must me it idk byt it seems loke it wouldn't even start..we are going to order an oem
 
speedyslyder said:
ive had tons of bikes and quads....you need enough compression to fully rev it....i cant explain it to you but you should get it....lets say this...if you had 11 psi do you think it would rev????? ...the cylinder and piston are a PUMP,WITH A VALVE BEING YOUR REEDS.....IF YOUR PUMP IS LEAKING LIKE YOUR COMP GAUGE IS GUESS WHAT IT IS BROKEN :):D:cool::p
Click to expand...

Okay idk since it was working fine before stator went bad it must me it idk byt it seems loke it wouldn't even start..we are going to order an oem
 
just read up on here about leak tests and proper jetting and mixing gas..you probably fried you top end from one of these symptoms......3 stators come on get over it..you fried your top end....the pump or piston a cylinder pump gas and air to the top of piston...the more air and gas you have exploding up top the higher the rpm RIGHT?? ITS NOT PUMPING ENOUGH AIR AND FUEL TO EXPLODE AND REV UP TO WHAT IS IT LIKE 8000 RPMS?
 
ok probably both :)
 

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100 psi is the point of rebuilding, it is not "crap" or "sh*t"

try a new compression gauge, leak test the motor.

what year blaster is it?
 
100psi will allow it to start, run and rev out but the power will be less than average!.

Read the first post again, the guy said it was working just fine until the stator died.

Replacing the stator does not lower the compression, if it ran fine before the stator died, replacing the stator with a good one should make it run run fine again.

Let us try to be helpful, rather trying to diagnose.

The black wire is ground.

The yellow red wire is AC volts of zero to about 50 volts which is fed to the regulator to feed the lights.
image.jpg
 
Last edited:
Blaaster said:
100psi will allow it to start, run and rev out but the power will be less than average!.

Read the first post again, the guy said it was working just fine until the stator died.

Replacing the stator does not lower the compression, if it ran fine before the stator died, replacing the stator with a good one should make it run run fine again.

Let us try to be helpful, rather trying to diagnose.

The black wire is ground.

The yellow red wire is AC volts of zero to about 50 volts which is fed to the regulator to feed the lights.
Click to expand...

Okay..ive been thru two high output statorS and now a regular one it seems like one of those would work should we get an oem??
 
My first thoughts when any new electronics are fitted always lead to the parking brake.

Second thoughts TORS removal, was it done correctly.

Thirdly, grounding.

Have you tried a new plug?
 
Blaaster said:
My first thoughts when any new electronics are fitted always lead to the parking brake.

Second thoughts TORS removal, was it done correctly.

Thirdly, grounding.

Have you tried a new plug?
Click to expand...

Here's the whole story I was riding it in some water and then a few days later I was riding and I ran out of gas then I put more in and it wouldn't start so I pulled the flywheel cover off and there was water in there so I replaced the stator then it started but wont rev and the tors was deleted correctly and both switches work and the parking brake switch works...if the tors was bad it wouldn't even start that has nothing to do with it
 
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