Stator ?

[wwholden]

I have a DR350S im trying to wire up into a DR250 frame. The DR350S electrical system was ment for street so it has a lot more crap than I need for my off road DR250. The engines are almost identical. In fact you can put a 350 top end on a 250 bottom end by just trading cranks. My question is would a 250 stator work in my 350 engine? Or would timing be off? If I could swap stators I could match it up with my 250 wiring harness which is a lot more simpler.

 

[wwholden]

Anyone? 1515151515

 

[best]

Send some pictures of the two stators and I might be able to give and intelligent answer,
but the only other guy who has done that swap is on another forum!

My "best" guess is yes you can. The Blaster/DT200 is like this.
Very different stators but interchangeable as long as you keep the wiring with the stator it belongs to.

 

[gb blaster]

whats 1515151515 why everyone write that?

 

[Blaaster]

15 character requirement gets a 15151515.

I just thumb the spacebar a while and hit .

 

[wwholden]

Just wanted to say that the stators are not compatible. The pic up coil mounts are different and wont line up correctly. Also the DR250 flywheel cover/stator will not bolt up to the DR350S case. So its not possible to do the exchange. Im still not getting spark with my DR350S. I test coil on my blasty since hook up wires were the same and it works. I just need to test the stator and CDI. Anyone know of a generic way of testing stators?

 

[best]

You test the Stator and pick up coils for resistance, using a good quality digital meter.
Cheap meters will not be sensitive enough for the low resistance involved.

Typically you are dealing with 3 pairs of wires, that may have some couples paired or sunk to ground.
2 wires each for the stator coil, magneto/ignition coil, pickup coil/device.
You need the resistance values from a shop manual. The wiring diagram would help too.

Typically bad coils either have an open wire and infinite resistance, or are internally shorted from overheating or movement breaking down the resistance.
The metal core rusting happens too, but is generally obvious.

 

[wwholden]

I do want to say that this was possible for future reference for others trying to do the same thing. It took some rigging to get it to work. I basically took the stator out of the 250 and bolted the magneto inside the 350S stator cover. Every thing lined up there fine. However the pick up coil was the issue. The 350S had two pick up coils which I dont know why and the the 250 only had one. I just studied the flywheel timing marks on the 350S and then looked at the one timing mark on the 250 flywheel. The longer one is evidently the more important one. So I tried to mount the pick up coil from the 250 in the location that would line up with the longer timing mark on the 350S fly wheel. The mounts didn't quite line up so it took a little dremel work. Once that was all together I installed the 250 CDI and wire harness to the 350S engine. I got it to run and seemed like it was in time and had the capabilities of running good. However it would bog when giving it gas. But it would straiten itself out if I chocked the air box with my hand. It would then run smooth. So I believe it was a jetting issue not a ignition issue but can not guarantee it. I have since then gotten rid of it because I was tired of screwing with the carb.