I just got an 01 blaster; cleaned carb and had to put a cdi on it. Has been sitting for 9 months but fired up on 3 kick. Ran half decent but was leaking fuel out of overflow. I rode it for about 15 mins doing laps around the yard when it slowly died and cut off. After that it wouldn't even try to start. Still has a good spark so I got a kit today and rebuilt the carb. I set the float height to spec and the carb no longer leaks. Still will not start. I kicked it almost 20 times and pulled plug and it's bone dry. Any suggestions?
Starting Issue
- Thread starter fishnfool777
- Start date
Nice to see you got it (somewhat) running! I'll bet a couple beers that the fuel petcock is partly-clogged, preventing sufficient fuel from flowing into the carb. Take the petcock off the tank and clean both of the screens on top thoroughly. You can't see the fuel strainer screens until you remove the petcock from the tank. Blow though it with compressed air to dislodge any dirt.
Also, pull the carb and check your reeds. You may have a broken or chipped reed. Take the whole cage out and have a look. Damage should be obvious. The reeds must also seat fully against the cage; if one or more is warped, replace 'em all. Cheap insurance against future problems.
A reed problem can prevent the engine from pulling fuel into the cylinder, hence the dry spark plug. Still no gas? Open the bowl drain screw on the carb, and watch for fuel coming out. This will at least test for fuel being able to flow into the carb, past the fuel petcock and inlet needle.
Also, pull the carb and check your reeds. You may have a broken or chipped reed. Take the whole cage out and have a look. Damage should be obvious. The reeds must also seat fully against the cage; if one or more is warped, replace 'em all. Cheap insurance against future problems.
A reed problem can prevent the engine from pulling fuel into the cylinder, hence the dry spark plug. Still no gas? Open the bowl drain screw on the carb, and watch for fuel coming out. This will at least test for fuel being able to flow into the carb, past the fuel petcock and inlet needle.
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
also make double sure you dont have a blocked jet. but if you rebuilt the carb, it should be good, but still wise to blow it out with compressed air
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Oops, one more thing, while you checking petcock for flow, make sure the fuel line from the petcock to the carb is clear, i once had one which had old bits of rubber breaking off from inside the pipe blocking the needle and seat
Well pulled petcock valve and check strainer and fuel line, all was good and clean. Also checked reeds and could not see any visual damage/cracks etc. Checked compression and only have 30 psi. When I pulled reed valve cage I checked for crank bearing play and didn't notice any also connecting rod and pin looked good. Does this mean I need to pull the head or can I be loosing compression else where?
Woah! Only 30psi? Sounds like its time for a new top end. Yes, you'll need to pull the head and jug and take a look inside the engine. Hopefully you can get away with just a new piston and cylinder boring. Once you get the head off, you'll be able to take a good look inside the engine and see for sure just how badly tore-up things are.
how did you check the crank for bearing play and know the pins looked good without pulling the head ?
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Well it seams the top end was gone. I believe I ran it just long enough for it to let go. Pulled it apart and had it bored .40 over. Put a new pro-x 67 mm piston in it and it's good to go. I had issues with bogging on the low end, I adjusted the pilot mixture screw and now it runs great. Rode for it for about an hour today and couldn't believe the difference the top end made. Thanks for everyone's help.
