Starting help

After how many hours are these supposed to have the engine thoroughly gone thru? It hasn't run great since purchased 3 weeks ago and obviously is just getting worse. Never no what your getting off craigslist but it seemed worth the money

I think 89blaster89 had 5 years on his topend befor it blew up imo there is no need to fully go through a motor if it doesent leak and the bottom crank bearing doesent have any up and down play
 
I have buy the tools to do so. I saw a link on how to make your own, ill check that out and get the parts
 
Good move .

If I had to throw away every tool in the box the leak tester would be the last to leave, the most important tool for a 2 stroke owner to have.
 
I understand the importance of the leak down test and about to head to the store to get the parts but im still confused how a leak would cause the issue im having. The pressure is so high it won't let the piston move freely unless the spark plug is off, wouldn't a air leak cause the opposite to happen? If the leak down test shows there no leak what next? Just trying to think ahead
 
My luck sucks! lol Ran great for few hours then suddenly starting bogging under throttle until it just quit running all together.

Going back through your posts, this seems like an air leak developed or a fuel starvation.

Either way detonation could have occurred and fried a piston.



I understand the importance of the leak down test and about to head to the store to get the parts but im still confused how a leak would cause the issue im having. The pressure is so high it won't let the piston move freely unless the spark plug is off, wouldn't a air leak cause the opposite to happen? If the leak down test shows there no leak what next? Just trying to think ahead

If the bottom end is leaking it would allow air into the crankcase and return a similar symptom of having no carby fitted.

If the kicker is so hard to move, there must be a binding problem somewhere, I have never known a motor to increase compression after a failure.
 
So no luck with the leak tester yet, Home depot didn't have the parts needed so not sure where to go to find them now? Im gonna take the top end apart and get a good look at the piston and cylinder.
 
So got the top end apart and the piston and cylinder are banged up. There are 4 different spots around the piston with deep grooves and a cpl corresponding marks on the cylinder wall. The rings are also pretty jammed in the grooves. Guess that's what's wrong lol, I've attached pics.
 

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Last picture of the cylinder

 

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Well at least now you know what the problem is., but the biggest thing is why did this happen. I'm the same way. When something is broke i fix it yet seldom consider why it beyond in the first place. That's where on a two stroke the leak down tester comes into play.
I've learned over time that when i have an issue i always leak test first. This way when either a piston fried up, or a hanging idle slowly develops i know why and where the problem began, and lots of times i can prevent a catastrophic failure.

So if and when you rebuild. First thing is a leak test so you don't have to learn the hard way and do it all over again. Maybe u had a leaky head gasket, leaky base gasket, leaky seal., maybe a tad of a few things who knows. Check to see if any shrapnel got into bottom end and if so do things correct. It may take xtra time but in the end its well well worth it trust me. So when doing top end leak test. :)....

Last but not least. This is the best forum to be on owning a blaster. Tons of great knowledgeable members on here to help you out....
 
Those pics tell me that the motor has not been warmed up correctly before being ridden.

A hot piston in a cold bore will scuff the bore and deposit skirt material on it.

Constant non warm up periods will deposit even more material on the bore for the rings to scrape off.

Shards of material get into the ring grooves and cause them to stick, some shards will make their way into the crankcase and will destroy the bearings.
 
Future reference for you and others, leak test before teardown and before starting rebuild to check for cause/problems. Your failure is also known as a four corner seize. As mentioned, lack of proper warm-up. Can also be caused by rapidly/overly cooling a properly warmed engine. This happened to my son on the lake in 0* WFO in 6th gear:( Always laugh at the name, as a circle (pisto) has no corners. But if you look at the area of the piston where the scuffing is, you'll notice that is where the most material/mass is.