shee's
- Thread starter jahrastapark
- Start date
well...i cant give you all the technical info like 370 haha...
but if you want opinions, i could give you some...
but if you want opinions, i could give you some...
if u want your front wheels off the ground from 1-5 (couldnt get it up in 6th) the shee is the one,and that was stock if things dont work out with my cannondale, a shee the next 1 i get
ok heres more...
look at the subframes.. if the silencers mount directly to the subframe and look crooked.. the sub frame is tweaked.. it's very common on banshees..
also look how the tank and rad cover mount up.. it there is a big gap between them and where they touch the fender.. the rad loop is probably tweaked... also pretty common on shees especially on hillclimbers.. if it flips over onto it's top sometimes they'll tweak that loop.. thats not a huge deal but it makes getting the tank out kinda of a pain sometimes.
check the top case right above the sprocket.. this will be pretty easy to tell if they have an unct stator cover.. when they loose a chain it busts the top of the case. i'll try and get ya a pic of what i mean. it doenst; effect the performance at all BUT.. might be something to mention to drop some $$ off.. make it seem like it's a bigger deal than it is.
on the front of the frame check the wide mount with the 3 holes in it.. you'll know what it is when you see it.. if it's got a funky twist the front been hit hard... if the center is kinda pushed down a bit.. they just used that to hook a tow strap too. and that would be no biggie.. but if it's got a twist.. you probably won't be able to to swap to an elka front shock... we've ran into that before.. a works will work but a elka will not..
sometimes the stock swingarms will crack on the back of the shock mount.. kinda rare but it does happen
if it's got stock a arms.. check the tops for any bending by the ball joint.. i've bent a few right there.. espeically the right side for some reason will bend that tab.. if the right wheel sits cambered in with stock a arms.. thats why.
try and rock the wheel in and out.. if so the balljoints are probably trashed.. banshees are like balsters where you cannot replace the balljoints.. you have to replace the entire arm..
the rear caliper will sometimes trash out the rubber bushing between the caliper and the mounting bracket... it's pretty common so watch for that as well..
as with any machine check the axle for striaght ness
ahh a big one.. take a gander at the footpeg bolts.. especailly if it has nerf bars and stock bolts.. (14mm head with a flange) yamahas (banshees, blasters, tri-z) all have footpeg bolt issues.. try and tighten them a bit and see if they actually tighten up.. the way the footpegs mount is there is just a 10x1.25 nut on the back of that flat piece behind the footpeg.. if that bolt is run too short it'll sometimes rip the end threads out of the nut, strip the nut, or i've seen them pop the spot weld and drop that nut completely out.. if your dealing with a hillbilly idiot.. they'll weld a bolt to the outside of the frame behind the footpeg or they will tack weld a stud into the hole... the proper way to fix that is cut the "cap" off the frame by trimming the welds.. then replacing that nut and welding it all back up.. it takes a while... other guys will fix them by drilling and tapping to a bigger size.. that works also... BUT then the footpegs need to be drilled as well.. most guys use 1/2 x 20 it seems like... that way works.. i've done that in the past as well..
check the sprocket and rear wheels hubs for play
if you pull the seat and see the front seat mount bracket looks like it's been hit down.. that no biggie.. guys do that because sometimes the front of the seat feels loose.. thats real common and no big deal..
check the intake boots. when they get old they crack.. thats any machine though..
if it's got a boost bottle plan on removing it and installing the stock crossover tube.. i've yet to see a boost bottle that doesn't leak air like crazy... they are just made wrong..
your best bet is a leakdown test.. if the guy will let you do it.. this would diagnose a bad crank seal or... another crazy leak you sometimes get.. sometimes air will make it's way between the primary gears and and crank shout and will leak between the gears... that why sometimes you see a banshee that smokes more on the right side then left.. you'd have to see how that gear is installed to understand why it can leak like that..
take a wrench across the head studs and give each one a little push... if any of them aren't tight you'll probably need a head gasket OR the headstud is in weak threads in the cylinder.
i know i'm forgetting something... i'll post when i remember it..
look at the subframes.. if the silencers mount directly to the subframe and look crooked.. the sub frame is tweaked.. it's very common on banshees..
also look how the tank and rad cover mount up.. it there is a big gap between them and where they touch the fender.. the rad loop is probably tweaked... also pretty common on shees especially on hillclimbers.. if it flips over onto it's top sometimes they'll tweak that loop.. thats not a huge deal but it makes getting the tank out kinda of a pain sometimes.
check the top case right above the sprocket.. this will be pretty easy to tell if they have an unct stator cover.. when they loose a chain it busts the top of the case. i'll try and get ya a pic of what i mean. it doenst; effect the performance at all BUT.. might be something to mention to drop some $$ off.. make it seem like it's a bigger deal than it is.
on the front of the frame check the wide mount with the 3 holes in it.. you'll know what it is when you see it.. if it's got a funky twist the front been hit hard... if the center is kinda pushed down a bit.. they just used that to hook a tow strap too. and that would be no biggie.. but if it's got a twist.. you probably won't be able to to swap to an elka front shock... we've ran into that before.. a works will work but a elka will not..
sometimes the stock swingarms will crack on the back of the shock mount.. kinda rare but it does happen
if it's got stock a arms.. check the tops for any bending by the ball joint.. i've bent a few right there.. espeically the right side for some reason will bend that tab.. if the right wheel sits cambered in with stock a arms.. thats why.
try and rock the wheel in and out.. if so the balljoints are probably trashed.. banshees are like balsters where you cannot replace the balljoints.. you have to replace the entire arm..
the rear caliper will sometimes trash out the rubber bushing between the caliper and the mounting bracket... it's pretty common so watch for that as well..
as with any machine check the axle for striaght ness
ahh a big one.. take a gander at the footpeg bolts.. especailly if it has nerf bars and stock bolts.. (14mm head with a flange) yamahas (banshees, blasters, tri-z) all have footpeg bolt issues.. try and tighten them a bit and see if they actually tighten up.. the way the footpegs mount is there is just a 10x1.25 nut on the back of that flat piece behind the footpeg.. if that bolt is run too short it'll sometimes rip the end threads out of the nut, strip the nut, or i've seen them pop the spot weld and drop that nut completely out.. if your dealing with a hillbilly idiot.. they'll weld a bolt to the outside of the frame behind the footpeg or they will tack weld a stud into the hole... the proper way to fix that is cut the "cap" off the frame by trimming the welds.. then replacing that nut and welding it all back up.. it takes a while... other guys will fix them by drilling and tapping to a bigger size.. that works also... BUT then the footpegs need to be drilled as well.. most guys use 1/2 x 20 it seems like... that way works.. i've done that in the past as well..
check the sprocket and rear wheels hubs for play
if you pull the seat and see the front seat mount bracket looks like it's been hit down.. that no biggie.. guys do that because sometimes the front of the seat feels loose.. thats real common and no big deal..
check the intake boots. when they get old they crack.. thats any machine though..
if it's got a boost bottle plan on removing it and installing the stock crossover tube.. i've yet to see a boost bottle that doesn't leak air like crazy... they are just made wrong..
your best bet is a leakdown test.. if the guy will let you do it.. this would diagnose a bad crank seal or... another crazy leak you sometimes get.. sometimes air will make it's way between the primary gears and and crank shout and will leak between the gears... that why sometimes you see a banshee that smokes more on the right side then left.. you'd have to see how that gear is installed to understand why it can leak like that..
take a wrench across the head studs and give each one a little push... if any of them aren't tight you'll probably need a head gasket OR the headstud is in weak threads in the cylinder.
i know i'm forgetting something... i'll post when i remember it..
also, dont let the "double" price scare you....i've paid to rebuild a banshee engine, and now im doing an LT250r. for a bottom end of a shee, you basically need just seals. as the crank bearings are on the crank an most likley are ok. the cases hold no bearings. unlike the LT where it holds a ton of bearings....and has tiny studs that will/can/may break, geuss what if you use heat to fix it, you just trashed every bearing in that case. so your couple hundred dollar easy fix, just turned into like 500. you can easily redo a banshee engine for around like 300. thats for new seals, top end, and basically stays where it was. now for a 60HP...there really isnt much you need....a 370 port, with top case matched, fmf fatty pipes.....uses stock everyhting else, besides reeds....
the "double price" thing is a myth. i use to think that untill i broke into one, and then broke into another engine....you figure it out quickly. hell my g/fs shee is missing an engine, i can buy and rebuild a shee enige for cheaper than putting my LT together.
like any quad, the better you are with maintenance and upkeep, the longer your bike will run, the more you'll enjoy it. theres a ton of info to be known about these machines. 370and i will do our best to keep you properly informed. from stroker setups, to stock setups....we've seen them, known somebody whos ridden them etc.
the "double price" thing is a myth. i use to think that untill i broke into one, and then broke into another engine....you figure it out quickly. hell my g/fs shee is missing an engine, i can buy and rebuild a shee enige for cheaper than putting my LT together.
like any quad, the better you are with maintenance and upkeep, the longer your bike will run, the more you'll enjoy it. theres a ton of info to be known about these machines. 370and i will do our best to keep you properly informed. from stroker setups, to stock setups....we've seen them, known somebody whos ridden them etc.
also the banshee is known for its sort of terrible shifting....not the best shifting quad...most guys buy a shift pro kit and mod the shift star...that sometimes will help...but there are 2 other ways to make it shift a TON better. 1 way is to buy or mod the shift drum (hard to explain, if i had a pic you could see it, basically adding a bearing to the other side) and back cutting the trans (not an over ride either, 370 has more info about that) but those 2 mods will help it shift like smooth butter.....
once you get it where its rideable, upgrades are easy. theres a ton of guys upgrading, gettin rid of their old setups, and can be grabbed cheap.....everything is in affordable reach....as you've seen
once you get it where its rideable, upgrades are easy. theres a ton of guys upgrading, gettin rid of their old setups, and can be grabbed cheap.....everything is in affordable reach....as you've seen
