I have an 01 Yamaha blaster and it doesn't want to run half the time. I have had it running a few times but it always seems to keep back firing through the Carb any suggestions? It was rebuilt bout 2 yrs ago and my cousin rode it once and the tors system messed up so I got it from if and eliminated the tors got spark and it fired but its popping through Carb and reeds are starting to be costly. Hope some has some good ideas of maybe what's up
reeds blowing up
- Thread starter Blaster01pos
- Start date
Back firing sounds like a timing issue. Have you checked your stator and your woodruff key in the flywheel?
The stator seems fine but I believe the wood ruff key looks to be missing. So would that cause blow back through Carb and throttle to be bogging
Thank you I'll try that and see if it works I'm sure it will. Who would have thought such a little part could cause so many problems. Also I have one more question I have aftermarket fmf pipes and silencer which jet should I change and how much bigger should it be I live in Arkansas so elevation isn't super high here
the woodruff key is what aligns the flywheel in time, the taper fit of the flywheel and crank end is what holds it tight.
270-290 main for that FMF.
start large and plug chop down to perfection.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
If you have been running with no key, I would recommend lapping the flywheel. The crank end and flywheel taper need to fit snuggly in order to not shear your key.
Lapping the flywheel consists of putting some fine valve grinding paste on the taper of the crankshaft, placing the flywheel on, ( without the key), and revolving the flywheel back and forth.
When the flywheel turns more freely as the paste gets broken up, take off the flywheel, wipe out the used paste and inspect.
The grooves should now be flattened out.
If there are still grooves, repeat the operation until good mating surfaces are made.
Be sure to wash off all, and I mean all of the grinding paste.
I like to finalise by using a Duco cutting compound No 3 for the final lap.
Tension the nut to 53 ft lbs, do not use Loctite, it is not the nut that holds it on, it is the pressure applied to the tapers.
Make sure that you have the washer under the nut.
When the flywheel turns more freely as the paste gets broken up, take off the flywheel, wipe out the used paste and inspect.
The grooves should now be flattened out.
If there are still grooves, repeat the operation until good mating surfaces are made.
Be sure to wash off all, and I mean all of the grinding paste.
I like to finalise by using a Duco cutting compound No 3 for the final lap.
Tension the nut to 53 ft lbs, do not use Loctite, it is not the nut that holds it on, it is the pressure applied to the tapers.
Make sure that you have the washer under the nut.
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