random dying out???

[blasterdemon7]

Didn't see you here awk.lol

 

[98blaster+4]

i tried running it (after sitting so the bowl would fill) with the gas shut off and it does the same as when its turned on. so i know its something in there. i had thought about the tube that comes up from the bowl could be hanging it up but its not . when the carb is in my hand i can shake it up and down and hear the floats go up and down.
tomorow after work im gonna put my stock carb back on and see if it runs. if so i wont run a keihin again.

 

[blasterdemon7]

Sorry couldn't be more help. It's a tuff one to call.

 

[Surfrjag]

Try holding the carb while its hooked to the fuel line and with the bowl screw out see how fast the fuel flows maybe? Did you try removing the needle valve and cleaning the passageway? Keihin are good carbs but I feel your pain on this one.

 

[98blaster+4]

UPDATE its not the carb, tried the other carb i had before tis one and it does the same thing. runs till its out of fuel . i cleaned the tank out, wasnt much in there.
tried a different coil, no difference. anybody got any ideas

 

[sicivicdude]

How long does it have to sit before it'll restart?

Have you done the electrical tests for the stator coils while the bike is hot? Try running the quad until it dies and then quick jump off the quad and stick a new plug in and lay it against the head and kick the kicker. See if the fire is cutting out because of a heat fault. Is it is, then you HAVE to do the electrical troubleshooting with the engine hot to find what's giving you fits. I would guess the trigger coil. It has a go-no go capability and has less thermal mass so it can cool down in a matter of minutes. The charging coil would heat up slower but stay hotter longer.

 

[98blaster+4]

but it doesnt really get hot from the amount that it will run.
i have switched all the electrical components except the stuff on the stator plate.

 

[98blaster+4]

and also when i take the plug out i cant see spark when placing the plug against the engine while plugged in. but its still bright out.

just had the woman go out and look while i kicked. no spark is forming.
what in the electrical system would allow spark for startup and idle for a minute, but then kick out like theres no gas in the system?

 

[sicivicdude]

If it has a abraided wire coating, all it takes is a little bit of heat to get one copper winding to expand. The trigger coil is pretty small and just a little bit of heat could cause it to short.

Check the fire with a spare plug quickly next time it dies out on you. If it doesn't have a strong spark then carry a multimeter with you the next time and test components while it's dead.

 

[98blaster+4]

on my multimeter it gives increments that are not the same as the book uses and when taking the readings on either setting it jumps around, is that normal?

 

[sicivicdude]

something sounds amiss, either your blaster or your multimeter..... Try changing the battery in your multi-meter?

 

[98blaster+4]

if the readings are on the blaster end of it, what could jumpy readings mean/??

 

[sicivicdude]

partial short in a coil. Not enough to completely take out the ignition system but at random intervals.

 

[98blaster+4]

wheres the best place to buy ignition parts from? is a ricky stator plate any good? worth 125 plus shipping?

 

[sicivicdude]

There are people who are down on ricky stator stuff. You can buy stock replacement coils (IF that's your problem) off Fleabay for about $35 a piece and wire them in yourself (the wiring is elementary solder and heat shrink two wires)

 

[98blaster+4]

i got to get a better ohm tester and try that. could be getting funny readings from having the wrong settings.

 

[sicivicdude]

An inexpensive multimeter from harborfreight or northern tools will work well. They can be had for about $10 (the bells and whistles models can go over $500 too) and will give you accurate resistance readings.

You need to have your multimeter set to ohm or Ω in the range expected (look in the book each of the coils is different) and it should "line out" or settle.

 

[98blaster+4]

yeah the meter i am using has ohms in 20 200 2000 20000 options, none of which are needed for testing the electrics on the blaster

 

[sicivicdude]

ok... a quick lesson in multi meters. The "range" is the digital display range. They don't mean literally 20, 200, 2,000 and 20,000 Ω's they mean displaying one zero (or anything between 0 and 99) anything with two zeroes (so anything between 100 and 999) anything with three zeroes (or anything between 1,001 and 9,999) or anything with four zeroes and above (from 10,000 Ω's and above). They just picked the "2's" so you wouldn't think that was the minimum range....

 

[sicivicdude]

You check a multi-meter by leaving the leads apart and you should get a O.L or (open loop) which means no resistance because there's no connection) and then touching the leads together and making sure it reads 0.00 Ω's. You can also try a third span point by using a marked known resistor.