Maxima Super M here as well , 32:1 . also seems that the Super M Burns a lot better , Its not smoking up the neighborhood like when I was using the Yamalube in the injector before that went Bu-Bye . The shop that built the banshee says to use dominator at 40:1 , I think since I'm doing a mini rebuild Imma switch to maxima and mix that 40:1 . Maxima is good stuff .
pre mix oil
- Thread starter Blaster 01
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Well, there are exceptions to that rule as well. Some oils are designed to maintain their film strength at high "MIX ratios" even in air cooled engines.
Stihl recommends their oil at 50:1 in their air cooled chainsaws, leafblowers, and string trimmers.
Amsoil recommends mixing their oil 50:1 in gasoline for air cooled engines.
I can only tell you my personal experience; that I run my Klotz at 32:1 on high test (93) pump fuel. The 20% castor oil in it does coke more than others but I run it because of it's (supposedly, I'm not a chemist at Klotz so I can't really tell you) superior high temperature film strength properties.
Stihl recommends their oil at 50:1 in their air cooled chainsaws, leafblowers, and string trimmers.
Amsoil recommends mixing their oil 50:1 in gasoline for air cooled engines.
I can only tell you my personal experience; that I run my Klotz at 32:1 on high test (93) pump fuel. The 20% castor oil in it does coke more than others but I run it because of it's (supposedly, I'm not a chemist at Klotz so I can't really tell you) superior high temperature film strength properties.
ib been running klotz snowmobile techniplate ( not super techniplate) due to its being agood oil, available locally, and designed to work with powervalve motors
There are really only a few oil to run from like the plague and even then those oils might be suitable for certain applications. I'd run my $59 weed eater on warren oil (the little single shot bottles made for mixing with on gallon of gasoline) but won't let it near my blaster.
Because of the unavailability of Klotz in my area, I'll probably be trying out some Lucas semi syn 2 stroke oil. I believe it recommends running 50:1 although I'll probably be running a TAD more oil in it just to let me sleep better at night.
Fed, is the snowmobile techniplate not 20% castor oil like the super techniplate?
Because of the unavailability of Klotz in my area, I'll probably be trying out some Lucas semi syn 2 stroke oil. I believe it recommends running 50:1 although I'll probably be running a TAD more oil in it just to let me sleep better at night.
Fed, is the snowmobile techniplate not 20% castor oil like the super techniplate?
correct no castor/benol like the super techniplate, thats where the higher btu/power output from the castor comes into play on the super techniplate, if my LT wasnt powervalved id run the super techplate.. but that 'gummy' residue that happens from the castor in the supertechniplate dont happen with the snowmobile techniplate... i ran it in my 89 blaster with good results,.. something like 20 hours on a plug, mixed at 32:1...
here is the data sheet on it
Snowmobile TechniPlate® TC-W3
Isn't TC-W3 the same specification used in outboard boat engines? I thought they used the TC-W3 specification in boat and snowmobiles because of the relatively low temperatures those engines experienced.
I see on klotz's website that the flashpoint of the snowmobile techniplate is 275 deg F. Super techniplate's flashpoint is 460 deg F. There's a significant difference there... If the oil approaches the upper limit of it's stable temperature the film strength deteriorates quickly.
I see on klotz's website that the flashpoint of the snowmobile techniplate is 275 deg F. Super techniplate's flashpoint is 460 deg F. There's a significant difference there... If the oil approaches the upper limit of it's stable temperature the film strength deteriorates quickly.
you are correct.. but you also have to factor in my machine is liquid cooled, the low flash point worried me at first but with many many hours on differant machines i have yet to see a failure on it..
and it stated being safe for drags, snowcross and whater cross i dont really think there is much to worry about... i have ran pro honda hp2 and its amazing oil and desined for powervalve motors.. just due to the fact that the dealership keeps it in stock, and the klotz i can get locally but its hit or miss on if he has it in, seeing he only orders a few gallons and a few quarts a time
On your LT it's probably more safe than on a hopped up blaster. Might be close to the limit on a really hot blaster engine.
very true, i did run it on my 89 blaster stock bore stock stroke stock porting stock carb, with a lrd pipe and k&n.. rode it HARD and being i was 265 pounds at the time that little machine was working but it ran hard and strong
heres your fuggin KLOTZ super techniplate in action, pictured below was a brand new wiseco in a new ken oconnor, properly bored, honed and gapped cylinder, it had 156lbs compression for a month and a half, my dealer was out of maxima, so i switched to the klotz and it went down to 124lbs compression within the second bottle
it, as civic put it, COKED UP so bad it forced the rings outta the grooves wearing them out in under 3 months.carbon was in the grooves so bad, ken could not get it out, with chemicals or tools, wasted piston !!!!
i wouldn't use klotz to lube drill bits at the workbench,
then soon after this episode, i fried jess oconnors top end while at kens visiting, she had a base gasket leak, from the inferior k&S gaskets, and apparently runs it so easy, the leak wasnt noticed till ken had me whoop on it, so we're thinkin all that puttin around surely has to be carboned up, not one spot of carbon, anywhere, piston or exhaust port, and guess why...........
MAXIMA SUPER M !!!!!!!
heres your KLOTZ......................
it, as civic put it, COKED UP so bad it forced the rings outta the grooves wearing them out in under 3 months.carbon was in the grooves so bad, ken could not get it out, with chemicals or tools, wasted piston !!!!
i wouldn't use klotz to lube drill bits at the workbench,
then soon after this episode, i fried jess oconnors top end while at kens visiting, she had a base gasket leak, from the inferior k&S gaskets, and apparently runs it so easy, the leak wasnt noticed till ken had me whoop on it, so we're thinkin all that puttin around surely has to be carboned up, not one spot of carbon, anywhere, piston or exhaust port, and guess why...........
MAXIMA SUPER M !!!!!!!
heres your KLOTZ......................
All oils have very similar pictures waiting on someone's photobucket just like that. I'm sure someone has a picture of their piston they were running maxima M on looking just like that. I've had my topend on my blaster running Klotz in it for nearly a year with only one change of rings (after a hard weekend at busco) and I can still read the numbers printed on the top of my wiseco. It has the normal carbon all oils deposit as they burn blackened the aluminum but not more.
And don't go saying that maxima super M doesn't leave deposits... if it smokes out the tail pipe, it deposits inside the engine. Perhaps on certain engines under certain circumstances it doesn't show up (paulie I don't want to see another picture of your alky 400 piston) but it's still there even if the fuel burns clean enough for it not to stick.
And don't go saying that maxima super M doesn't leave deposits... if it smokes out the tail pipe, it deposits inside the engine. Perhaps on certain engines under certain circumstances it doesn't show up (paulie I don't want to see another picture of your alky 400 piston) but it's still there even if the fuel burns clean enough for it not to stick.
exactly a picture of a damaged piston does nothing for me, to many variables to say it was the oils fault,
could have been poor fuel, impropper jetting, dirty carb, flaw in the piston or flaw in the rings, piston could have expanded to fast, or cold seised, to much to factor in...
seen a buddys turbo integra rip the side of two pistons apart just below the rings they looks machined, not like a normal break would look, that was on a safe tune for break in, low boost, factory defect pistons from a high end piston company.. running royal purple oil.. and been runing royal purple in that car for 4 years.. car has been as high as just shy of 500 whp
could have been poor fuel, impropper jetting, dirty carb, flaw in the piston or flaw in the rings, piston could have expanded to fast, or cold seised, to much to factor in...
seen a buddys turbo integra rip the side of two pistons apart just below the rings they looks machined, not like a normal break would look, that was on a safe tune for break in, low boost, factory defect pistons from a high end piston company.. running royal purple oil.. and been runing royal purple in that car for 4 years.. car has been as high as just shy of 500 whp
just seems awful funny, i run maxima in a bone stock,oil injected bike for 8 years, and sale it with the good compression stock piston still in it, then run maxima in my ken oconnor motors (2), then swirch to this "magical blend klotz" and bam, big troubles within the 2nd bottle, switch back to maxima and throw another 3 months on it so far ?????????? we'll see how many more i get out of it when spring comes
like i said, my vast experience with maxima, and short one with klotz,
makes the decision a no brainer !!!
like i said, my vast experience with maxima, and short one with klotz,
makes the decision a no brainer !!!
Piston pic dont fear me. I will continue to run Klotz on every engine i own that smokes!! I see Klotz run motors all the time at my best friends ATV shop and most are in great shape. Every oil will have horror pics and stories. Last piston i pulled i used a paper towel to remove the deposits on the piston. Most of the high dollar oils will do a great job as well as some of the cheaper brands. My preferance is synthetic oil in my bikes , cars, trucks, mowers no matter who makes it.
I used Amsoil hp injecor when i still had the injector and it worked great, when i pulled it there was carboning on the top of the piston and some on the head, exhaust port was pretty clean
Last banshee we had was over 7 years on the 404kit. Seen more hours than most peoples on here. Ran at the same jetting in the summer and winter. Ran every kind of oil in the premix. Sold it with 120 psi. Some engines will last, others will break. Sometimes it is random.
50:1 means 50 parts gas for every 1 part oil.
32:1 is more rich than 50:1. I use 32:1 on my blaster.
32:1 is more rich than 50:1. I use 32:1 on my blaster.
