Possible Awk's hydro rear park brake

[tbrooks]

So I'm getting ready to get some of awks brakes and I asked him what I could do for a park brake when I got em. He had a few ideas, but nothing he had actually tried. So this is what I figured out. Won't get to actually try it for a few weeks, but wanted some more input and ideas.

I got a 1/2 inch by 1 1/2 inch bolt and lock nut, and then another 1/2 inch nut I cut in half with my sawzall. The bolt fits a little loosely in the holes for the split barrel and I don't planning on tightening to tight so it can rotate slightly as the pedal moves, hence the locknut. I haven't got it drilled yet but I'm gonna drill a 3/16 hole to run the cable through the bolt and loop it back through again and lock between the 2 (half) nuts in the center. Its gonna be a tight fit between the bar that holds the cable guide and the swingarm mount. As is now I will need to either put a spacer between the pedal and foot peg or shave a little off the head of the bolt. I have to re-check the clearance on the swingarm mount to see which works best. Now I realized and AWK confirmed, after I came up with this that with my stock front cable brakes, they will lock when the park brake is engaged, but this with awks brakes will guarantee it doesn't move! At least I hope so lol. So what do you guys think of my redneck engineering lol

 

[Bluesman]

So...... If I understand this correctly, you are going to use the front brake lever park brake cable to pull on the rear brake pedal and hydraulically apply the rear brake? If that's the case, with the length of the arm needed to be welded onto the 88-02 rear brake pedal for the master cylinder, and how short the arm that you're attaching the cable to is, you're not going to have enough mechanical advantage to do squat. I give you an A for ingenuity, but I'm pretty sure it's going to fail miserably.

 

[Fast6hand]

Why not just get something to wedge between the pedal and frame to apply pressure to the caliper. Simple and effective.

 

[tbrooks]

So...... If I understand this correctly, you are going to use the front brake lever park brake cable to pull on the rear brake pedal and hydraulically apply the rear brake? If that's the case, with the length of the arm needed to be welded onto the 88-02 rear brake pedal for the master cylinder, and how short the arm that you're attaching the cable to is, you're not going to have enough mechanical advantage to do squat. I give you an A for ingenuity, but I'm pretty sure it's going to fail miserably.

Actually I already knew that and had just planned on pushing the brake with my foot and then setting the park brake, that way the cable system doesn't actuate the brake, just holds it. It should be strong enough as long as everything is adjusted properly

Why not just get something to wedge between the pedal and frame to apply pressure to the caliper. Simple and effective.

And I could just stick a piece of wood in front of the tire, but I'd rather have something that is secure without hauling extra stuff around

 

[Awk08]

So...... If I understand this correctly, you are going to use the front brake lever park brake cable to pull on the rear brake pedal and hydraulically apply the rear brake? If that's the case, with the length of the arm needed to be welded onto the 88-02 rear brake pedal for the master cylinder, and how short the arm that you're attaching the cable to is, you're not going to have enough mechanical advantage to do squat. I give you an A for ingenuity, but I'm pretty sure it's going to fail miserably.

I can push my brake pedal with 1 finger and lock up the brakes to stop from full speed, and pedal travel is all but none, they work off varying amounts of light to medium pressure applied to the pedal, not pedal travel,
so it may not take much cable pull to apply the brakes ?
but i am concerned about the cable not being connected to anything directly in front of the pedal connection,
as the clutch cable is, hindering it's effectiveness.

i'm also not sure about what kind of hills these guys are stopping on ?
yet some insist on trying to retain the park brake.
everything i ride is mountains/incline, and i havent missed my parking brake at all, since running these brakes for the last 5-6 seasons

all this could just be a temporary experiment, as the next move is usually front hydro's too, which eliminates the cables all together.

 

[tbrooks]

but i am concerned about the cable not being connected to anything directly in front of the pedal connection,
as the clutch cable is, hindering it's effectiveness.
everything i ride is mountains/incline, and i havent missed my parking brake at all, since running these brakes for the last 5-6 seasons

all this could just be a temporary experiment, as the next move is usually front hydro's too, which eliminates the cables all together.

I was wondering about that as well, if I would need to put something on the cable guide to hold the end of the cable sheathing?
Part of my reason for wanting a good park brake is also for transporting, as it will be on curvy hilly mountain roads, and it would be nice to not need to strap it.
Once I'm finished with this build, that will be the end of my upgrades unless there is just something I really can't live with. Like possibly the crap stock shocks. My mod bug will be shifting gears to the property I'm getting, my father-in-laws place, my mom's place, and hopefully the pontoon boat I wanna build/rebuild. I've always got a very long list of projects to do!

 

[Blaaster]

Part of my reason for wanting a good park brake is also for transporting, as it will be on curvy hilly mountain roads, and it would be nice to not need to strap it.

A word of advice from a silly old fart, never rely on just a park brake to stop a bike wandering when you transport it.

Tyres have a great habit of breaking traction on bumps, bends and inclines!

 

[Awk08]

it would be nice to not need to strap it.
!

never haul anything without being strapped down !
and it might even be illegal

 

[BlasterFun484]

My 454 arctic cat has a pretty easy parking brake design. You press the hydraulic foot lever in as ud hit the brake than while pressed you reach down n pysh over an "L" shaped lever preventing it to come back up, the return spring pulls it up against the "L" latch bar, effen simply over/under thought solution. I can prob grab pics in a few days if it would help