Ok 1995 sorry for the off topic.... well not really off topic i just like to stir up my brutha!!
Please Help Going on a big ride but bike dont run right!!
- Thread starter 1995blaster
- Start date
Nothing started out at a 310 and down to a 280, and NOTHING it cant be jetting. it cuts out on the topend starts fine and good in bottom end but cuts out horrible on the topend.
I switched from the vitos needle to the stock needle to take that out to eliminate that. Btw, its on the middle clip.
Well, i have noticed that gas is pouring out of the overflow, gonna assume the float is sticking. Gonna do a good cleaning on the carb tommorow. BUT if i dont get my bike running tommorow i cant go.
I peck on the carb and the gas stops coming out so its probably sticking, it may be sticking while riding causing me to run rich no matter what main jet im running?
Also if i can get it to revv fine ill do a plug chop and do jetting right there.
Maybe i should run some reed stops with this to see?
SOMEONE GOTTA ANSWER!?!?!?!?!
I switched from the vitos needle to the stock needle to take that out to eliminate that. Btw, its on the middle clip.
Well, i have noticed that gas is pouring out of the overflow, gonna assume the float is sticking. Gonna do a good cleaning on the carb tommorow. BUT if i dont get my bike running tommorow i cant go.
I peck on the carb and the gas stops coming out so its probably sticking, it may be sticking while riding causing me to run rich no matter what main jet im running?
Also if i can get it to revv fine ill do a plug chop and do jetting right there.
Maybe i should run some reed stops with this to see?
SOMEONE GOTTA ANSWER!?!?!?!?!
omg u guys crack me up I:I, i dunno 95, rad valve ran great on my bike, we have all seen the vids of it on my stock stroked/ported jug pickin on the 4 pokes and without reed stops. awk is right about the jetting, even with more motor work the our jetting was still virtually identical.
Nothing like changing $hit up just before a ride with no time to test. How does plug look? Check all grounds, be sure coil is grounding good. Trim 1/4 off coil wire, try different plug cap. Try new plug.
Sticking float, even intermittently, will negate ANY jetting changes. Go back to the main you know was working last and clean out that needle and seat (or replace it if necessary) and quit dribbling gas everywhere. You cannot do jetting without the proper float level set first. carb's 101!
Can i re use the existing coil boot? does it just pop off cut the wire and stick it back on?
Also what should the stock float level be at? I know where to measure since awk has a pic of it on his page.
Also what should the stock float level be at? I know where to measure since awk has a pic of it on his page.
@ Slick Its never done it before when i put the carb back on it did it and i just figured it was stuck from being tookin out. But when it did it the second time i knew something was off.
It was around 17mm could that cause it to flood out while running?
i just wanna ride so think i should just throw in the stock cage with reed stops? The reeds in it feel way better and just it should be easier to jet with it in there? The rad vavle doesnt have stops.
It was around 17mm could that cause it to flood out while running?
i just wanna ride so think i should just throw in the stock cage with reed stops? The reeds in it feel way better and just it should be easier to jet with it in there? The rad vavle doesnt have stops.
Your not suppose to use stops with the rad valve bro! I have one on right now with no problems, But if ya just can't seem to get it and that is the factor you changed then I'd go back to stock for now!I:I
Im not gonna put the stops on the valve just gonna go to the stock cage reeds and stop. So i can eliminate the reeds from being the problem
If you are flooding, changing the reeds is not going to do diddly.
The float is sticking or rubbing or there is crap in needle and seat assembly.\
If the float is at 17mm it should at 20mm or more..
The float is sticking or rubbing or there is crap in needle and seat assembly.\
If the float is at 17mm it should at 20mm or more..
The float is now right at 2 centimeters or 20mm, i have in the stock cage at a 290 main. Gonna try this in a few the silicone is drying so i can tighten everything up.
I'd let that dry overnight seroiusly! You better leaktest that too! or you'll be coming back from your ride by way of Nike express!
well the fuggin carb is still leaking. And ill check agian but its a quick dry silicone. But the carb is still fuggin leaking, i put the carb on wait a minute or 2 and boom starts coming out almost at a full flow.
Either rip down the shop for a new needle and seat ,or go to the library and pick a good book for the weekend 
But why would the needle and seat go bad? It never leaked before i changed main jet sizes and then all of a sudden its doing it now?
and after i peck on it the leak will stop.
and after i peck on it the leak will stop.
pull the carb again, pull the floats,
inspect the float valve rubber tip for rips/tears or other discombulations,
inspect the float valve the needle rides in for imperfections,
check the posts of the carb body, inside of where the pin goes thru, i found grooves on one once that was causing the float tang to hang up....filed the grooves out lightly and all was good
i'd also set the float height to 21mm while your in there
you did remove the float bowl gasket before measuring ????,
your measuring stick must be right where the gasket actually sits
and you only tilt the carb about 45 degrees, till the floats touch the needle's center pin, not push or close it
heres that pic again
inspect the float valve rubber tip for rips/tears or other discombulations,
inspect the float valve the needle rides in for imperfections,
check the posts of the carb body, inside of where the pin goes thru, i found grooves on one once that was causing the float tang to hang up....filed the grooves out lightly and all was good
i'd also set the float height to 21mm while your in there
you did remove the float bowl gasket before measuring ????,
your measuring stick must be right where the gasket actually sits
and you only tilt the carb about 45 degrees, till the floats touch the needle's center pin, not push or close it
heres that pic again
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