Hey guys. Already been helped on here with my tors. Things running pissa. Im debating the oil delete but leaning towards leaving alone. I already have the kits for both my 04 blasters. The guy i bought my quad off of gave me yamalube 10 w 40. What oil should i be using in my tranny? 10 w 30 or 40 or others. Just did a carb rebuild and tors delete. Had a 230 main jet that i swapped new. Has a fmf gold fatty and a sponge moose air filter. Everything else stock as far as i can tell. Any thoughts on jets? South of boston so elevation 100-200 ft. Im def a newbie looking for some trail ridding/buzzing around. Thanks in advance.
oil for transmission & jet thoughts
- Thread starter bluebullies1
- Start date
If the Yamalube is trans oil or says "Wet clutch compatible" it will be fine. Or are talking for mix/injector oil??
One thing for sure, a 230 main is way to small for a pipe and filter, unless you are riding at 5000' asl.
List all known engine mods, elevation, and average temps you will be riding at so we can get you a safe starting point. Probably be in 280/290 range.
Strongly suggest not riding until jetting is sorted out.
Or your next thread will be "Why is there a hole in my piston?"
One thing for sure, a 230 main is way to small for a pipe and filter, unless you are riding at 5000' asl.
List all known engine mods, elevation, and average temps you will be riding at so we can get you a safe starting point. Probably be in 280/290 range.
Strongly suggest not riding until jetting is sorted out.
Or your next thread will be "Why is there a hole in my piston?"
I have listed mods above. Avg temp will be 90 degrees humid ova the summer. It ran when i bought it and runs aftet carb/tors delete.
Just because it runs doesn't mean the jetting is right. In fact, they run GREAT when lean. They always run the best just before they blow up.
Ya, noticed that after I posted, but was also double checking that nothing was left out, such as you don't mention wether you run air box lid and/or snorkle. <Those two right there are worth at least one size difference alone.
EVERYTHING is important and makes a difference.
Leave the oil injection on it is very reliable if cared for.
Plug chop a #290 main jet, if the lid is off maybe a #300.
Plug chop a #290 main jet, if the lid is off maybe a #300.
Stock i think. Has the rubber boot to carb. 6 sm nuts on studs thru the rear plastic. Sponge air filter moose, all i know of it. Thinking about maybe keeping on for dust reasons intead of k & n type/snorkle. No lid just seat if thats what u meant.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
