i know there is pics on thr tors removal but i have an 06 and from what i am understanding its a little diffrent.....is there a way i can just unplug the whols system and it will still start and ride? and if there is were is the system and what does the thread suggest to do ?
o6 tors removal help
- Thread starter yamha23
- Start date
unless you are having problems with it or are changing to a diff carb id just leave it alone.....my .02
because i went riding last week everything was going fine i was riding for about 2 hours...i was on my way back from the trail i took the the streets and opened the quad up full speed for a good 5 - 10 min i stoped at a light to wait for ppl to catch up and the quad just shut off i started it back up it shut off again..then i pulled out the choke and it started put i had to keep giving it gas when i put it in gear it was studdering the whole way back...any 1 have any ideas what this could be i have an 06 blaster with toomey pipes and jetted stock carb?
Someone correct me if im wrong, but could this be because you have lost compression or your engine was baking hot?
I dont think it can be the tors, because if there was a problem with it this would just shut your quad of and not allow it to start up with or with out the choke on.
try unplugging the wire going to the parking brake...sometimes those mess up and act like a rev limiter
i just dont get what could of happen it was working fine once i hit the street and stoped at the light thats when it started acting up it was like studdering it would go then it would stop like no gas was going to the engine then it would jump again like gas hit the engine...maybe my main jet is clogged?
take ur carb off and clean it all and see what happens, also when you unhook your fuel leave it on when you take it off teh carb and see if gas comes out, petcock could be dirty.
^^Agreed^^ Clean your fuel system out first, and see what happens. However, I'm inclined to think that you have a bad parking brake switch on the handlebars. This switch is tied in with the TORS system, and if it fails, the engine will still start/run, but it won't rev properly. Such a problem will usually start all of a sudden, as electrical switches seem to pick the worst possible times to take a sh*t. X(
If you do opt to take out the TORS, this is fine, but do it one cautious step at a time. Clip out the throttle and park brake switches, unhook the leads from the carburetor cap, and tape up all the hanging plugs. You can peel apart the wiring harness and cut out all the TORS wiring at the actual crimp fittings, but this is a lot of work. I did it no prob, but not everybody feels comfortable ripping out wires. This 19-year-old kid must be the exception.
2003-and-newer Blasters have a unitized CDI box/TORS relay under the hood, instead of the two separate boxes used on older models. Once you get the TORS switches and wiring out (or taped-up), find the green wire coming out from the stator plate. These five-wire stators are used on the newer Blastys, as opposed to the four-wire units on pre-2003 machines. Anyways, unplug the green lead and ground it out against the chassis or engine. The ignition coil mounting bracket makes for a handy ground, but any paint-free surface will do. This extra green stator wire sends an electrical pulse, or 'signal', to the TORS control box. Grounding out the green wire neutralizes the signal pulse and allows the ignition to fire normally without the TORS circuit in use.
^^Agreed^^ Clean your fuel system out first, and see what happens. However, I'm inclined to think that you have a bad parking brake switch on the handlebars. This switch is tied in with the TORS system, and if it fails, the engine will still start/run, but it won't rev properly. Such a problem will usually start all of a sudden, as electrical switches seem to pick the worst possible times to take a sh*t. X(
If you do opt to take out the TORS, this is fine, but do it one cautious step at a time. Clip out the throttle and park brake switches, unhook the leads from the carburetor cap, and tape up all the hanging plugs. You can peel apart the wiring harness and cut out all the TORS wiring at the actual crimp fittings, but this is a lot of work. I did it no prob, but not everybody feels comfortable ripping out wires. This 19-year-old kid must be the exception.
2003-and-newer Blasters have a unitized CDI box/TORS relay under the hood, instead of the two separate boxes used on older models. Once you get the TORS switches and wiring out (or taped-up), find the green wire coming out from the stator plate. These five-wire stators are used on the newer Blastys, as opposed to the four-wire units on pre-2003 machines. Anyways, unplug the green lead and ground it out against the chassis or engine. The ignition coil mounting bracket makes for a handy ground, but any paint-free surface will do. This extra green stator wire sends an electrical pulse, or 'signal', to the TORS control box. Grounding out the green wire neutralizes the signal pulse and allows the ignition to fire normally without the TORS circuit in use.
Good write-up... +rep
Hello i have 05 Blaster and theres only white/green wire and the others is that the wire what you mean?^^Agreed^^ Clean your fuel system out first, and see what happens. However, I'm inclined to think that you have a bad parking brake switch on the handlebars. This switch is tied in with the TORS system, and if it fails, the engine will still start/run, but it won't rev properly. Such a problem will usually start all of a sudden, as electrical switches seem to pick the worst possible times to take a sh*t. X(
If you do opt to take out the TORS, this is fine, but do it one cautious step at a time. Clip out the throttle and park brake switches, unhook the leads from the carburetor cap, and tape up all the hanging plugs. You can peel apart the wiring harness and cut out all the TORS wiring at the actual crimp fittings, but this is a lot of work. I did it no prob, but not everybody feels comfortable ripping out wires. This 19-year-old kid must be the exception.
2003-and-newer Blasters have a unitized CDI box/TORS relay under the hood, instead of the two separate boxes used on older models. Once you get the TORS switches and wiring out (or taped-up), find the green wire coming out from the stator plate. These five-wire stators are used on the newer Blastys, as opposed to the four-wire units on pre-2003 machines. Anyways, unplug the green lead and ground it out against the chassis or engine. The ignition coil mounting bracket makes for a handy ground, but any paint-free surface will do. This extra green stator wire sends an electrical pulse, or 'signal', to the TORS control box. Grounding out the green wire neutralizes the signal pulse and allows the ignition to fire normally without the TORS circuit in use.
heres an article i did to remove the tors and parking brake Etc, I:I
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/yamaha-blaster-wiring-20088/#post224633
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/yamaha-blaster-wiring-20088/#post224633
I have a 1995 I still have the tors on mine. I'm not sure if it's hooked up or not..
Bike seems to run fine but I'd like to disconect it if possible.
Is the wireing all I have to do or do u have to buy the tors removal kit.?
Bike seems to run fine but I'd like to disconect it if possible.
Is the wireing all I have to do or do u have to buy the tors removal kit.?
if it works and your not switching to an AM carb why take it off......you dont need a kit you can just unhook the wires but the kit will eliminate the tors box on top of the carb
