NOS
- Thread starter Antec1200X
- Start date
it sounds so crazy it might work
but ill talk to my brother i know he will want a bottle for sure.but not sure when
could be for his vmax/trans am or dirtbike
but ill talk to my brother i know he will want a bottle for sure.but not sure when
could be for his vmax/trans am or dirtbike
wow the guy that knows it all should know its illegal to ship a full nos bottle by mail or any type of shipping
therefore all the nitrous suppliers ship the bottles empty
NOS is nothing more than a high concentration of oxygen that is injected into the motor at very low temp and very high velocity. There are two basic systems, sprayed two different ways.
First is called a wet system. Where both the NOS gas and gasoline are mixed thru a fogger nozzle and are metered thru jets that look just like your main jet in your carb.
Then there are two ways to spray it. Pre and Post carb. It's all a matter of preference.
Spraying it between the carb and the engine offers a higher percentage of accuracy when it comes to HP increase, cause the exact amount of NOS and fuel you step up to is whats being sprayed into the motor. Spraying it thru the carb increases velocity over the emulsion tube, thus causing the carb to draw more fuel making the total mixture richer. This is good especially in an air cooled motor like the Blaster but jetting kinda gets tricky if your are looking for the optimum O2 content.
I find that the BIGGER the shot, the further you need it away from the reeds in a two stroke. The sub zero temps make the reeds cold and hard and less flexible. 4 strokes are less effected by location of the nozzle.
The other type of system (as you might have guessed) is called a dry system (Boondockers). Where NOS is spray directly into the motor thru the carb. These types of systems require that a certain amount of NOS is injected into the float bowl thru the vents causing it to "inject" more fuel into the motor forcibly thru the emulsion tube at the jetted/needled amounts. The carb acts like the fogger on the wet system and mixes the two gases systematically and measurably. They are easy to setup and are pretty fool proof, but dont develop quite the HP the wet system can.
I only use wet systems (NOS and NX "Nitrous Express") and I only spray thru the carbs. It's safest setup there is.
The gas in the bottle needs to maintain a bottle pressure of 800-950 psi. In colder climates (air temps below 70), it might be necessary to heat the bottle to keep the bottle pressure up. They make bottle warmers that run on your 12v battery. Now some companies have been successful in developing high volume bottle valves for shots less then 50hp and by removing the siphon tube in the bottle you can run pressures down to 600 psi as well as stepping up to the next AN hose size between the bottle and solenoid.
Keys to successful NOS systems:
1. Keep the hoses between your solenoids and fogger as short as possible.
2. Keep bottle pressure up
3. Follow the recommended jetting from the mfg.
Here are some pics of my 400ex
I have mounted on the carb a micro switch that is activated only when the throttle is wide open. To activate the system, I wired the head light switch to HIGH beams. I run a 2lb bottle and 25 shot. It's good for about 8 full passes up the big hill. Ive had it on the bike now for 3 years, never rebuilt the motor.
Here are a couple other bikes Ive done NOS systems on. These are sneaker setups where I built a custom air box that holds the NOS bottle so that nobody knows your spraying.
YFZ running a 35 shot
Raptor running a 40 shot, dual foggers
Here is a banshee running a 50 shot, dual foggers
First is called a wet system. Where both the NOS gas and gasoline are mixed thru a fogger nozzle and are metered thru jets that look just like your main jet in your carb.
Then there are two ways to spray it. Pre and Post carb. It's all a matter of preference.
Spraying it between the carb and the engine offers a higher percentage of accuracy when it comes to HP increase, cause the exact amount of NOS and fuel you step up to is whats being sprayed into the motor. Spraying it thru the carb increases velocity over the emulsion tube, thus causing the carb to draw more fuel making the total mixture richer. This is good especially in an air cooled motor like the Blaster but jetting kinda gets tricky if your are looking for the optimum O2 content.
I find that the BIGGER the shot, the further you need it away from the reeds in a two stroke. The sub zero temps make the reeds cold and hard and less flexible. 4 strokes are less effected by location of the nozzle.
The other type of system (as you might have guessed) is called a dry system (Boondockers). Where NOS is spray directly into the motor thru the carb. These types of systems require that a certain amount of NOS is injected into the float bowl thru the vents causing it to "inject" more fuel into the motor forcibly thru the emulsion tube at the jetted/needled amounts. The carb acts like the fogger on the wet system and mixes the two gases systematically and measurably. They are easy to setup and are pretty fool proof, but dont develop quite the HP the wet system can.
I only use wet systems (NOS and NX "Nitrous Express") and I only spray thru the carbs. It's safest setup there is.
The gas in the bottle needs to maintain a bottle pressure of 800-950 psi. In colder climates (air temps below 70), it might be necessary to heat the bottle to keep the bottle pressure up. They make bottle warmers that run on your 12v battery. Now some companies have been successful in developing high volume bottle valves for shots less then 50hp and by removing the siphon tube in the bottle you can run pressures down to 600 psi as well as stepping up to the next AN hose size between the bottle and solenoid.
Keys to successful NOS systems:
1. Keep the hoses between your solenoids and fogger as short as possible.
2. Keep bottle pressure up
3. Follow the recommended jetting from the mfg.
Here are some pics of my 400ex
I have mounted on the carb a micro switch that is activated only when the throttle is wide open. To activate the system, I wired the head light switch to HIGH beams. I run a 2lb bottle and 25 shot. It's good for about 8 full passes up the big hill. Ive had it on the bike now for 3 years, never rebuilt the motor.
Here are a couple other bikes Ive done NOS systems on. These are sneaker setups where I built a custom air box that holds the NOS bottle so that nobody knows your spraying.
YFZ running a 35 shot
Raptor running a 40 shot, dual foggers
Here is a banshee running a 50 shot, dual foggers
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dry systems are not designed to be injected into a carb float bowl by any means that style is designed for fuel injected engines where the extra fuel thats needed is added by way of the fuel injectors if u inject 900 psi of nitrous into the float bowls all ur gonna do is blow apart the needle and seat. i do not suggest trying this or taking that advice by any means!!!!!
Next time your down to the oregon dunes, hit me up and ill hook you up with a 30lb bottle for like $75. Thats good for a lot of gravity refills.
incorrect. go read the boondockers website. the NOS is metered way down to just pressurize the float bowl slightly forcing fuel thru the emulsion tube.
NEVER at any time do you want to just spray NOS into a motor without adding additional fuel with it.
NOS is not that tricky if you just learn all about the system your gonna install.
considering ive worked closely with some of the biggest nitrous pioneers in the nos industry and have over 25 plus years experience using it im gonna tell u that spraying it into the carb float bowls is definately not safe nor was it designed for that type of use
in case ur wondering who ive worked with mike thermos from nitrous oxide systems better known as nos. steve johnson who is a close friend of mine from edelbrock nitrous systems and monty smith from nos just to name a few. boondockers is not considered a top level nitrous company either btw
back in the day when I did the YFZ setup, the bike already had a battery charging issue. I spoke with Ricky Stator and they didnt have an answer just yet, cause the problem lied in the stator itself.
The early YFZ's had only 2 charging coils on the stator to charge the battery, as the motor, lights and cooling fan all ran when the motor was running, so there were 6 coils for that.
So the mad scientist (my buddy Indian Gende) and I came up with an idea. We needed to wire the system so that with just the flip of switch, you could activate the NOS system. So we wired both the high and low beams together and ran them from the low beam switch setting. We then took the high beam circuit and made our own rectifier from a relay and diode (we though was really crude at the time, but I had the parts in the shop and it worked) thus converting AC to DC and ran that extra charging juice back the battery and the NOS electrical system. We were able to pick up 6 full addtional amps (more than was necessary to run the fuel pump and solenoids), plus do a better job of charging the battery.
On the banshee, we did the exact same thing. We installed the micro switch under the thumb throttle cover and our own rectifier on the high beam circuit to charge the battery and run the NOS system.
Funny thing is I sent this wiring diagram to Ricky and Hmmmm, 2 months later they were selling a similar plug and play setup that essentially did the same thing. Never a thanks, but I was amused none the less.
now that high beam idea i really like and brando had the idea of using the tors switch thats allready in the thumb throttle assembly for the micro switch
Im not doubting your experience, but rather stating how their system are designed.
If you would have read my entire post, you would have noticed that I gave them credit for a rather simple design (albeit not as efficient), but my preference has always been with wet NOS or NX systems.
I too have been spraying NOS for 20+ years. I run a 12.5 second (1984) honda civic (JDM B16a) on Friday nights here locally as well as road race it in 12-24 hour enduros and only after I got into building hot rod sand bikes in 1993 did I start putting them on atv's.
Here's my Friday night ride. Not as fast as your 442 Im sure.
Ive done a few systems in my days and blown enough motors to know what works safely and what doesnt.
the banshee was an old skol model with no TORS in the throttle, so we had to improvise. with internal slide carbs there is no place to mount the switch, except a push button and thats not very sneaky hanging on the handle bars for everyone to see.
Frankly tho, the NOS bottle mounted up under the front plastics wasnt very sneaky either, but he wanted to run all day with a BIG shot, so we had to use a 2.5 lb bottle
Im not doubting your experience, but rather stating how their system are designed.
If you would have read my entire post, you would have noticed that I gave them credit for a rather simple design (albeit not as efficient), but my preference has always been with wet NOS or NX systems.
I too have been spraying NOS for 20+ years. I run a 12.5 second (1984) honda civic (JDM B16a) on Friday nights here locally as well as road race it in 12-24 hour enduros and only after I got into building hot rod sand bikes in 1993 did I start putting them on atv's.
Here's my Friday night ride. Not as fast as your 442 Im sure.
Ive done a few systems in my days and blown enough motors to know what works safely and what doesnt.
i read the whole post and seen that your prefered method is a wet kit i was just stating i dont agree that the float bowl method is a good idea or a method i would recomend is all. those atv installs are very nice and clean !looking btw !! mines gone 7.58 as it sits in that picture
