Hi guys I'm new to this and this is my first two stroke but I have been a round them so I have a good understanding of them but I'm confused now. I have an 01 blaster bored. 030 over New top an bottom end. I have a stock carb from an 03 with a 230 main jet. I am also using the stock air box no mod. It ran fine until I took it apart and cleaned the carb because the float got stuck..I adjusted the floats t 20.00mm and have the air screw 1/1/2 out stock settings.Idk what the pilot jet is I believe it is stock because it came of a stock 03. There is a pipe on it but I believe it's just the silencer because the headline looks like the stock one. After I cleaned the carb an put it back on it fired up on the 3rd kick stayed idling for about Two minutes and then died and won't start back up..at first it like fired pinged twice like it was trying to run then died. Now it doesn't even seem like it wants to start. Its getting gas the plug is soaked when I take it out after 5 kicks...I have tryed several new blush the br8es and the b8es. I even try to start it with starting fluid and still nothing which is why I think there's no spaek. Any suggestions would help thanks
no spark or too rich? 01 blaster
- Thread starter finetuning60
- Start date
Do not use starting fluid. I can tell you, that the jetting is off. Depends on what is done to the quad and elevation. Have you leak tested your blaster? To test for spark, take the plug out of the engine, put the plug in the coil and place the end of the plug on top of the engine. Must be touching metal. Kick and see if there is spark.
Check that there're is spark as above.
Continually kicking it may have just flooded it.
Remove the plug, drain the carb. Hold the throttle wide open and kick until your leg is sore.
Put in a new plug and try again.
Continually kicking it may have just flooded it.
Remove the plug, drain the carb. Hold the throttle wide open and kick until your leg is sore.
Put in a new plug and try again.
make sure you put carb boots back on tight and aligned,and top of carb is tight ect,if it was okay before you removed the carb then maybe do it again inspect or you may have another issue
if you got a compression tester do that to,check reeds,free flowing fuel from tank to carb
if you got any pics maybe post them.....
if you got a compression tester do that to,check reeds,free flowing fuel from tank to carb
if you got any pics maybe post them.....
Do not over tighten the carb boot and reed block as they are prone to warpage if over tightened, 5.8 ft lbs is enough.
I do have spark..plenty I checked that last night. I took the carb of aboutb8btimes now and checked everything..I will post pics tmrw..I did try kicking it with the plug out and too. Carb is tight I did lose the air screw spring but I did put another one from a pen about the same size would that make a difference but I still had it idling for 2mins with that spring
I got it running vball today had a good ping sound most of the time but it sounded a lol off an I couldn't get past 3rd gear..on my way back I started leaking gas out of the overflow on the carb but I was only at 1/2 turns out. Does that mean I'm to rich? Or adjusted the floats wrong? I set them at 20mm. The carb is spotless. I just cleaned it..I'm getting an air filter Wed should I get jets? I also believe that when I started to lean it out it got better an stopped leaking from what I can see
Leaking fuel from an overflow means either the needle and seat is not restricting the flow, or the float level is incorrect or sticking!
Reading that the air screw is only 1/2 turn out, you did not set the idle as per specs or hav an air leak that you are trying to cover up.
Are you running it without an air filter, as that will throw the jetting way out?
Reading that the air screw is only 1/2 turn out, you did not set the idle as per specs or hav an air leak that you are trying to cover up.
Are you running it without an air filter, as that will throw the jetting way out?
Okay I got it running and tuned to about 1/4 throttle. Then it starts to bogg out at 1/2 to full... do I need to jet it or check needle maybe rich in it? It has a 230 jetting it with pipe but only slip on I don't think header is aftermarket looks like stock
you really need to compression test it,cuz if it is low on compression you will be messing with your carb for another year trying to figure out why it wont rundisconnect the tors unit on it the proper way....report back and give us pics
try to rent a comp tester, or fork over 30 bucks at a auto store...
what was the real reason you took apart it to clean? you maybe miss diagnosing it as well as me too lol.
maybe list everything you have done to this blaster since you have had it
is the throttle slide going all the way up in carb? check it
1 1/2 turns out is 540 degrees from fully seated,idle is under seat on top,have you try adjusting your carb when it is running?
disconnect the tors unit on it the proper way....report back and give us pics try to rent a comp tester, or fork over 30 bucks at a auto store...
what was the real reason you took apart it to clean? you maybe miss diagnosing it as well as me too lol.
maybe list everything you have done to this blaster since you have had it
is the throttle slide going all the way up in carb? check it
1 1/2 turns out is 540 degrees from fully seated,idle is under seat on top,have you try adjusting your carb when it is running?
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You need to leak test as well, or you will fry your piston. I made my reed boot leak from taking my carb in and out. It works best if you can remove the boot on the air filter side and then slide the carb out of the reed boot to minimize flexing it
