i am working on my buddys 95 blaster it lost spark and now i cant fgure i out i went through the test in the manual and everything was ok but the primary coil under the flywheel. just got done with that and still no spark. what else should i look for i dont like being wrong on stuff cause it cost money thats not mine so kinda bummed about it i checked the wiring harness too and it seems ok it also had a diffrent carb with no oil tank if tha helps thanks in advance doug
no spark need help please
- Thread starter rugabugadouglas
- Start date
just been through this same thing, swapped all parts onto my bike, fired right up everytime, i finally found 2 wires making contact inside the wire harness, due to water in it, someone had hacked it up before me ????
but definately check the 2 ground locations, 1 on the voltage regulator, and 1 at the coil mount
if all other things are checking out to the spec ohms, i'd point the finger at the cdi box
but first check for a voltage pulse coming outta the stator on the white/red wire, and at the coil on the orange wire
if you have pulse at the stator, but not cdi = wire harness broken/chaffed shorted wire
if you have pulse at the cdi, but not coming out on the orange wire = bad cdi
if you have a pulse at the coil (orange wire) but no spark = bad coil/ wire/ boot
but definately check the 2 ground locations, 1 on the voltage regulator, and 1 at the coil mount
if all other things are checking out to the spec ohms, i'd point the finger at the cdi box
but first check for a voltage pulse coming outta the stator on the white/red wire, and at the coil on the orange wire
if you have pulse at the stator, but not cdi = wire harness broken/chaffed shorted wire
if you have pulse at the cdi, but not coming out on the orange wire = bad cdi
if you have a pulse at the coil (orange wire) but no spark = bad coil/ wire/ boot
Nice AWK. Personally, I'm a wire by wire type of guy, but this is a nice quick check. I'm assuming you mean with a test light.
I would add to it that is there is no pulse at all, checking the resistance of the coils is next, and don't forget that the flywheel key can shear, giving no spark generation.
the ohm on it was a litle low and didnt get any volt out of it so thats why i started there ill have to check out the orange wire when i get a chance got the kids tonight maybe tommorrow night
Cool, so you've already ohmmed the coils. Being low COULD be the problem, a low resistance could mean an internal short of the coil, significantly reducing output potential. Unfortunately, thats not a sure thing, so check everything else too before replacing the source coil. Seems like this would give you a weak spark instead of no spark.
Personally, I've lately seen a loose flywheel nut that caused the key to shear and then the flywheel spun on the shaft. Worth a couple mins to check.
According to the manual, when everything else is good, change the cdi. It would be nice to swap out a known good one from a buddies bike if possible.
Personally, I've lately seen a loose flywheel nut that caused the key to shear and then the flywheel spun on the shaft. Worth a couple mins to check.
According to the manual, when everything else is good, change the cdi. It would be nice to swap out a known good one from a buddies bike if possible.
got it figured out the white with red tracer wire was broke must've broke completly when i pulled off the stator. now i just need to clean the carb it doesnt want to rev up just idle prolly dirty from sitting for almost a year now thanks for the help everyone
Cool, glad you found it. Is the different carb a new thing? Idling nice but not revving (like there is a rev limiter) is a classic TORS symptom. Make sure the throttle switch has been disconnected. Better yet, disconnect the blk/wht wire from the TORS box under the hood.
no its a old thing it acts like it does kinda have a rev limiter i checked its unhooked it just boggs down when you it the gas like it would when you hit the kill switch at a higher han idle rpm
So you HAVE disconnected the TORS? (unplugged throttle switch on handlebars) Maybe I'm assuming something here, you said it had a diff carb but not what it was. Is it a stock-style carb with the TORS switch box on top? If so you need to unplug that too.
no its a mikuni carb it ran good when i owned it but now not so good lol how easy would it be for the key to be wore down on the flywheel alsmost sounds like its a few degrees off time but i dont know im not much of a 2 stroke guy more of a honda atc guy hate to say it but love the power that blaster has any more help would be great i would like the space back in my garage thanks again
Hmm, Anything is possible I guess, but it seems unlikely that even a couple degrees retarded would cause what you are describing. Maybe you are back to that primary coil. Was that the primary side of the igniton coil? Weak spark would be the result of that.
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