No clutch

07EigerRider

New Member
Feb 23, 2009
653
2
0
Austintown, OH
I was riding the other day and my clutch got loose, like i had to pull the handle back about 80% to get the clutch to slip. Yesterday, I was riding and now the handle is loose from all the way released to all the way to the bars. I looked, the part the cable connects to on the motor still gets moved when i move the handle, it just doesnt have tension and the clutch is always engaged. Could my cable just be stretched or is it internal?
 
there should be a piece that acts almost like a washer that fits snug under 1 of the 4 bolts that holds your jug to the crankcase it may have broke or the bolt came loose. if not check on the handle bars for tightening. never had a cable stretch on me yet so i wouldnt know about that and yes it may be internal
 
I know what your talking about, the piece that holds the cable tight. It may be that, the way it had some clutch and now none it might be that. I had it just shy from coming unscrewed from the lever, so thats not it. I hope its not internal
 
The problem may be internal all right, but perhaps only within the cable itself. Those clutch cables use several thin steel wires braided together into one large wire. With age and normal use, the inner wire can start to pop, one strand at a time, until it either breaks or comes apart to the point that it just stretches and can't exert any pull on the clutch arm.

I'd do this: Unhook the clutch cable from its anchor on the clutch actuator arm, and tie it up out of the way. Then, raise the back end of your Blaster off the ground. Chock the front wheels. Start the engine, and use a pair of Channel-Lock pliers to manually pull in the clutch lever, mimicking the normal travel of the cable. With the engine idling in 1st gear, the clutch should disengage when you 'pull in' the clutch arm with the pliers. If it does, and the rear wheels stop turning, you've just got a problem with the clutch cable.

In the event that the clutch does not release, you'll have to take off the RH engine side cover to investigate further. The good news is, either way things turn out, you WILL NOT have to split the engine case halves. Hope this helps! I:I

BTW, Project Blaster now offers a Magura hydraulic clutch kit for the Blaster, which does away with the whole cable-operated system. If you've got about $ 250.00 on hand, it is a great upgrade...
 
The problem may be internal all right, but perhaps only within the cable itself. Those clutch cables use several thin steel wires braided together into one large wire. With age and normal use, the inner wire can start to pop, one strand at a time, until it either breaks or comes apart to the point that it just stretches and can't exert any pull on the clutch arm.

I'd do this: Unhook the clutch cable from its anchor on the clutch actuator arm, and tie it up out of the way. Then, raise the back end of your Blaster off the ground. Chock the front wheels. Start the engine, and use a pair of Channel-Lock pliers to manually pull in the clutch lever, mimicking the normal travel of the cable. With the engine idling in 1st gear, the clutch should disengage when you 'pull in' the clutch arm with the pliers. If it does, and the rear wheels stop turning, you've just got a problem with the clutch cable.

In the event that the clutch does not release, you'll have to take off the RH engine side cover to investigate further. The good news is, either way things turn out, you WILL NOT have to split the engine case halves. Hope this helps! I:I

BTW, Project Blaster now offers a Magura hydraulic clutch kit for the Blaster, which does away with the whole cable-operated system. If you've got about $ 250.00 on hand, it is a great upgrade...

RMATV sells the magura for $199. Don't waste your money on PB stuff.IMO
 
Well its not the cable. Damn it. Ill pull it apart sometime soon and look. What exactly am I looking for in there? Worn plates, loose stuff, what?

You will want to look for all of those things, really. Weak or broken springs, worn-out clutch plates, physically-damaged parts... All of these can lead to poor clutch performance. I'd be sure to check the clutch pushrod, as it can fail and lead to erratic clutch op. If the pushrod is OK, there is an adjustment for it located in the center of the outer pressure plate. This adjuster consists of a Torx bolt with a jam nut. Sometimes you can compensate for too much or too little free-play in the clutch actuator arm with this internal clutch adjuster.

If you take off the side cover and can't find anything broken or damaged in there, you probably need a clutch kit. Any good clutch kit comes complete with all new plates and springs. Put one in, re-adjust it, and that's it! Good Luck! I:I