Newbies with several questions...

[troyleming]

Hi guys! My 14 year old Son just got a 2000 Blaster last night and we have been working on getting it running today.

I have been looking at the downloadable manual and it shows the standard plug as being the NGK B8ES (If I remember correctly)....The plug in the bike now is a NGK R BCPR5ES11??? Is this even the correct plug? I am pretty sure it is fouled... I am planning on buying a new plug tomorrow and would like to know what plug is best...Not looking for racing quality, just something that will be dependable!

Also the baffle is missing from the spark arrestor and will it be OK to try and get the bike running without it or will it not have the proper back pressure?

It has a DG front pipe but the factory stock muffler...Is there a cheap spark arrestor that has good quality? This is my Son's project so he is mowing lawns and doing home projects to fund it...

The air filter is missing and we are planning on getting a replacement for that but can we at least try to get it running without it? We certainly don't want to hurt anything just trying to get it running...

The stator cover is missing so I am hoping I can buy that reasonably cheap? How do you know for certain if the stator is working correctly?

We pulled it down the road with my utility ATV and it would hit a few times but not stay running...I'm pretty sure the carb is missing some screws or jets as it has several missing holes...

The oil tank has been removed so I am assuming the previous owners have mixed the oil and gas and plugged off the automatic oiler lines? What lines should I be looking for exactly? Is the 32:1 mix my local shop suggested going to be correct? Will it hurt the bike running this way?

I am also missing the complete rear brake assembly if anyone has a parts bike they would sell this from?

Please email me direct at torinocobra429scj@yahoo.com if you have parts for sale or can direct me in the right direction! Thanks

Here are a few pics:

 

[GIXER7502006]

NGK B8ES is the right plug any parts store will hav it .

Also the baffle is missing from the spark arrestor and will it be OK to try and get the bike running without it or will it not have the proper back pressure

baffle missing is fine, will hav to tune carb for it

The stator cover is missing so I am hoping I can buy that reasonably cheap? How do you know for certain if the stator is working correctly?

does it hav spark ?

need to hav an air filter first for sure also need to do a compression test

32/1 is correct 4oz per gal

really need pics of the carb
what makes u think yur missing jets and screws

 

[blasterdemon7]

Do not run it with no air filter. The first things you need to do is a compression test and a leak down test. Clean the inside of the carb and make sure it's complete.

 

[troyleming]

We have a 300EX and a Yamaha Warrior...Will one of those filters work until we get one from the parts store?

 

[blasterdemon7]

If you click the supporting badge under my avatar and pay the $10 membership fee, you can use the for sale / wanted section for your needs.

 

[troyleming]

Would that NGK R BCPR5ES plug have anything to do with it not running correctly?

 

[cole454]

Possibly, I would definatly change it out.
Also the 300ex and Warrior filters won't fit the Blaster.

 

[acezeesawtooth]

that could be part of it. i would also take that flywheel off and make sure the stator isnt rusted. clean the carb out replace the gas. get a new filter on there. check the reeds and do the two tests that were mentioned

 

[Larry's Shee]

What a great dad you are working with your son on this. I:I Order a filter and flywheel puller, by the time you get it you'll have the carb cleaned, cables and chain lubed, grease suspension, inspect everything good. Adjust chain.
Don't run it without air filter, it will be lean and suck in dirt. That plug sounds WAY wrong.
What did you pay for this?

 

[Luni]

Testing the stator is easy.

You use a digital multimeter and ohm out the resistance between the black wire and the black/red wire. Resistance should be between 192 and 288 ohms

And then you ohm out resistance between the black wire and the white/red wire. Resistance should be between 16-24 ohms.

Note, temprature will affect the readings. The manual says its testing at 68 degrees farenheit. The info I just gave you is straight out of the clymers manual.

 

[jlsparky7]

Check out my how tos in the link in my signature. Carb, air filter, all that good stuff is in there

 

[Larry's Shee]

Testing the stator is easy.

You use a digital multimeter and ohm out the resistance between the black wire and the black/red wire. Resistance should be between 192 and 288 ohms

And then you ohm out resistance between the black wire and the white/red wire. Resistance should be between 16-24 ohms.

Note, temprature will affect the readings. The manual says its testing at 68 degrees farenheit. The info I just gave you is straight out of the clymers manual.

I was wondering how much temp affects the readings? Was testing a Warrior this winter, 10*-0*F.:-/ Not all of us can test at room temp

 

[Blaner]

bike looks ok, but it seems like the previous owner was a bit of a ricer. you have anice project on your hands, i would suggest that it probably will need some engine work but a compression test and a leak test are you best tools to test the condition of the motor.

check out ebay for parts!

 

[troyleming]

The bike was listed on the Lexington, KY Craigslist for $1500 but the ad said he would definitely trade...This is where my boy got excited! My son had just bought an old 1979 Yamaha IT 250 from a guy I work with and did nothing more than put a new plug and fresh gas in it to get it running...I never dreamed the guy would trade him even and driver 178 miles one way to bring it to him! The first thing I did was called the Sheriff and had him run the serial number since it didn't have a title...Not sure they even came with one but stll thought it was too good to be true! LOL

So far, my Son has a whopping $202.50 in his Blaster! I'm VERY happy for him and think he'll take a lot better care of it if he has to buy everything himself! I'll just do some of the Shadetree mechanic work for him We have a local guy that can do the more in-depth stuff with the special tools...

 

[Blaner]

sounds like fun, welcome to the forum we aim to serve the needs of guys just like you!

 

[Larry's Shee]

Between you, your son, A Clymer's Manual, and this site you don't need no stinking shop. These arn't much more than a weed wacker with lights, lol. Well, maybe some things might be over the top right now. Biggest thing is PATIENCE !!
BTW, GREAT TRADE !! Even tho that IT is an ok bike, it's easier to find parts for the Blaster.

 

[Luni]

I was wondering how much temp affects the readings? Was testing a Warrior this winter, 10*-0*F.:-/ Not all of us can test at room temp

Reistance increases with temprature, so your tests would just read low, but most of the time, the range is broad enough to compensate for it. Sometimes not.

Another thing is, testing electrical isnt exact. Ive got a stator on my blaster right now that tests out of specification per the clymer, but it works fine. My ignition coil is brand new, tests out of specification on one of the sides and it works fine. Whats funny is, I have a bad stator in my garage that actually tests within spec better than the one thats on the bike, but it doesnt make any more than 4 volts to the ignition coil. It tests OK tho. Odd.

Im into cars. I have a Toyota MR2. Ive done ALOT of work on them, for other people, bought, sold a lot of parts etc. Ive NEVER ohmed out an ignition coil for one of those things that was within "spec" yet Ive never seen one go bad either.

So, I will always still test my electrical stuff, but when it comes to things with coils on em (stators, ignition coils) I take my readings compared to the manual with a grain of salt.