new rebuild different hook ups HELP
- Thread starter Rudy
- Start date
Of course all of that info is if you are removing oil injection system. Not too sure on the drive sproket let me see which one that is i'll get back to ya...
woohoo update, got the motor back in the frame LATE last night , checked my install completely , gas and 2 kicks of the "kicker" and wow she cam to life !!! shut it down cranked it twice more --- starts great , just watched Ken's break in this morn and will procced to do it , will let you guys know how it turns out!! crazy i thought i was the only geek that uses a IR thermometer , i do it on diesels to see if each cyl is getting the same temp , if not one is getting less/more fuel than the others ----- VERY critical step im almost ashamed to put pics here , there are a lot of fine rides here --- but mu son is going to be so stoked to finally ride again, you guys dont realize how helpful you have been , newbe here and all of you gave me straight answers and no BS. thats a change , will get the quad through the heat cycles and let you know , only thing is im going to have to tie a rope to his a-- and keep him slowed down through that first tank of go juice, later will let you know
Rudy
Rudy
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
another question , on the side of the crank case by the oil plug it says 650cm3 i assume this is centimeters squared, convert it tous ounces it comes out to about 22 ounces , put that in and it dosent show in the sight glass, any suggestions in ounces plz?
Rudy
BTW i put mobile synthetic crankcase oil in the bottom 22 ounces that ok?
Rudy
BTW i put mobile synthetic crankcase oil in the bottom 22 ounces that ok?
22 ounces seems like A LOT, 650cc is like 3/4 of a quart. my advise, get a ratio rite cup and never look back. u have waaaaaaaaay to much oil in there. the oil u use needs to be formulated for a wet clutch system
Or no friction modifiers. X(
As to break-in, if you think he won't follow directions as to no full throttle or not keeping it at constant rpm for extended time, YOU might better do the break-in (sorry son). I know how tempting it is to want to rip it I:I.
Congrats on a job well done, even with the headaches X(
BTW, did you keep or delete oil injection?
yep, drain that oil, and remeasure it, like noobs says - 3/4 of a quart, most bottles of oil have the ml's marked down the side, i know the mobile1 5w-30 my clutch brand calls for has it marked, 1000 ml. = 1 liter, pour a little at a time in till 350 ml. still remains in the bottle
msome guys even use type atf tranny fluid, just keep it changed and clean for best clutch life
msome guys even use type atf tranny fluid, just keep it changed and clean for best clutch life
Could always adjust the throttle stop screw out so it will only go as fast a you want it to! PS just don't let him see ya doing that! I:I
Glad she is all together, Please do an airleak test on it before you go any further, or you'll be getting on here asking why she won't start or run good! Or i need it rebuilt again!
Here's instructions and Im sure you can make a tester as mechanically inclinded as you seem to be! If not Pm me!
Here's how to build one-
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
wow you guys are way toooo serious about ur stuff , dont sweat the small stuff, just kidding , on a conversion table i found online it says 21.675342 ounces to 650 cm3 so i have to be in the ball park i hope, guys if we were any closer i would drive you all crazy, i have learned in 57 years , inorder to keep your blood preasure from blowing the top of your head off just hit the high spots be carefull and chill, but your advise is most helpfull and Ken i will do that air leak test now, and i think i will adjust the throttle stop back i wee bit Now i having trouble getting the clutch not to drag when you put it in gear oh well things were going to good i guess
Rudy
Rudy
ok now i gues you guys are going to think in really stupid , but before you respond think >> the only stupid question is one not asked<<<< on the carb you have a knob one would assume is the choke , i cant figure wheather up is choked or down ?? took the carb off didnt see any butterfly like usual ?? all the fuel linkage is loose and i cant get the idle adjusted, i guess just slop in the cable??
Here is the way to adjust the clutch properly! Adjusting at the handle bars is only for cable play!
How to do proper adjustment- [Ya have to remove the cable from the clutch arm on the motor first!]
1. loosen the outer center nut on the pressure plate almost all the way off
2. hold the clutch lever (the part that the cable hooks onto in the motor) and gently push it towards the front of your bike to relieve the spring tension
3. Now with a small phillips turn the center shaft in which ever direction it takes to align the pointer marks up as you are applying a little pressure to lever shouldn't take many turns you will feel it move. [usually clockwise] (the point on the clutch shaft should point to this arrow on the case)
4. When it is aligned, let the lever go it will go off the arrow due to spring tension that's ok. Keep your screw driver on there and take your wrench 10mm and tighten the center nut down snug while holding the center rod tight so it doesn't move. (I used blue locktight on threads also)
5. Now take a socket and tighten it down good but becareful you dont overtighten it and snap it just a good snug tight is perfect. 5 ft lbs is what the manual says.
6. Put the cover back on, make sure your spring for the kick gear is in the hole when you do this or you'll be replacing some more parts down the road (experience talking here!).
7. attach the cable back up and adjust that just until you feel the springs on the pressure plate start to hit, then back off 1/8 turn and try that, ya may need to play with the adjustment on the handle bar lever as it warms up.
If you cannot reach any step a couple things to look at are, Missing ball bearing or two ball bearings accidentally put in, bad clutch lever shaft, incorrect number of plates or incorrect pressure plate placement (DOTS ALIGNED).
Choke pulled up is on! Is this a stock carb with the big silver box on top of it? There is a screw adjustment on that box for the idle. Before ya even do that I'd check the float level and make sure that is right before any other adjustments are made. as the carb should be off anyhow due to the air leak test. the see what jets are inside the carb so you and us know where you stand. Stock is 230 main and pilot is 32.5. If the quad motor is all stock no aftermarket pipe/reeds/porting, this combo should be good. Let us know what ya come up with! And yes adjust the free play in the cable if it is not correct. I can't remember what the correct measurement is for that at this time.
ok new problem , my son gets on it to ride and 3 times it backfired twice and wouldnt crank back up for 4-5 min where do i start, i think i will drain the gas tomorrow and mix some 32;1 to make sure i have got the mix right , any suggestions on the back-fire and die out ??
rudy
rudy
Similar threads
