New Blaster, New to Forum... Hello and Advice

007blaster

007blaster

Member
Dec 12, 2011
340
3
49
Northern Michigan
Hey Guys, just traded a sled for a '97 Blaster. I have been floating around on Banshee HQ for sometime now and have a pretty nice trail banshee. I started on a Blaster when I was about 12 or 13 and decided it was time for another one. As far as I can tell it has the oil delete, not sure if the pump was removed or not, has some sort of billet aftermarket carrier and Douglas Wheels on the rear. Needs a whole rear brake set up and a new kicker gear/spring.
I plan on getting a FMF Fatty and Turbinecore, new front wheels and tires, new bars, new plastics(probably last upgrade), new a-arms, 400ex shock upgrade, YFZ450 shocks up front, and nerfs.
Looking for some advice on what I should do to it and how does it look? It runs good but smokes like crazy, guy said his 17 yr old daughter probably mixed the gas wrong, I will do a compression test this weekend, throw in a new plug, clean the carb and drain the gas and report back.

ENJOY!
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Welcome to the forum. The 450 shocks won't work on the stock a arms as is. Add fresh mix and do a leak down test on the engine. There's loads of info on here that will help you.
 
Thanks!, yea I have a leakdown tester for the Banshee, should be able to work on the Blaster, just ordered a TORS delete kit as well. Hope compression and leakdown turn good results. Will also be picking up a Clymer. What compresssion numbers should I be shooting for? Over 110? to be safe..not sure what oil mix the guy ran before but 32:1 sound good? thats what I run in the banshee with 93.
 
pretty good shape for it's age !
welcome to BF.
 
Looks good, lots of potential.

Get some heel guards on it soon, before it bites you.

My lad footed the other day at just 10 mph, his leg went outside the heel guard and the tyre tread grabbed his foot and swiftly removed him from the seat.

Luckily he was not going fast and had enough time to throw himself off and let the bike run over his leg go off on its own.

Fortunatly he only got rubber burns up the underside of his leg an a little grass burn on the knee.
 
Alright, let me know if I am posting this stuff in the wrong section, I know some forums can be pretty anal. I tore into the bike a little more tonight, found a few things I would like to address.. First I removed the whole TORS Setup, brain, box on top of carb, disconnected everything.....Eliminated the key start.....Pulled the carb, that will be cleaned tomorrow. In the pictures you will see I removed the intake boot and the reed, the right side lower bolt hole that is part of the casting of the cylinder is gone/broken off. Do I have a way of making this work without having to buy a new cylinder? Also checked my compression with the result of 122ish psi, which is good, didn't think it was going to be that good. Looked in the intake ports and thru the plug hole and did not see any major scoring on the piston and no lean dimple on top of the piston, looked good to me. Air filter looks like crap so that will be replaced, gas tank has been flushed and will be cleaned, all fuel lines will be replaced. I will report back tomorrow with carb settings(jet sizes) and hoping I will get some non halfass ways of fixing the cylinder/reed casting issue.
Thanks guys!
Appreciate the help....
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I think I might just buy a nice used jug and head, new top end kit and call it good, I dont like cobbleing something up to get by especially when a top end takes like an hour to do.
 
Well I just bought a new cylinder, should be here friday and I will run it down to my local machine shop to have it bore/honed, order up a Wiseco Pro-lite top end kit. A member on here thinks he might be able to salvage the current cylinder and if so I will keep that as a spare. Carb is being cleaned right now, the main jet was a 240, not sure on pilot forgot my little screw driver at home, needle was 2nd clip from the top. Clymer manual will be here this week also along with TORS kit. Trying to decide if I want to go Boyesen or Vforce on reeds.
 
Breather tube should go upward under the tank and finish up in the hood at the highest point possible.

Do not let the machinist bore the jug until he has the new piston in hand.

If you are looking at a new Fatty pipe, grab a handful of main jets #270 to #300 and move the needle clip back to the middle slot.
 
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