New beginner

[blastforme]

Hello all, I've been doing a little DIY's. I decided to have some fun since it was a nice Sunday. After I would say a hour...1st through 3rd seemed whiny so I called a friend and he had me bring it by. He was unsure if was low trans oil, bearing, or the chain was too tight, causing the motor to bind. I checked the trans oil and it was low so I added 3/4 quart. The whine didn't quit right away but it did eventually quit. Now, the question is, is my problem solved or do I need to prepare for a tear down?

03 Blasty
Stock Carb
FMF fatty w/ power core 2 silencer
15/40 gears
20" Razrs

 

[Blaaster]

A whine is never a good sound.

The chain being too tight would not have caused binding of the engine , but could have been complaining audibly if it was over tight.

It could pay to drain the tranny and look for any signs of metal particles, if none found replace with 650ml of oil.

It too may pay to remove the header from the cylinder to see if any damage has been done to the piston, air leaks can sometimes cause the piston to overheat and shed aluminium and deposit it on the cylinder wall.

I you have access to a leak tester, now is the time to test for air leaks.

 

[tbrooks]

Definitely leak test. Need to find out where that oil was goin. 3/4 quart is more than the trans requires when empty!

 

[nick20555]

I just had a similar problem with my blaster. Mine was because it ran dry on oil (leaked out drain plug). I make an awful squeeling/screetching noise. Luckily, I put more oil in it and the noise went away (but not instantly). But like tbrooks says, 3/4 of a quart is a hell of a lot more than mine took to fill from empty. I didn't have any metal in the oil or anything and it now runs fine. I'd say if it doesn't have metal in the oil then don't worry too much about it, just remember that you may be seeing a rebuild a little faster than normal because of it.

 

[Blaaster]

The transmission requires 650ml of oil, no more, no less.

 

[blasterdemon7]

Welcome to the forum.

 

[hazem_youssef]

i m a new member here and i ve learned a lot here , but i want to be sure of somthing , is that mean that the 650 ml of oil is for the eng. and the tranny at the same time cause i thought it was diff kind of oil in a diff place to add , sorry to look that stupid .

 

[blastforme]

Thanks everyone.

 

[Blaaster]

Only the tranny takes oil that you put in the filler.

The crankcase takes oil from the oil injection or pre mix.

 

[blastforme]

I just rechecked the chain, definitely not too tight. No metal shavings. I would say a rebuild because of crank case seal.

 

[Blaaster]

Leak test before pulling apart to confirm leaky seals.

 

[blastforme]

Even if I see it dripping from the case where the seal is? I'm not altering your advice Blaaster, I just think I overlooked something simple

 

[MercMenace]

If i was you and it was dripping from the crankcase Clutch cover I would drain tranny oil, pull the cover and inspect for cracks. While I was in there i would replace all the oil seals. peace of mind for 20 bucks is way worth it. Put crankcase Clutch cover back on with a new gasket. If you have the stock phillips head screws holding the cover on i would replace them with allen head screws. torque to spec and leak test, leak test, leak test, leak test, leak test before ever starting it again.

Did I mention i would recommend a leak test?

And by crankcase i actually mean clutch cover.

 

[MercMenace]

Even if I see it dripping from the case where the seal is? I'm not altering your advice Blaaster, I just think I overlooked something simple

Ok I am a bit braindead. Where exactly is it leaking from? pics would be a great help.

 

[blastforme]

Its coming from where the clutch cover gasket is

 

[blastforme]

My top end rebuild kit came with all of the gaskets even for the bottom end so I have them handy already, its just the matter of doing it. Probably this weekend if my job allows

 

[dirtysquared]

My top end rebuild kit came with all of the gaskets even for the bottom end so I have them handy already, its just the matter of doing it. Probably this weekend if my job allows

Welcome! You got some good advise above. I'll throw my $0.02 in too. When you add oil to the tranny, make sure it doesn't have friction modifiers in it, and its designed for wet clutches.

If you go replacing the crank seals, get a flywheel puller for the stator side, and for the clutch side, there are a few bend tab "lock washers" that will need removed. Get new ones if you remove them. Its a few bucks well spent to make sure things are done right.

Download the service manual found here, follow the torque specs and procedures, and you should be golden.

It might seem overwhelming at first, but with some time and drive, you'll get it done right.

 

[blastforme]

Good advice is always a plus!