NEEDING HELP BAD TODAY PLEASE!!!
- Thread starter CHEVY_TRUCKS_72
- Start date
thats what they told him to run in it. it is a fast bike but simular engine size to the blaster.
didnt set the float idk how and it didnt need bored a friend of my pops has been building these banshees yzs and plainly 2 strokes for about 42 years
With running premix,performance filter, and no air box lid you should be lean in normal standards. Is there a lil washer between the main jet and carb? Does it have the little plastic splash guard? Also I just bought a moose carb kit and the needle just seems different, if you still have your old needle maybe swap it out and try. Not sure if that stuff has been mentioned but I didn't see it when I skimmed through,idk... Also ask the guy for some jets that does banshees.
Okay so I have looked at my old jets and needle and things and they were clogged up and so when i get home from work today ill blow them out with a compressor and just reuse them . when I take off air box lid it does lean it but it sounds exactly right when i do. Perfect throttle response and no box at full throttle. I will chick for washer and splash guard after work today I will clean older carburetor parts and try it that way. Thanks alot guys! I will keep everyone posted on if i find a fix today. When i get home 1st thing ill do is check these forums to see if any of you have made a breakthrough. You guys are helping make my 14 year old a happy camper and I thank you all alot!
Sounds like you may have made a breakthrough. Clean that carb thouroughly. At the minimum disassemble, spray it good with carb cleaner and let it soak for a few before blowing with the compressor. You should prob soak it in something for awhile if it is bad. Make sure all the parts are there and that you get it back together properly. Then set your floats. I don't remember all your mods, list them again for us and we'll get you a jet ballpark to start with
It is just not good enough to just soak the carb in fluid, the jets must be removed, cleaned, and the passages blown out with air!
You should be mixing at 32:1 or better, 40:1 will make for a too rich a fuel content!
Your elevation at nearly 3000 will need a leaner jet choice than at sea level!
You need to understand how to select the correct jetting, and confirm by doing a plug chop.
Plug chop.........................
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
Google.........Blaster leak down test.............
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
You should be mixing at 32:1 or better, 40:1 will make for a too rich a fuel content!
Your elevation at nearly 3000 will need a leaner jet choice than at sea level!
You need to understand how to select the correct jetting, and confirm by doing a plug chop.
Plug chop.........................
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system, otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
Google.........Blaster leak down test.............
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride WOT through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the motor to pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.
Last edited:
As for messing with the air screw, see post 6 where I explained just how to adjust the idle, this is the first thing that must be done before trying to re jet.
The needle should be the stock one with the clip on the middle slot, if you have one from a kit in there , toss it away!
The needle should be the stock one with the clip on the middle slot, if you have one from a kit in there , toss it away!
Slow down, don't ride until you start at the beginning and work through the problems, otherwise you will have nothing to ride.
Start at the beginning, with a leak test.
Start at the beginning, with a leak test.
how do i do a leak test? And I really dont have money at the moment to buy testers and stuff like that. I have a video on my phone of me starting and letting it idle, and then it at full throttle bogging. There is a small part of a green gasket showing on the bottom of my engine could i just re torque or do i have to replace the gasket?
Correct me if I'm wrong. These are things you changed and now it doesn't run right.
New piston and rings, or just rings?
New air filter?
Moose Carb rebuild kit?
I see no mention of checking filter for excess filter oil. If you can squeeze oil out, it's too much.
No mention that you in fact did set float level. Be surprised how critical this is !!
All jetting specs are for sea level. If you do not set float level, all suggestions are meaningless.
Basic rule of thumb is one jet size smaller for every 1000-1500' elevation change. This isn't written in stone as every engine is different, no matter what. We can give you a "range", but only you can determine what is correct with a plug chop/read.
The difference between a 230 and 240 jet can't be seen with the eye. That's why your best bet is to clean your original jets (pilot and main) and put everything back to original.
Never could figure why they have jets in rebuild kits. They don't wear out.
On you tube search jlsparky, good vids on carb cleaning.
New piston and rings, or just rings?
New air filter?
Moose Carb rebuild kit?
I see no mention of checking filter for excess filter oil. If you can squeeze oil out, it's too much.
No mention that you in fact did set float level. Be surprised how critical this is !!
All jetting specs are for sea level. If you do not set float level, all suggestions are meaningless.
Basic rule of thumb is one jet size smaller for every 1000-1500' elevation change. This isn't written in stone as every engine is different, no matter what. We can give you a "range", but only you can determine what is correct with a plug chop/read.
The difference between a 230 and 240 jet can't be seen with the eye. That's why your best bet is to clean your original jets (pilot and main) and put everything back to original.
Never could figure why they have jets in rebuild kits. They don't wear out.
On you tube search jlsparky, good vids on carb cleaning.
Similar threads
