Need help planning a trail blastly rebuild.

Astral

New Member
Jun 16, 2011
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Well my dad and I want to turn our blasty into a super fun toy. We have looked around and seen all we can figure out on are own. Exhausts, sprockets, and such. But before we go out and spend a lot of money we decided to check here for help with planning the whole thing. We want it for trail riding primarily, so we don't need it to go super fast but we do want some power on it.

List of things we think we want:

DMC Exhaust System
Uni Air filter
Parking Brake Removal
Oil Filter Removal (We have a Banshee that needs fuel pre-mixed already so why not share the fuel between the two)
New Sprocket ratio(13-44)
13 tooth front sprocket
44 tooth rear sprocket
New Tires(Kenda Kutter XC 22x11-9 in back and 21x7-10 in front)
Banshee or YFZ 450 Front Shocks
trx450 or 400ex Rear Shock
V-Force 3 Reed Valve
Aggressive Trail Port
Head Machining
PWK 28MM Carb
Fly Racing Aero Bars w/Fly Racing Grips
Banshee OEM Rims
4-115 Hubs
TORS Removal



Now that's all we have figured out but surely there's more to do to it that we can't think of. That's why were asking you all for help. Should we do engine bores? Should we change suspension? Were lost now.

If you guys help me I will make a thread in the rebuild section and post pics of us building it when we start it :).
 
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depends on how much money you want to spend its on somewhat of a budget i would do.

toomey pipe
air filter
port/head work talk to wildcard flotek or ken oconnor
reeds possibly
if you get porting a 30mm carb
suspension would be a major thing iv heard good things about a 400ex rear shock and banshee front shocks. look in the search bar for how to install the 400ex rear shock.
 
you really want handling, suspension is a must, if ur on a budget got with some yf fronts and a trx450 rear, and u got a nice suspension then the motor go with porting the stock motor u got now for an aggressive trail port, plenty of builders here that do a great job, just stay away from kennedy. upgrade ur carb to at least a 30mm but u can go to a 34 and feed that motor more. exhaust, u can do fmf, toomey, lrd, there are so many pipes out there to choose from, just stay away from dg. u can also get vf3 reeds whic are a nice upgrade. u can do rear hydros for better stopping, front hydros, but thats gonna cost a lot, 160 for rear i think, might be 180. but if ur just looking for some more power get the port work and head,exhaust of ur choosing and a carb.
 
It's a 2006 so shouldn't it already have hydro brakes? Also i was thinking ken oconner for the port/head work and I have not seen where to buy carbs from anywhere. Got ideas for where to get those guys?
 
I agree with 2smoker but with your gearing buy a 12tooth front and also a 42 and 38 rear and play with it to see what you like, your going to want 20 or 22 inch tires for trails, so that will gear you higher so you want probably a 12 40 12 42 ratio.
 
id get a pwk 28 or a 30 oko, also what kind of trails are you riding on? i wouldnt recomend holeshots on trails when compared to others try to stay away from itp and maxxis they use cheap soft rubber that rips and doesnt last long.

i used some turf tamers for awhile and they were great, but kenda kutters or knarlys are great for a all purpose tire for trails.

theres these tires called super swamper tsl and there what ill be getting for coal dumps and hill climbing.

also id get some rolled lip wheels off a banshee or warrior then get some 4x115 hubs if your on a budget, but if moneys not a prob get some itp baja wheels.

and DONT bore the engine unless you have to and DONT get a big bore kit unless you feel like you need more power but usally its not needed.
 
Thanks for the idea. I'm getting a PWK 28mm for sure. As far as boreing goes I'm not getting any. Porting should be good enough for me. I'm still looking at tires and trying to figure out what rolled lip wheels means.
 
Forgot to say that last post whoops. It's hilly, muddy, with some nice straightaways. Based in a big field near a mountain I think. Muddy becomes dry when there's no rain for awhile and it snows here somewhat good in the winter. Thanks for the rolled lip wheel explanation blasterboy.
 
I like the look of the kendas..plus there cheaper so I'll go with them.

As for the Oil Injection Removal should I just buy a kit or should I do it myself?
Same with the E-Brake removal, Kit or Not?
 
do them both your self search for the oil block off on here and the ebrake is just a couple screws and unplug the wires and cable.

also make sure you overide the tors when you put you 28 on.

also i got some banshee shocks if your interested.
 
Ah yes..I completely forgot about the TORS removal. I need to add that to the list. Thanks for reminding me. Also how much for the banshee shocks...Moneys tight till I get a renter for my other house but I'll see what your price is now and maybe I can get them in a month or two if you still got them.
 
That's alright, can't afford them right away anyways. Now I'm just wondering if I should get a chassis Skid Plate or not. Never needed it before but when I get my engine ported I might want it.
 
I was looking a swing arm plates but I'm afraid I'll buy one use it a bit, then decided I want to extend the swing-arm and then my skid plate wont work anymore...At least I don't think it would.
 
if you get a extended swinger it will work aslong as it has the mounts which most do.

id recomend ken Oconners T-rock swing arm, stay away from the ebay swingers