need an opinion on cylinder porting

When the piston is above the intake windows, the crankcase is being filled through those windows. The factory porting is a divot for the boost port but a big block of aluminum between the other two windows.

Instead of cutting the width of the bridge down (which if not done properly can mess things up) or taking all of the aluminum down and just leaving steel, I worked the aluminum into a bullet shape to ease the flow into the bottom end.
 
When the piston is above the intake windows, the crankcase is being filled through those windows. The factory porting is a divot for the boost port but a big block of aluminum between the other two windows.

Instead of cutting the width of the bridge down (which if not done properly can mess things up) or taking all of the aluminum down and just leaving steel, I worked the aluminum into a bullet shape to ease the flow into the bottom end.

Ok i see what you mean im not to experienced so im just going to put a little angle on it so i do mess anything up
 
i too did some work with the dremel. i didnt do too much, because i didnt wanna mess it up too much. here's pics. btw, dont polish the intake port. leave it somewhat rough, so the fuel and air will atomize better. at least thats what i've been told. with this porting that i did, i noticed a ton more power up top with my f7 pipe. its a little boggy on the bottom still, but once you get the rpm's up you really notice the difference. i also raised the exhaust port 1mm and smoothed out the transfer ports

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dont shoot me down saying it was shotty work etc... i didnt wanna do too much and f*ck something up. i'll let the major work be done by the professionals, like ken o'conner. at least when i get the money, hopefully by spring
 
i too did some work with the dremel. i didnt do too much, because i didnt wanna mess it up too much. here's pics. btw, dont polish the intake port. leave it somewhat rough, so the fuel and air will atomize better. at least thats what i've been told. with this porting that i did, i noticed a ton more power up top with my f7 pipe. its a little boggy on the bottom still, but once you get the rpm's up you really notice the difference. i also raised the exhaust port 1mm and smoothed out the transfer ports

dont shoot me down saying it was shotty work etc... i didnt wanna do too much and f*ck something up. i'll let the major work be done by the professionals, like ken o'conner. at least when i get the money, hopefully by spring

What did the bigger ports do for you
 
not bad work at all man. it's better to play it safe than sorry. the only reason i went as far as i did is I had an old jug that was slightly ported. i don't know by who but it ran great so copying it gave me confidence
 
that is what we are talkin about doin devilman. making that center bridge more pointed instead of square. this is going to increace flow and if you do a good job you will probably need to jet up a bit. more fuel and air into the cylinder is the goal
 
What did the bigger ports do for you

i didnt raise or lower the intake ports at all. i did however, take a little bit off the width when i was cutting it into a point. also, on the top intake port, i smoothed out the entrance to that port on the top. so it isnt just flat on top to a hard radius up to the entrance of that port. with my f7 pipe, before any porting it was somewhat boggy down low, and then hit pretty hard up top. now, its about the same, maybe a tiny bit better on the low end, but the top end snap is so much more noticeable. i think i have a video of it right after i did the porting. for some reason i cant keep my clutch from slipping. i think my basket is due for replacement, but when i'm on the road, through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear it will pull the front end up a little bit without trying when it hits the powerband, and thats with a +3 swinger, and a arms that bring the front end up +1.
here's a vid

 
a little in the exhaust port but my polishing tools didn't fit in there very well. you can use mothers and stuff like that by hand to shine it up.
 
I have a dremel with a cable attachment ive been using it has some polishing tools small enough to fit in there im going to do some more hand sanding in there and do some polishing with some mothers i want to ty and get a mirror finish on it
 
in homedepot and lowes they carry polishing compounds in the tool section. for alluminum you start with the brown and then use white. but it needs to be smooth, at least 800 grit b4 you start polishing. those will work better than mothers and they come in bars. lowes carries porter cable brand. like 3 bucks a piece
 
The dremel polishing kit came with some brown compound ill have to get some white.... Yeah she does it pisses my wife off to because never fails she is right next to my wife when she does it to lol
 
when he sit's down he just rips em bc his tail lifts sometimes like 10 seconds. no joke. most the time it doesn't stink. thank god. hate to tell ya but those little polishing things kinda suck but i guess their better than nothing. if you have a drill harbor freight and northern tool carry alluminum polishing kits for like 20 bucks with lots of attachments for a drill. good investment if you want to polish.
 
Unfortunately im at a marine corps base in the middle of the desert in 29 palms Ca. so all i have without a 40 mile drive is what a sh*tty hardware store the px on base and autozone have lol so ill check out what they have and next time i go to home depot ill get some if they dont have anything better than mothers i have a little while before i assemble the engine