My project gone all wrong

Henry

New Member
Apr 27, 2014
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i recently purchased a 2000 blaster and that's where it went crazy. i bought it because they are easy to work on and fun to ride but i'm not getting any riding in atm. So here is what i have done and what it is doing:

low compression 80-95 psi -fix wiseco piston and brand new oem nos cylinder. compression up to 154 psi now
no spark- replaced stator, cdi ,volt reg, coil, and plug (ricky stator adj timing and ngk bpr8es plug) strong dark blue spark that sounds like lightning.

tors eliminator cable and carb top because i don't want to have the tors problem in the future. plus i cleaned all jets and completely went through the entire carb back to new looking. (twice)


ok so my problem is. It kicks and acts like it wants to start but doesnt, it will give me more than a dozen revolutions before dying. then 4-5 kicks with nothing and then boom a dozen turns then dies. i know two strokes are easy but this one has me stumped. what am i missing? Oh and hello i'm new to the forums.... nice to meet you all.
 
? what is oem nos cylinder? and how do you have 154 psi...is it a modified head?

check for free flow of fuel from tank to carb,and or loosen gas cap to be sure it is venting properly.....the stator is a issue because no one on here has had any luck with nothing other than a oem stator.....Is the timing set a 0 degrees did you maybe retard timing or advance it to much.
 
year calculater pic plus ex1 1 1.jpg
 
just say no to Ricky or RM stators
check reeds, float height and airscrew settings
info on last 2 in the carb section
 
I second the reeds, and also check for propper fuel flow. (Remove gas pipe at carb to confirm flow)
Remove carb from intake boot and see if any fuel runs/leaks out after a few minutes.
Severe air leak??
 
@ speedy - oem nos is original equipment manufacture new old stock. it's a brand new yamaha cylinder i found at a local dealer parts counter for the bike. it was just sitting back in the back collecting dust. as far as the stator advance or retard.... i have no clue. i tried to mark the positions of the original and match them with the ricky. and the year is 2000. as far as my 154 psi..... nope no head work just a good cross hatch and a 10.25:1 wiseco piston.

@Blaaster - Yes i think i was flooding at some point possibly. allow me to explain: prior to my complete electrical gut and replace i had very weak light orange spark if any at all. it choked and gagged not running at all. my first though before spark was fuel/flooding so i bought boysen dual stage reeds and replaced them due to the air gap in the stock reeds. when that didnt fix it i decided i would build it ground up and just have peace of mind that it was all new. As i removed the exhaust pipe fuel dumped out of it...... not a little...... i mean there was 10-16 oz of fuel that dumped on my garage floor. however i don't know if it was flooding or just not firing. i kicked and kicked and pulled it up and down the driveway for 3 or 4 trying to start it so it could have just not been firing the fuel it was getting.

@Awk08 - will do and i will get back with you this afternoon after i check

@MrTwoJay - i have gas flowing cleanly from the line in both the reserve and normal positions. the fuel bowl on the carb seems to be nearly full.

@motoman159 - yeah the key looks new. i believe that i may have been the first guy to ever have the flywheel off.



thank you for all the replies. i wasn't expecting suck a quick response from so many people. 10:15am EST and i am burning daylight. i have a blaster to figure out. i'm off to the garage to check things and i will report my findings accordingly. thank you all again
 
There may still be a load of fuel lurking in the crankcase, drain the carby, take out the spark plug, open the throttle wide, kick the engine over until your leg hurts or pull it up the driveway in gear to purge the old fuel out.

Now put everything back to start mode and viola.

It is possible to check the fuel level in the carby without removing it, lift the drain hose up above the float bowl, crack open the drain. The fuel should be level with the top of the bowl gasket.
The petcock should be on for this.
 
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@Blaaster did the float check and it's good to go. pulled it up the road and back to purge it. put it all back together and now it's trying to start on every single kick. maybe 5 seconds of run time and sometimes 30 seconds.

now my next question is...... in theory can i adjust the idle with the throttle cable? my eliminator kit came with a new cap new cable and new idle screw but no TAP for the idle screw!. i have the cable adjusted up to where it should approximately sit at idle.
 
The idle can be adjusted by the cable, but when the handlebars are turned the revs will rise slightly due to cable routing.
 
so i could just have it idled to low. i am going to purge it again and try a bit higher setting on the cable. i had to order a tap for the screw and i don't plan to run it long like this. i just want to hear it run for christs sake lol. i am about to find the nearest bridge and jump
 
just a question about your reeds,did they come with a plate to use instead of the oem reed stoppers? and did you put both of them on instead of the original reed stoppers?.Someone else put both on a lil while back and thats not good:)
 
I put the plates that came with the boysen on. But i hadnt considered if the plate could be backwards. The screw holes in the new ones are offset. I have the short side toward the end of the reed that lifts. If i turn them around i will have more plate over the reed body and that should stiffen them up a bit.
 
Actually with dual stage reeds...... should i just use the oem stopper?
 
people on here will tell you to use the oem stoppers...because it will lenghten the life of your reeds...But i just wanted to make sure you did not put both on because the screws will probably get sucked into your engine then bye bye....make sure you use loctite also:)
 
k i'm going to try the stock stoppers and see if that does the trick. i'll report back in a bout 30 min.