its a start lol is the parking break still on your blaster,i forgot everything you wrote but ?,,what exhaust do you have lid on or off air screw setting?
My project gone all wrong
- Thread starter Henry
- Start date
did you delete the tors unit? is the parking break on? the parking break wire will make it not rev
Parking brake and tors are gone. The air test i have not done but i replaced all my gaskets. I am leaning toward carb problems or timing issues right now. Either i am not getting spark at the right time or my air mix is off or i am flooding..... not real sure yet. Gonna give it a try again tomorrow. I will keep everyone updated.
Basics, clean carb, set float level.
Leak test, new gaskets are no guarantee that it will not leak.
If someone has tightened the reed screws above 5.8 ft lbs the chances that the reed block is warped is very, very high.
Seal both the reeds and carb boot with a little copper RTV and tighten the screws diagonally and incrementally (a little at a time).
Set air screw at 1 1/2 turns out an set idle as specs.
Warm up engine.
Leak test, new gaskets are no guarantee that it will not leak.
If someone has tightened the reed screws above 5.8 ft lbs the chances that the reed block is warped is very, very high.
Seal both the reeds and carb boot with a little copper RTV and tighten the screws diagonally and incrementally (a little at a time).
Set air screw at 1 1/2 turns out an set idle as specs.
Warm up engine.
started in on it again today and it's worse off than yesterday. it's back to running about 5 seconds then dying. i am going to try putting the stock stator back on and see if i have spark blue spark. i replaced every electrical component at once when i rebuilt it and honestly don't know what part was bad and giving me orange / no spark. with the oem stator i will be able to eliminate timing if it's a good blue spark. then i'm gonna purge and try all over again. if i don't get it today i am going to take it to a yamaha dealer and throw in the towel. i hope to get it fixed though because i have never had to throw in the towel before. lol
NEVER give up !! They aren't refered to as stealership for no good reason.
Time to double/tripple check everything. Ohm all pieces, check continuity of wires, check for bad insulation, if frame was recently painted/PC'd run a seperate ground from coil back to engine.
Time to double/tripple check everything. Ohm all pieces, check continuity of wires, check for bad insulation, if frame was recently painted/PC'd run a seperate ground from coil back to engine.
i have awesome fire with the ricky's. i am trying to purge it right now. just taking a little break from kicking. i have the fule lines off and the bowl drained and exhaust and plug off. it's still spraying sh*t out the exhaust port. it may just have a crap load of fuel in it. if i drain the oil will that fix it?
shut off the gas if you think it is flooding?..nothing is in the crank and cylinder piston except gas and 2 stroke oil .the trans oil is seperate from that.
Did I mention they can be a bear to clean out 
Consider removing plug, cranking to BDC and let it sit for s to let gas evap. or pull carb and reeds and stick a hair dryer in there to speed it up. Might put plug back in for that, just in case you get a little fire, it won't be right under tank
Consider removing plug, cranking to BDC and let it sit for s to let gas evap. or pull carb and reeds and stick a hair dryer in there to speed it up. Might put plug back in for that, just in case you get a little fire, it won't be right under tank
well i had my wife pull me up and down the road and got it belched out. put it all back together and boom it fired right up. i touched the gas and it died. it will kick and run for a few revs but nothing more. tore it back down and it's flooded again. i think i may just buy a new carb with the tors eliminator setup already there. that's the last piece that i havent replaced on the bike... minus the crank and connecting rod,
Flooding is a relative simple fix.
Set float level, clean crap out of needle and seat.
You may need to remove varnish from the seat with a Q tip and toothpaste.
Check to see if the float is leaky and has fuel in it.
Has the tank got crap in it which is entering the needle and seat and fouling it?
Set float level, clean crap out of needle and seat.
You may need to remove varnish from the seat with a Q tip and toothpaste.
Check to see if the float is leaky and has fuel in it.
Has the tank got crap in it which is entering the needle and seat and fouling it?
i know that thing is running strong know
Got it running strong. I had a couple issues. Wrong plug, i was using a brp8es instead of the br8es. I rewound the factory charge coil with a couple tweaks and it stands straight up in 3rd gear now. It was a float issue on the belly full of fuel. I had a small pin hole in one float and after it was all tweaked out ive got a wicked little wheelie machine. Now i am gonna ride and enjoy it for a bit before i send the top end to KOR to get the magic touch put on it for my final build. Thank you for allthe help guys
This is not really possible without removing the carb because it is so tilted in the stock setup where do you hold the line up to? the front or the back of the carb lol its tilted 10 degrees. i removed mine and set it using the notch on the side of the stock carb and a clear tube and it runs much better than before
