Thinking of making my own. Obviously going wider, but what is the benifit of +1 forward. If 1 is good why are none made +2 forward?
Making A Arms ???
- Thread starter Larry's Shee
- Start date
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
what material you going to use?
Haha. You are making me laugh too much and it hurts sooo much. The swelling is at it's Prime right now. Just had wisdom teeth removed tuesday. Oh and we should probably stop spamming up @Larry's Shee's thread....
Primarily like this site and this thread is a prime example why. When in doubt JACK the thread and Prime your pump 
Actually my Prime thought is that any more forward would probably mess with the steering geometry, too much angle of tie rods to spindle, might make one wheel turn more than the other, I'm not going to do the gazzintas to figure it out.As far as material, I'd do cro-mo if I had a TIG, or if I can find how to do it right with an arc welder. Prime example of lack of knowledge (for now). Guess I'll have to get back on the welding forum to prime the knowledge pump I:I
I figure that if the factory uses mild steel, that's good enough for me I:I , but will do just a little thicker gauge.
For ball joints I'm going to use lower ball joints for YFZ 450, $20 each from All Ballz. Probably a set of Banshee spindles (cause already have them) and won't have to look for pinch style and get norman spindles.
Gazzintas: 2 gazzinta 4 two times.
Everybody likes a little A$$, but nobody likes a smartA$$ 8-|
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
Blaner
Your Friendly South African Ambassador
this thread has gone primal!!
im sure good ol steel will work, but like you say go a touch thicker, wonder if they will turn out heavy??
im sure good ol steel will work, but like you say go a touch thicker, wonder if they will turn out heavy??
Yeah, thicker steel might be a little too heavy. You could always pull a stunt like the owner of Lonestar, in his Prime time for design, who had an all titanium (excluding the Primary parts like engine, wheels, plastics, etc) trx450r built for him, and he rode it once. He decided he didn't like it, so he sold it for $14000. (Thanks sicivicdude for this little bit of info)
There was a thread on here started about that that little stunt.
I'm not sure what the factory tubing is grade-wise but I know it bends a whole lot easier than the chromoly.
Have a a Mig welder or oxy-fuel setup? Either will do chromoly well (with practice and patience).
I'm not sure what the factory tubing is grade-wise but I know it bends a whole lot easier than the chromoly.
Have a a Mig welder or oxy-fuel setup? Either will do chromoly well (with practice and patience).
this may be a shot in the dark but cant a lil flux core welder weld chromoly? i thought i did some research or asked some body and they said yes. I was gonnna make and extended steering stem.
A 110v mig will work fine , better welds will be made with shielding gas instead of flux core wire. +2 would be too harsh for the front geometry , you have to do some phragleish frame wizardry to make it happen .
I made my first three sets with a 110V mig welder using 75% argon/ 25% CO2 gas.
I would imagine that a flux cored mig welder would do it but the result wouldn't be as attractive as with gas.
Mild steel doesn't resist bending like chromoly tubing does. You CAN use mild steel but it would take a LOT more engineering for gusset plates and bracing. You'll want to brace the ball joint mount and the shock mount heavily to keep it from bending easily.
I would imagine that a flux cored mig welder would do it but the result wouldn't be as attractive as with gas.
Mild steel doesn't resist bending like chromoly tubing does. You CAN use mild steel but it would take a LOT more engineering for gusset plates and bracing. You'll want to brace the ball joint mount and the shock mount heavily to keep it from bending easily.
As for the forward offset. You can really design any forward offset you want +2, +4 is even possible without too much trouble but +1 is the magic number that also partially corrects the factory yamaha bumpsteer.
Interesting ... I've never heard this before ... did Yamaha put the steering stem too far forward?
I believe I'm thinking about suspension geometry in the wrong plane. Way back when I was thinking about why you would move the spindles forward 1" (trying to figure why you would want the spindles more forward than stock) and I was reading about bump steer and I was thinking that was the reason but I believe I was thinking about it wrong. I was thinking that moving the spindles forward would mean that the tie rods would be pointed forward and intersect the magical "intersection" point but I was sitting there thinking about it and "forward" has nothing to do with that intersection point... only up and down do
http://www.thedirtforum.com/bumpsteer.htm
Perhaps the ONLY reason why you'd move the spindle 1" forward is for lengthening the stance.
Going much more than an inch or two would be problematic either way because once you start going TOO far forward, you have to worry about the shock not being able to fit inside the upper control arm and not sitting on top of the lower control arm.
My +1 forward have the shock ears sitting on the back tube instead of on a plate between the tubes like the stock a-arms
http://www.thedirtforum.com/bumpsteer.htm
Perhaps the ONLY reason why you'd move the spindle 1" forward is for lengthening the stance.
Going much more than an inch or two would be problematic either way because once you start going TOO far forward, you have to worry about the shock not being able to fit inside the upper control arm and not sitting on top of the lower control arm.
My +1 forward have the shock ears sitting on the back tube instead of on a plate between the tubes like the stock a-arms
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