Major blaster help!

[Superdan88]

Good afternoon all.

Ill start by introducing myself! My names dan, and I live in the UK.

Today, I picked up a really beat blaster that needs tons of work. Parts are few and far between over here but I am determined to bring her back to life even though it will outweigh the cost of buying a mint blaster in the current climate.

So...

Here are some pics -

The parking brake is shot to pieces! I am assuming I need to replace this with an oem part? Or is there another part out there that I can use?

I have a big spark when I kick the bike over, but I cannot get it to fire? This wont be because of the parking brake will it? I'm guessing this is a fuel delivery issue.

Secondly, the previous owner has cut out parts of the harness, so I have a mass of wires which I don't know where they go. So...

I have no -
Front light
Rear light
Oil pump
Parking brake

Does anyone have a simple drawing that I can follow to simplify the wiring on my blaster as I don't want to buy a new harness. I would just like to remove all the mess and only have the necessity.

Ill start At the front. This is what I am left with -

The left is the rectifier I think? Do I need this?

Then the stock tors to the right?

But what is underneath?



This is what I have coming from the stator.

Then I have these coming from the other side casing -

What are these 2 pipes?

And lastly, I have these 2 wires. I'm guessing this is to do with the parking brake?

Do I need these?

Sorry for so many questions and pictures in one thread. I'm just keen to get to know my blaster and sort out the problems and restore it back to original.

I have tried downloading the owners manual but as I am on my iPad it doesn't seem to work so I will have to wait until I get onto my work pc.

If someone could simplify my wiring harness that would be great!

Look forward to your responses.

Regards
Dan

 

[Blaaster]

There is no rectifier on a Blaster, they operate on AC, what you see with the blue wire is the voltage regulator and if you run lights you will need it.

Underneath is the CDI unit.

The 2 pipes are for for the oil injection, if the pump is gone you do not need them.

Make sure the injection nipple is blocked of on the carb.

The wires coming from the stator, the yellow/red is for the lighting power, the other 2 go to the CDI unit.

Not starting could be a multitude of matters, compression, reeds, air leak, slipped flywheel, parking brake, fuel starvation, cold start circuit, the list goes on.

 

[Awk08]

the bike appears to be a pre 03 (4 wire stator and parking brake on the brake side.
only pre 03 blasters here in the states have the parking brake on that side, and none that i'm aware of use the parking brake switch cutout,
you have what appears to be a brake light switch on the brake lever.
i also see it has a rear brake light, thats the wires in the last pic.
lets leave brake and headlight wiring for after you get it running at least ?
and yes, you need the "voltage regulator" (blue wire) if you plan to run lights

i do not think you have a "parking brake cutout switch"
they were only on 03+ and located with the park brake lever on the clutch side.

the 2 hoses in the last 2 pics were from the oil injection system, it has been deleted, meaning you must mix your oil with your fuel, most of us like 32:1 with a good oil desinged for dirtbikes,
do not use weedeater/chainsaw/marine oil.

also be sure the brass nipple for the oil injection on the carb is blocked off. it is located up high towards the back on the kicker side of the carb, you may see a piece of that hose remaining with a screw in it ?
be sure it sealed with RTV/silicon and the screw, or use an 1/8" vacuum cap.

you have a CDI box (5 wire), and the TORS box (3 wire) under the hood.
leave the 3 wire tors box disconnected.
plug the 5 wires back into the CDI connections.

here's some wiring diagrams, you'll need to see what you have and what not before we dig into that.........

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/stock-wiring-diagrams-51842/

here's the full manual, click the link, allow the page to load, then "file/save as" to download it........

http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/

 

[Superdan88]

There is no rectifier on a Blaster, they operate on AC, what you see with the blue wire is the voltage regulator and if you run lights you will need it.

Underneath is the CDI unit.

The 2 pipes are for for the oil injection, if the pump is gone you do not need them.

Make sure the injection nipple is blocked of on the carb.

The wires coming from the stator, the yellow/red is for the lighting power, the other 2 go to the CDI unit.

Not starting could be a multitude of matters, compression, reeds, air leak, slipped flywheel, parking brake, fuel starvation, cold start circuit, the list goes on.

So as I am not running lights, I can remove the voltage regulator.
One less thing to worry about!

As for the oil injection I can now undo the side case and remove correctly then.
The injection nipple isn't blocked off on the carb but I will now do this.

As the yellow/red are for the lighting circuit, is it ok just to tape these as I have nothing to connect these too?

 

[Superdan88]

the bike appears to be a pre 03 (4 wire stator and parking brake on the brake side.
only pre 03 blasters here in the states have the parking brake on that side, and none that i'm aware of use the parking brake switch cutout,
you have what appears to be a brake light switch on the brake lever.
i also see it has a rear brake light, thats the wires in the last pic.
lets leave brake and headlight wiring for after you get it running at least ?
and yes, you need the "voltage regulator" (blue wire) if you plan to run lights

i do not think you have a "parking brake cutout switch"
they were only on 03+ and located with the park brake lever on the clutch side.

the 2 hoses in the last 2 pics were from the oil injection system, it has been deleted, meaning you must mix your oil with your fuel, most of us like 32:1 with a good oil desinged for dirtbikes,
do not use weedeater/chainsaw/marine oil.

also be sure the brass nipple for the oil injection on the carb is blocked off. it is located up high towards the back on the kicker side of the carb, you may see a piece of that hose remaining with a screw in it ?
be sure it sealed with RTV/silicon and the screw, or use an 1/8" vacuum cap.

you have a CDI box (5 wire), and the TORS box (3 wire) under the hood.
leave the 3 wire tors box disconnected.
plug the 5 wires back into the CDI connections.

here's some wiring diagrams, you'll need to see what you have and what not before we dig into that.........

http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/stock-wiring-diagrams-51842/

here's the full manual, click the link, allow the page to load, then "file/save as" to download it........

http://www.blasterforum.com/general-support-17/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual-17325/

Many thanks for those links, but for some reason I can't download them on my iPad. Ill have to wait until I get to work!

Regards
Dan

 

[Superdan88]

Right.. After studying the wiring diagram, and spending another 15 mins in the garage, I have the following - I hope I am one step closer and not 5 steps back after cutting this wrongly!

Firstly, I removed th tors brain, and the voltage regulator.

Now I have Coming from the stator plate -

And then these go straight to the CDI unit. [i think]

But then I am still left with 5 cables coming from this box?

Do I join these with the corresponding colours ? Does this male my wiring complete? Or have I messed up big time?

 

[Awk08]

i was wrong above, you have a 5 wire stator, not 4,
meaning thats 03-06 stator.
but appear to have a pre 03 CDI box mounted, yet a 03+ CDI laying on the tire ?
i suggest to use the pre 03 5 wire stator already mounted, which eliminates the internal TORS. and the connections needed to eliminate that


if the wiring harness is still intact ? connect color to color at thr stator connections, ground extra geen wire to frame.


if the wiring harness is hacked up or missing.......


out of the stator =
ground the extra green wire somewhere to the frame

black gets grounded also (originally leads to 3 way ground tap inside harness, but can be manually grounded if thats missing)

yellow/red t-taps to the voltage regulator, then onto the lights/switches

there are 2 wires from the stator that must go to the CDI unit...black/red and white/red.
connected color to color.



out of the CDI =

black/red and white/red connected to same color wires from stator

the black/white goes to both the run/stop switch and key switch if used

the orange wire goes to the coil

black gets grounded



seen here (except the extra green wire out of the stator, that gets grounded to the frame any where convenient)

Page 200 - YFS200 Service Repair Manual (LIT-11616-07-20) - 1988-2006

 

[Superdan88]

Ah! That's why I am extremely confused!

I have 2 Cdis on this bike and I'm thinking what's going on with these excess wires.

Many thanks for your superb reply. I will try again tomorrow and then progress from there.

I will keep you all updated, and will even start a build thread as once she is running the whole bike will be stripped and upgraded.

 

[Superdan88]

Awk08, many thanks for your info.

I rerouted all the wires today and I have a blaster that starts first kicks! Woo

Only problem is I can't even take it for a test ride yet as it doesn't even have brakes....

Onto my next post!

 

[Larry's Shee]

No brakes wouldn't stop me I:I

 

[Blaaster]

No brakes wouldn't stop me I:I

Sig quote material.

No brakes wouldn't stop anything.