LRD/high temp scilicon tape

[Herpderplol]

looking rough. days worth of work will be trying to force it in... if it fits that is. i didnt have a cutting disc so i had to use the plasma

which if anyone has ever used a plasma torch on something small, its not easy.
plus i had it slanted 45 degrees to help get sparks out the bottom and off the inside of the pipe.

 

[BlasterFun484]

Any exhaust/mechanic shop can stretch ur pipe easy. Get 2 1.5 i.d.s n have them stretch one till it fits over the other, i had it done many times, $5 at most

 

[Blaaster]

You can borrow my set if you wish!

 

[Herpderplol]

I don't need to stretch anything, I had to cut out about a quarter inch and reweld to make a smaller pipe.

I finished it today, other than welding the clips that hold the springs on. Which I just got that thin metal at the end of class to bring home clean and bend correctly.

I will be making a few more and selling them to members with this problem. I would give them away for cost, but I just spent 6-7 hours making this one in class. Obviously a second one will be faster, but that's my time frame, one week of class.

 

[Herpderplol]

Finished product. I lied about not being able to get the inner pipe in. It just took a while to get it perfectly round after crushing it. And grinding the weld perfect.

I have to grind and file the lip down a little more on the iside, not sure if anyone cans see it, just not quite smooth

 

[Blaaster]

Nice work Herp!

 

[Herpderplol]

After installing I would only change one little thing.

In the picture that shows the inner and outer pipe, the inner one is back about a quarter inch. I would make it flush with the outer on the next one because the pipe is slightly pulled out when installed. Not to the point where the inner one isn't working, just to the point where it bothers me

 

[Awk08]

awsome fabbing skillz herp !

 

[BlasterFun484]

Sweet, came out great, now for some exhaust paint n ride testing!

 

[Herpderplol]

Sweet, came out great, now for some exhaust paint n ride testing!

I wish I was doing the testing! I haven't ridden since the week before thanksgiving!!

I will be making 2 more this next week and sending them to different members to see how they do. Right now I don't have any of the 1.5 inch ID pipe. Which is a problem I'm going to need to solve by then haha.

I got a piece that I will cut and file down for the inner piece and have those ready. I'm thinking I can make it in 3 days. One for cutting and the other two welding and grinding.

 

[Awk08]

just food for thought............

my CT flange is a double, inner and outer like you're doing,
but....the outer goes the whole way to the flange plate and is welded to it along with the inner.
this allows the pipe to sit way deeper down into the flange, and gives it way more strength against moving around.

I've never seen a flange like you guys are showing, where the outer section ends 1/2 way down the inner.
that only allows what looks to be 1"+ to seal, where mine allows 2"+


all of the 4 different right bends i've had, (F7, CT, LRD, Dynoport)
allowed the pipe to go in, over, or between and sit down completely to the flange plate, right against the cylinder.

 

[Herpderplol]

I know what you mean, and why that would be a better idea.
i can only get 3/4" inside the pipe itself because thats when it starts to expand and there is a weld inside the pipe itself

I would have gone that route if it were possible, but its the pipe. you had the adjustable LRD where you only had sealing problems at the adjustment spot
LRD gladly fixed that terrible leak by moving it down to the flange...

 

[Herpderplol]

tell you what. monday when i cut out more flange pieces, i will bring a blank one home and see how the pipe changes when i press it against the flange.

i know that would work better, but im not sure that would work with this pipe. if i still had my old LRD flange i would try it, but i sent it off to someone

 

[jus_me]

My f7, power pros (whatever it is same thing) is inner abot 3/4? and outer like Awk said I would think if you came out more with the inner it would seal better. My only complaint with mine is there is only 1 spring hook , I wish there were another so I could use 2 springs one opposite each other to keep tighter. You got the concept down though and kudos for doing it !!

 

[Awk08]

oh yeah...have you checked the diameters of 1-1/4" and 1-1/2" thin wall electrical conduit ?

 

[jus_me]

..

 

[armyboyjared]

Just be careful if you use conduit, it's galvinized. Grind the coating off before u weld and keep ur head out of the cloud or you could get metal fume fever.

 

[Herpderplol]

Just be careful if you use conduit, it's galvinized. Grind the coating off before u weld and keep ur head out of the cloud or you could get metal fume fever.

The exhaust piece im using are also galvanized. i ground inside and outside off all piece except the last one. but i had ground where i welded

i knew to do that because i didnt when i did my car exhaust. and that welded like complete garbage. and i also hope to replace it this summer

 

[Herpderplol]

Well apparently we dont have school tomorrow, so hopefully i get all the pieces ready, but it will be harder not having a plasma or die grinder

i also dont have the steel for the base plate so that will have to be wednesdays project (first day of week is classroom day)

 

[o4blastie]

just more food for thought, you were talking about double springing this setup, only problem is I have one mount for one spring on my header pipe how would I get another one on there? I originally decided to buy a used pipe set up to save money seems as if it's going to cost me about the same to get this setup to work which is what I am trying to avoid what are your suggestions? I have put two springs on a header pipe before and rip the bracket off don't want to do that again..