Lil Help Please

BlasterWoman

New Member
Nov 22, 2011
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Well I got this blaster all running and everything now I need some help with my jetting so who's with me on a little help here's what I have.Also whats a good turn on my airscrew and how many on the idler etc. much help needed sorry.

Full procircuit pipe.
VForce 3 reeds and cage
Aggressive Trail Port
Keihin 33mm PWK
UNI airfilter with lid popped off

Its running pretty good but yet it has some lags in it I want it to be just right this will help me out then I will go for a plug chop and report back.

Also might throw in the stator and set it to +4 its a ricky stator.
 
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So I am guessing guys only help guys with the numbers ideas every other jetting thread I am seeing on here they say run this size main for starters with your airscrew set at this turn for starting out
 
If you were running the stock blaster carb, then you'd lots of specific jet advice. Because your running the K-33m, your not getting a lot of advice because only a handful of the forum regulars run those carbs.

I also still run a stock carb, but I'm thinking of going to a 30m soon. My understanding is it takes a lot of test n tune time to get these non-stock carbs dialed in so any advice you get will likely just be a starting point anyway.
 
I am not familiar with a Keihin 33mm PWK, but I can offer this.

It would be advantageous if the present jetting was known and the throttle openings at where the lags occur.

Idle settings are done by trialing positions of idle screw and air screw, they are different on almost every carby.

The ideal procedure for setting the screw in the correct position is to warm up your ATV engine to the proper operating temperature. Then turn the idle up so it is idling about 500 RPM’s higher than normal. Next turn the airscrew all the way in until it bottoms out, once bottomed out slowly back the screw out a ¼ turn at a time (give the engine 10-15 seconds between each ¼ turn of the screw, to allow the engine to catch up with the adjustments). Continue backing the airscrew out until the engine idles at its highest RPM. The preferred setting window is between 1 and 2 turns. If the engine idles at its highest RPM from 0-1 turns out this means the pilot setting is on the Lean side and a larger pilot jet should be installed. If the engine idles at its highest RPM at over 2 turns out, this means the pilot setting is on the Rich side and a smaller pilot jet should be installed.

Jetting may not be the problem, lags can be caused by numerous things, dirt, float height, air leaks.

Firstly check that the carb is clean, what jetting is in there, float height, and do a leak down test.

If then all is well, plug chop and post results with your jetting info, I am pretty sure then someone will pitch in with some numbers for you.
 
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http://www.blasterforum.com/jetting-139/jetting-numbers-solution-17259/
I looked through this thread and only found three running 34, none 33. One 50P,125M, one 50P,150M, one 60P.160M. I would probably start 160M, 50 P, clip middle, 1 1/2 turns on air screw.
As mentioned, telling us what you now have for settings/jetting would help as would a better description of exactly what it's doing at a given throttle opening, or if you are idleing along in first and stab the throttle, is the lag right off idle, halfway up the RPMs, or as it starts to wind out max rpm?
Not being funny, but when it "lags" does it sound flat (WAAAaaaooo) [lean} or does it burble (blubber, fart, snort) [rich,fat] ? Hard for me to describe a sound (or feel). Always start jetting on the rich (fat) side, plugs are cheaper than pistons. I:I

BTW, as to your comment about "you guys", I had to read your posts 3 times and THEN look at your screen name to get what you meant :eek:
Obviously none of us "guys" that have responded are running anything but stock carbs

JMHO, your results may, and will vary :D 8-|
BTW, I love my FAT BASTARD pipe I:I :D
 
Sorry guys for sounding really rude I had a very bad day at work and when I got off I was taking it out on everyone. But here's whats going on I bought a woodruff key from a local shop which was way to wide so I ended up grabbing one a a store would this affect the running aswell, also my lower end really sucks my one ring I found out has a bend in it but I ordered new rings and I ordered another woodruff key from O'connor racing so hopefully this will all make my blaster run right, btw how once i get everything tuned on this thing do versus a z400 any ideas?
 
Your going to need a good bit more work to run with a Z400. With real good ridding skills you make be able to take a Z400 on some wood trails but you being a female, I don't see that happening. Lol/jk.
 
Thats alot of mods from what I was told by a few guys who race blasters they say I should have no problems at all I already had this thing running with a ltr450 my fiances friend was impressed at me keeping up with them on the road.And the timing advance should help out alot more aswell, this thing has alot of good top end first gear is pretty nasty but second and up is weird I also have a banshee too this is just my trail machine my friend wants to get a yfz450 I said once mines all together right here he will have fun trying to keep up with me on them trails.

Heres a pic of it 400 bucks-
 
HHMMMMMMMMMMM, been almost a week 8-| Not that any of us "guys" ever have a bad day at work :eek:

Look at your piston and cylinder real close for any damage from the ring. If it looks good just get cylinder honed and put new rings in. I:I
 
After honing cylinder wash it with dish soap several times until a paper towel comes out clean when wiped, dry it real good, then coat cylinder with oil to avoid flash rust. Don't know how we went from carb tuning to re-ring job.

Not BSing about washing cyl, have to get all honing residue out/off of cyl
 
Almost a week cause I work and I don't check the internet everyday, but I did tear it down new rings and flipped my reeds I am due for new ones soon but shes running alot better and the cylinder was pefect shape its still making a wierd noise that sounded like it was in the top end, I don't know what it is the crank and connecting arm seems to be in great shape no play so I have to figure that out next.