anyone know where i could get some super bright L.E.D lights that will work with wally lights? thanks
LED Lights
- Thread starter 88' blaster
- Start date
You cannot use LED lights on an AC lighting system.
It has to be DC and (if possible) DC to DC converted and balanced for best results.
It has to be DC and (if possible) DC to DC converted and balanced for best results.
there has been other bro's find an LED replacement bulb for the wally lights on ebay, and even complete lights with them already in, i just saw some the other day,
YB had converted his before too, and they look aweful bright, but do not throw the beam out far enuf for me to ride at night, at speed, because they lack a reflector behind the bulb, so if all you wanna do is look cool....go for it
otherwise stick to the wally's
YB had converted his before too, and they look aweful bright, but do not throw the beam out far enuf for me to ride at night, at speed, because they lack a reflector behind the bulb, so if all you wanna do is look cool....go for it
otherwise stick to the wally's
i just want some extremely bright lights like the blue lights in newer cars now. not white. when i ride at night i want to be able to see
Blasters have a possible 75 watt total output from a Ricky stator HO stator.
If you figure the regulator knocks off voltage about ~14 VAC, that leaves you with about 5 amps to work with which is obviously not to work with above the wally lights.
Most automobile light bulbs take ~55 watts but produce far greater light output than the blaster headlight. Part of the reason is because they are voltage regulated FAR better than the lighting circuit on the blaster. You would be hard pressed to get anything to perform much better than the wally lights without extensive electrical work.
You would have to start with a DC conversion and a battery balance. You could then figure up your voltage surplus and put two bulbs on your blaster. One flood and one spot. The spot would shine far away, the flood up close. It would probably look a little wierd but it would work great...
If you figure the regulator knocks off voltage about ~14 VAC, that leaves you with about 5 amps to work with which is obviously not to work with above the wally lights.
Most automobile light bulbs take ~55 watts but produce far greater light output than the blaster headlight. Part of the reason is because they are voltage regulated FAR better than the lighting circuit on the blaster. You would be hard pressed to get anything to perform much better than the wally lights without extensive electrical work.
You would have to start with a DC conversion and a battery balance. You could then figure up your voltage surplus and put two bulbs on your blaster. One flood and one spot. The spot would shine far away, the flood up close. It would probably look a little wierd but it would work great...
you can run led's on the stock stator system , BUT heres the skinny . YOU HAVE TO INSTALL BEFORE THE LIGHT , a load simulator . The problem with LED lights is they have almost NO resistance at all , combined with a stator that puts out sloppy voltage and a voltage regulator that isn't exactly state of the art technology . The Voltage Spikes are what kill the LED bulbs , thats what happened to me and YB's lights . So the cure is a LED Load simulator that " absorbs " 15 watts , or 25 watts of power . so it only allows 3-4 watts peak through the simulator , its basically just a resistor .
i just wanted that blue look wether it be tinting the light or a special bulb. but i do want extremely bright lights
The stock stator could run a single HID bulb , the problem is the 60 watts it takes to " kick over " the HID , once its burning your retinas , it only uses 20-25 watts . You just need a jolt of enough juice to get the bulb hot enough to activate the gases inside . You could use a battery on the blaster to kick it over and the stator could run it , you'd just have to keep the battery charged from time to time to make sure it has juice when you need it . OR , and this is MY idea , is to use a Capacitor ( stores energy ) and is used to kick on the HID's , and also act as a Balancer for the electrical system . so your lights will stay bright even at idle . I've been thinking about this idea for awhile , I'm actually making a Blaster Wiring Harness for it that eliminates all the tors crap and excess wiring thats left over when you take the Tors off . It will also have a couple of extra leads for strobes and Accent Lights ( Kinda useless but when you see a dunefest lightshow , its pretty sweet lookin )
How do you get an LED to work on an AC system? Half of the time the voltage is going the wrong way.
You can get the blue look but you aren't going to get extremely bright lights. A seller on ebay sells a replacement bulb for the newer model blasters. If you had the bulb you could modify your headlight assembly to accept the blue bulb.
You can get the blue look but you aren't going to get extremely bright lights. A seller on ebay sells a replacement bulb for the newer model blasters. If you had the bulb you could modify your headlight assembly to accept the blue bulb.
Just do a DC conversion and battery system. That would be enough power to kick it on in the battery and then the stator would charge the battery for you and run the lighting.
where could a person like my self buy these parts and also if u make a harness for all of thAt hit me up with a price, i would like one
AC to DC converter with a balance system like the transformer in the base of a CFL? I assumed that's the way they got LED's to work on house current.
A led is fundamentally an electrical one-way switch. It illuminates when voltage is passing the correct way through it's voltage bridge.
I mean I guess LED's would work on AC power but they would only illuminate half the time and with half the intensity. The super HO ones are right on the haggard edge as far as heat and voltage are concerned and would be rather fragile to run in a system as poorly controlled as the blaster electrical system.
A led is fundamentally an electrical one-way switch. It illuminates when voltage is passing the correct way through it's voltage bridge.
I mean I guess LED's would work on AC power but they would only illuminate half the time and with half the intensity. The super HO ones are right on the haggard edge as far as heat and voltage are concerned and would be rather fragile to run in a system as poorly controlled as the blaster electrical system.
if i were to put a battery in say the "tool box" area of the blaster(the very back behind the air box) and convert to DC how hard would it be to wire up and how costly
What do you think the 12V Regulator does? its a Rectifier converts ac voltage to dc voltage for the lights .
I was replying to awk, he said ;
If you did a DC conversion, you could do the wiring yourself. It's not difficult (really, it's not)
You need a trail tech regulator/rectifier and a Ricky stator 75watt lighting coil (you don't have to have the upgrade coil but the stock coil hardly has enough power to light the stock headlights).
Trailtech has instructions for wiring their regulator rectifier kit on their website.
If you did a DC conversion, you could do the wiring yourself. It's not difficult (really, it's not)
You need a trail tech regulator/rectifier and a Ricky stator 75watt lighting coil (you don't have to have the upgrade coil but the stock coil hardly has enough power to light the stock headlights).
Trailtech has instructions for wiring their regulator rectifier kit on their website.
Your stock regulator does the same job as the Ricky stator unit , but the aftermarket unit converts the " quality " of the voltage it's getting , it smooths out the sinewaves and gives a constant voltage and can correct spikes in voltage far faster than the little oem solid state POS .
The stock voltage regulator acts as a straight short to ground for the voltage output of the stator for any voltage over 14 VAC.
I will agree it does a relatively poor job of that but that is not the same job this regulator rectifier does:
http://www.trailtech.net/7003-RR150.html
That regulator does knock off all voltage above 14VDC but it also diode corrects the ac voltage to DC voltage.
With that regulator/rectifier, you could do a DC conversion and run some fairly high power LED's off of the battery balanced system.
It may still require a load resistor... (don't doubt you on that one) but it would be MUCH better balanced and more likely to keep the bulbs from burning out.
Plus they wouldn't flicker at idle...
I will agree it does a relatively poor job of that but that is not the same job this regulator rectifier does:
http://www.trailtech.net/7003-RR150.html
That regulator does knock off all voltage above 14VDC but it also diode corrects the ac voltage to DC voltage.
With that regulator/rectifier, you could do a DC conversion and run some fairly high power LED's off of the battery balanced system.
It may still require a load resistor... (don't doubt you on that one) but it would be MUCH better balanced and more likely to keep the bulbs from burning out.
Plus they wouldn't flicker at idle...
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