Just got back from the Sand Dunes few questions..

I had a Blast at Pismo Beach ran into a few Blasters out there!
1.10 minutes of riding I realized my chain was sagging and skipping..I installed a new chain/sprocket and adjusted the top and bottom bolt but I did not adjust the bottom 2 screws so I guess it wasnt set. So I drove back to my truck and adjusted them..Hopefully I didn't mess anything up :-( It ran great after that.

2.Whats the best way to clean this sand off my chain?? Pressure water?

3.I raced my friends rented 250 EX Quads and they beat me 1st 2 times because I started in 1st and kept peeling out, When I started in 2nd I beat them buy 3 atv lengths!!

4. A lot of times when I came to a stop with my hand on the clutch still the blaster died out? Could be my idle set too low? I cranked the idle screw under the seat up a little more to idle louder and it seamed to work?
 
Also I was riding with the choke open, After riding for a wild in 70 Degree F heat I closed the choke and the idle shot threw the roof!??! What is going on here? Is this how you ride with the choke closed after its warm up.

I bet a penny to a pinch of crap that you have an air leak or a fuel restriction.

If you pressure wash your chain you will blow dirt particles into the links.

Brush off the sand and wash the chain with a light oil to remove the congealed oil and dirt.
 
Is the float level correct?
Do you have crap in the petcock or needle and seat restricting air flow?
Is the pilot jet clean?

Idle adjusting.

Set float level.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
he turned his idle way up..... thats his problem so he opened choke to compensate.....

my guess about it dying would be your clutch isnt adjusted correctly
 
he turned his idle way up..... thats his problem so he opened choke to compensate.....

my guess about it dying would be your clutch isnt adjusted correctly

But cranking up the idle screw would also cause more fuel to flow if the fuel was available and the passages were not obstructed.
 
With the choke open, it will idle super low once its warmed up, causing you to turn the idle WAY up.

Turn off the choke and it goes to what you have the idle set at which is insane
 
I think herp and gis is right. I checked fuel hose its cleanas a whistle no obstructions. Ok so I will close choke and turn idle back down using the screw under the seat

Let us get this right for the benefit of others.

Did you pull out the choke first to make the motor run well in the high temps and then have to crank up the idle screw to keep it from stalling.

OR

Did you crank up the idle screw to increase the idle and have to compensate for a lean mix by partially pulling out the fuel enrichment knob.

There are two different ways of approaching this problem.

Idle adjusting.

Set float level.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
 
Yea Let me explain, I pull out the choke slightly to start it...Then I have been riding around in 65-70 Degree F Sand Dunes for 3-4 hours with it left open. I noticed that it idles pretty low at times while its open, so out of curiosity while I was out there, I decided to close the choke after riding for 2 hrs. WHat I noticed is the IDle shot straight up very loud so I opened it back up to bring the idle back down. BUT last week I turned the idle screw up with the choke open to get the idle up. SO I believe that Originally the idle was low last week with choke open so I turned screw up to make the idle higher. So I think I should close the choke and adjust the idle screw back down to idle lower and ride with choke closed from now on.
Also is there a way to adjust the rear swing arm to have the blaster sit higher while keeping the chain tesion the same? It seems like it lowered a bit after adjusting the swing arm
 
Never ride with the choke open, unless its a first gear warm-up....

once your engine is warm, opening the choke causes the idle to drop, causing low idle. Your turning the idle up to get a normal with it on made the idle without choke on extremely high
 
I noticed that it idles pretty low at times while its open, so out of curiosity while I was out there, I decided to close the choke after riding for 2 hrs. WHat I noticed is the IDle shot straight up very loud so I opened it back up to bring the idle back down. \

Maybe, just maybe, the choke is masking and air leak of a jetting discrepancy.

Warm up the motor, adjust the idle correctly and leave it alone.

Changes in temperature will cause the motor to perform differently.

Sometimes when experiencing major differences in temp you may have to alter the idle setting but the air screw must be adjusted too to compensate for the extra amount of air.

If the temps differ by more than 10degs then a jetting/needle clip or an oil ratio change should made.
 
just out of curiosity, why is it bad to run with the choke open? I thought it made the bike run rich not lean so why is it bad? (not saying it's normal to run the choke on during the entire duration you ride, just wondering why it's bad to do so)