Jug came loose while riding

the bottom end requires about $80 is specialty tools to disassemble appropriately. and there are a lot of pieces in there, it isnt for the faint of heart, i know i wont do it, yet anyways.
 
the bottom end requires about $80 is specialty tools to disassemble appropriately. and there are a lot of pieces in there, it isnt for the faint of heart, i know i wont do it, yet anyways.

Hmm wondering if i want to give it awhirl, I am an auto tech, But my machine guy steve stack will most likely be doing it. he has rebuilt blastys alot and as this was my first time so.
 
ok just want to make sure you know something. you shouldn't have any gear oil coming out of the crank or exhaust. the crank is 100% sealed from the tranny or so it should be.
 
ok just want to make sure you know something. you shouldn't have any gear oil coming out of the crank or exhaust. the crank is 100% sealed from the tranny or so it should be.

Ok cool, thanks sheeblast. Got a question. if the crank is sealed fromt the tranny how does the tranny get and lubercation or does it have a seperate place to put in gear oil or what have it ?
 
the crank gets lube from either the premix gas you used or from the oil injection that come stock on the blaster.
blasters come stock with an oil injection kit. you put oil into a bottle on the back of the quad. it is then pumped into the carb at a set ratio.
but many people take these off and premix the gas themselves.
 
the crank gets lube from either the premix gas you used or from the oil injection that come stock on the blaster.
blasters come stock with an oil injection kit. you put oil into a bottle on the back of the quad. it is then pumped into the carb at a set ratio.
but many people take these off and premix the gas themselves.

Correct, I deleted my oil inj setup as it was not working so i premix 50:1 with basic 2cycle oil from advance auto. was just wondering how the tranny got lubercation ? or is that what the gear oil is for ? see the problem i had was the first time i rode it it would shift really hard or not want to shift at all, so i noticed i did not have enough gear oil in. so i filled it above the sight glass thinking that was my problem. then the jug decided to come loose lol while i was riding.
 
the gear oil is for the tranny and clutch. i would suggest using ATF type F since it is cheap and works great.
the 50:1 premix is a little lean for an aircooled motor, i would suggest running it closer to 32:1. also you put too much into the tranny, if you over fill it, it will cause problems. you might have blown a crank seal.
 
the gear oil is for the tranny and clutch. i would suggest using ATF type F since it is cheap and works great.
the 50:1 premix is a little lean for an aircooled motor, i would suggest running it closer to 32:1. also you put too much into the tranny, if you over fill it, it will cause problems. you might have blown a crank seal.

Oh ok i will try that out i have an abundance of ATF in my garage. I used valvoline 4stroke motorcycle oil in the tranny before but took it out as i wasnt sure it would be ok or not.

OOOH I did not know that 50:1 was to lean for it. i just did that as that is what i use for my chainsaws and leafblower haha. Now does it matter the brand of 2cycle i use for ny blasty ? As I use the cheap coastal stuff that u can buy at wal-mart or any autoparts place. Would i have to pull the whole botom end apart to change the crank seals ? as in spliting the bottom end ? thank you

~Brian
 
no sure about the seal, never done one.
but i have used every kind of premix oil. i like castrol style oil because of the smell, but i had a banshee with well over 5 years of hard riding without a rebuild. reason i say running it richer is because the oil also helps keep your engine cooler.
if you change the premix ratio, you should also change your jetting.
and for the atf, make sure it is type F.
 
no sure about the seal, never done one.
but i have used every kind of premix oil. i like castrol style oil because of the smell, but i had a banshee with well over 5 years of hard riding without a rebuild. reason i say running it richer is because the oil also helps keep your engine cooler.
if you change the premix ratio, you should also change your jetting.
and for the atf, make sure it is type F.

Oh ok. I will google about the crank seals. I will have to check out the castrol oil.
How would i go about changing my jetting ? I have a 240 jet in there now.
 
I would have, But i do not have a manual. A a friend of mine use to work at troy city garage, a atv/dirtbike/sled repair and retail shop. and he said it all was good go ahead and ride it. sooo takign his so called expert advice it went poop.

This forum is your manual. All you have to do is look and read.
 
Quote from "Ken O'Connor" "Oil is inexpensive, top ends are expensive". With that being said, I would suggest running a higher quality premix oil. When I had my blaster (before i sold it to my gpa), I was running Bel Ray. I think we both decided to switch to Yamaha 2R. We are gonna mix at 32:1, and I'm not sure with the jetting because it is going to Phoenix, which is warmer and has a different altitude. If you dont feel comfortable running Yamalube, when I first bought my Blaster, it was running on Castrol Grand Prix 2 stroke oil. I dont think Castrol makes it anymore but it was some good stuff.... I wish I didnt switch
 
Quote from "Ken O'Connor" "Oil is inexpensive, top ends are expensive". With that being said, I would suggest running a higher quality premix oil. When I had my blaster (before i sold it to my gpa), I was running Bel Ray. I think we both decided to switch to Yamaha 2R. We are gonna mix at 32:1, and I'm not sure with the jetting because it is going to Phoenix, which is warmer and has a different altitude. If you dont feel comfortable running Yamalube, when I first bought my Blaster, it was running on Castrol Grand Prix 2 stroke oil. I dont think Castrol makes it anymore but it was some good stuff.... I wish I didnt switch

Is yamalube a bad oil ? honestly i did not think it really matterd about the premix oil. I just thought the deralerships charged you more for the heck of it. =]
 
u dont need to split the cases to change crank seals....ones behind the clutch assembly or the (primary drive gear) and the other is behind the flywheel and stator
 
also, dude why did u keep riding when u noticed that the jug was loose....that was a costly decision there

I noticed it after i got it to the garage, I thought that maybe i sucked water in the carb somehow. then when i got the the garage i was moving the exhaust and i noticed the jug was moving. but i towed it to the garage. i wish it never happend but nothing i can do now but tear it down and take a peek.