whats up guys my name is johnny and I have a 1998 blaster. I bought it 100% stock with great compression 2nd hand for $800. Beautiful condition stock with stock tires and great tread on them so very minimal signs of being street ridden. Oil injector delete. Mods I've done to it are 1-1/2" front wheel spacers and front wheel flip for meow offset, 2" rear lug spacers, 14t front sprocket, 270 main jet, 37.5 pilot jet, FMF gold header, FMF power core 2 "silencer" (lol basically straight a pipe) K&N air filter and pulled off that stupid snorkel scoop, and I just purchased 10/18r8 tires (i think) and the power has dramatically increased but there is no more top end. Any suggested sprocket size for the rear to compensate for the smaller tire size? I was considering dropping from 39 teeth to 30-33. Any suggestions? Also any other free or cheapish mods to increase power? Also once it's rebuild time I'm getting a +.040 piston rebuild kit. Any suggestions are welcome
Johnny from New York!
- Thread starter JohnnyBertone
- Start date
Welcome, sounds like you have a good start to a nice quad
37.5 is very very rich for an fmf with no other mods. im surprised you dont foul plugs at half throttle. i did with a 35.0 and went to stock 32.5 with good results
as for the sprockets. 40 is stock rear size. 13 front. obviously 14 up front will help you with top end.
remember, 1 tooth larger on the front is the same as 3 smaller on the back. so if you fit a 15t front you will have changed it a lot
you cannot fit a 30 tooth on the rear, probably not even with another hub. 38 is common, 36 requires a different hub
honestly i dont think the blaster could pull a 30. not enough power being as stock as yours.
also, if you change one gear, or the chain, you must change all 3 pieces.
this is essential. if you put a new chain on old sprockets it will stretch and possible snap
vice versa new sprockets and old chain causes binding which is also bad!
37.5 is very very rich for an fmf with no other mods. im surprised you dont foul plugs at half throttle. i did with a 35.0 and went to stock 32.5 with good results
as for the sprockets. 40 is stock rear size. 13 front. obviously 14 up front will help you with top end.
remember, 1 tooth larger on the front is the same as 3 smaller on the back. so if you fit a 15t front you will have changed it a lot
you cannot fit a 30 tooth on the rear, probably not even with another hub. 38 is common, 36 requires a different hub
honestly i dont think the blaster could pull a 30. not enough power being as stock as yours.
also, if you change one gear, or the chain, you must change all 3 pieces.
this is essential. if you put a new chain on old sprockets it will stretch and possible snap
vice versa new sprockets and old chain causes binding which is also bad!
I'm not sure I could fit a 15t sprocket on the front I had to do some trimming to fit the 14 on there so I might possibly get both a 36t and get a size up in tired as these tires are a little dry rotted. And it's either a 37.5 or a 35 I'm thinking it might be a 35 piolet jet
Also with a 40 over bore do you think the jetting I have in place now is good? Or will it be too lean
a .040 bore will not change your jetting.
to make a 15t fit you need to cut the stator cover guard off and grind it back
you will need to find a compatible hub for the 36t rear.
why do you want to go so fast? blasters are best in the trails.
with the gearing you want your poor engine will struggle a lot
to make a 15t fit you need to cut the stator cover guard off and grind it back
you will need to find a compatible hub for the 36t rear.
why do you want to go so fast? blasters are best in the trails.
with the gearing you want your poor engine will struggle a lot
I only assumed the bore would have more combustion area and would want more air and fuel to combust and make power in the bigger chamber. Also I do ride my quad on the street sometimes and I don't want it to be screaming in 6th gear doing 25 mph.
And when I say I ride it on the street I don't mean "we goin on a rideout in queens F the cops we out here 12:00 boys wheelies with the hoes on the back" but I just like to putt around my neighborhood on it
stock gearing with 18" tires and an fmf i did 57 on a road. maybe i had 14-40 gearing not sure. that was a few years ago on ole red
a bore is generally cutting a few thousandths of an inch away to make a new smooth cylinder. a new piston will be fitted to the bore.
this is done when the rings wear out, the cylinder is damaged etc.
the only way it truly make a difference is if it is a true big bore.
which is 8mm bigger than stock and adds between 36cc and 40cc to the engine. hence 240cc AKA big bore
a bore is generally cutting a few thousandths of an inch away to make a new smooth cylinder. a new piston will be fitted to the bore.
this is done when the rings wear out, the cylinder is damaged etc.
the only way it truly make a difference is if it is a true big bore.
which is 8mm bigger than stock and adds between 36cc and 40cc to the engine. hence 240cc AKA big bore
Yeah I was planning the 40 over bore or the 240 kit. But getting the head Machined and the bigger piston is still cheaper than the $200+ 240 kit from Vito's
Stock gearing with 20" rear tires will get you a nice top speed. Proper jetting will get you running corectly and up to that top speed the quickest. Get jetted corectly first then see if you still want to mess with gearing. One of the cheapest/free mods is proper tuning and maintenance.
I have 20" tires and 14-40 gearing and i pulled away from my dads wr250. on the top end too which i was surprised. i might have hit 70 idk
you got anymore pictures of the quad? we all love pictures. (if you have a picture while riding, you must be wearing a helmet. forum rules)
you got anymore pictures of the quad? we all love pictures. (if you have a picture while riding, you must be wearing a helmet. forum rules)
I don't have many I'll try to get more. And yes I ALWAYS wear a helmet because that's just like common sense lol.. And I mean unless I'm going literally 2 houses over to my friend's I'm always wearing a helmet
So a quick update I just re-read through this and I ended up going a different route. I got rid of those dry rotted 18s and I got bazooka 20s, v-force 4 reeds (holy sh*t what a difference) and my compression was a little low so I just did a stock bore rebuild with a Neumara piston (cylinder was decent will have to bore for the next rebuild)
I run it on 93 octane 32:1 oil and when I have it wide open it pulls the front wheels off the ground 1st -4th. I love it! Next mods are still going to be either big bore kit or banshee swing arm
I run it on 93 octane 32:1 oil and when I have it wide open it pulls the front wheels off the ground 1st -4th. I love it! Next mods are still going to be either big bore kit or banshee swing arm
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YOU CAN NOT FIT A banshee swing arm on a blaster you can buy a +2,3,4, etc but not a shee swing arm on a blaster
No shee's swinger is going to work.
Best bet is to look for a swingarm shop extended arm on ebay. Pick a length you feel will suit you well. They can be had for about $$225-$250.
One note of advise. Their powder coating didn't last long for me. 1 season, and it was cracking and flaking off.
Best bet is to look for a swingarm shop extended arm on ebay. Pick a length you feel will suit you well. They can be had for about $$225-$250.
One note of advise. Their powder coating didn't last long for me. 1 season, and it was cracking and flaking off.
I mean the swing arm doesn't matter to me I'm not drag racing the thing and it's actually really easy to wheelie. On dirt of course. No on the road. For blocks at a time. Anyway yea swing arm is last thing I'll do to the thing if I ever get to it
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