im new to the blaster and this carb is confusing me
- Thread starter wspider3
- Start date
For now at least unplug the TORS brain under the hood, 3wire plug. If you have an 03+ you'll have to search, it's a little more involved, not hard at all though.
So you have a stock head pipe (expansion chamber) and DG silencer? And UNI filter , no lid correct? You probably should be running a 240 maybe even a 250 main jet.
So you have a stock head pipe (expansion chamber) and DG silencer? And UNI filter , no lid correct? You probably should be running a 240 maybe even a 250 main jet.
DG pipe usually needs a #250 main
Uni air filter + 1
No lid + 2
That is #280 main. Plug chop to confirm.
32:1 Premix if you have it is + 1 more.
Cold weather + 1 or 2 more.
just to update on the blaster. i got it all fixed up and going good took it out today for it first time, unloaded it drove down a hill and the clutch cable broke on me X( so back home it came. i will say it was a fun ride down that hill. thanks again for everyones help.
with no lid and a stock main,that engine won't last too long.A main het is like $2.50 vs. a engine rebuild? not to mention no leakdown test.scary crap right there.
ok i got the clutch cable on and the idle still isn't rite so after messing with it more i think i have another problem the blaster was sitting un my garage while i was looking around for somethings. i heard a hissing noise and a lot of oil came out of the bottom of the engine. it looks like it is coming from behind the sprocket so what do i do now?
Firstly clean up the puddle of oil and then lay underneath to see where the oil seems to be coming from.
I would look for you but my neck is not quite long enough.
It may pay to do a leak test to see if the gearbox a is being pressurised by the crancase.
I would look for you but my neck is not quite long enough.
It may pay to do a leak test to see if the gearbox a is being pressurised by the crancase.
Pull the vent hose off the engine and see if you can blow through it. Mine got plugged by a mud dauber wasp and it literly blew the sprocket seal out of the case. Leak test is still a good idea.
Easy peasy. Remove shift lever, left cover (foot peg first? dunno), two bolts for sprocket, sprocket. Clean area real good run 1-2 drywall screws into seal to pull seal out. clean shaft so some masking tape will stick. One layer of tape on shaft to protect new seal. Pack inside of seal with grease(spring goes inwards). Use whatever is handy to Lightly/gently drive new seal, stopping when seal is flush with case. Install remaining parts, little loctite on sprocket screws won't hurt.
Thanks again everyone for your help i have pulled the sprocket and the seal is blown out for sure. this may b a dumb question but can i do a compression test on it before i replace the seal? it will b a week before the seals come in but i want to make sure my top end is fine. i know i have a leak so a leak down test at this point would b pointless rite? sorry for all the questions. one more do i need to start a new thread since im off topic from where this started?
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