ok i just got my blaster a couple of days ago. the guy i got it from said it was racemoded. well i just want to ride trails and stuff like that. so here is my problem i can not get it to idle. it u disconnect the tors the idle is way high well i look in the carb the piston is half way up already how do i get that lower or is that even a problem
im new to the blaster and this carb is confusing me
- Thread starter wspider3
- Start date
the clips on the needle may need to be moved up but you need to leak test the bike first and what are your mods and what is your jetting
you can adjust the idle by turning the idle screw clockwise to increase idle and counter clockwise to decrease the idle. as for the if thats all the way in i dont think it is but wait for a second opion
as far as the mods go all i know is it was bored 50 over i think it has a dg pipe on it but the expansion chamber is stock I'm not sure on the jetting. is the piston supposed to b that high in the carb? i turn that screw on top and it either kills it or does nothing.
Is the slide in backwards?
Is the slide jammbing?
Is the needle bent.
Is the little brass pin located in the slot in the slide?
Has the TORS dropped its guts?
Is the cable too tight?
Is the slide jammbing?
Is the needle bent.
Is the little brass pin located in the slot in the slide?
Has the TORS dropped its guts?
Is the cable too tight?
maybe try cleaning the idle circuit area make sure u have the correct float height and is it jetted correctly?
X2 on the slide bottoming out. I can't stand on my head well enough to tell 
, but is the needle even IN the main jet? Is the cable into the nipple on top of carb? Is the T.O.R.S. device (brick) still on the carb or do you have a simple round cap? No matter, remove the top of the carb, disconnect the slide from cable and see if slide will bottom out in the carb body. The angled "cutaway" faces the air cleaner, and the little tang in the side of the carb body goes into the slot on slide. Make sure the tang is pointing up and down. Does the slide now move in body easily? If yes then take tors brick apart and clean and lube it. Hold end of long cable and operate throttle to see if it's sticking. Pull cover off throttle and make sure every thing is good in there, cean and lube it and cable. I don't remember how/where stock cable is adjusted, but you have to make sure there is slack in cable to where there is some movement on thumb lever before cable even moves any.
At this point you have most everything torn apart, might as well gi the carb a good cleaning. There are "stickies" on the forum (somewhere) for carb cleaning, float setting, and a download repair manual. These will all help you. Basically you have to start from ground zero on carb adjustments. Speaking of which, on left side of carb by air cleaner side is a brass screw, gently turn it in counting number of turns, remember or write it down and also post the info please. It's a clue. Also record and post main jet size and maybe clip posistion.
, but is the needle even IN the main jet? Is the cable into the nipple on top of carb? Is the T.O.R.S. device (brick) still on the carb or do you have a simple round cap? No matter, remove the top of the carb, disconnect the slide from cable and see if slide will bottom out in the carb body. The angled "cutaway" faces the air cleaner, and the little tang in the side of the carb body goes into the slot on slide. Make sure the tang is pointing up and down. Does the slide now move in body easily? If yes then take tors brick apart and clean and lube it. Hold end of long cable and operate throttle to see if it's sticking. Pull cover off throttle and make sure every thing is good in there, cean and lube it and cable. I don't remember how/where stock cable is adjusted, but you have to make sure there is slack in cable to where there is some movement on thumb lever before cable even moves any.At this point you have most everything torn apart, might as well gi the carb a good cleaning. There are "stickies" on the forum (somewhere) for carb cleaning, float setting, and a download repair manual. These will all help you. Basically you have to start from ground zero on carb adjustments. Speaking of which, on left side of carb by air cleaner side is a brass screw, gently turn it in counting number of turns, remember or write it down and also post the info please. It's a clue. Also record and post main jet size and maybe clip posistion.
BTW
DIRT PILE ! ! !
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DIRT PILE ! ! !
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ok thank you all for your help so far. i have cleaned the carb but i will check the main jet size the air screw is all the 1 and a half turns out. the problem i see is the cable that hooks on to the slide and goes into the tors is not long enough to let the slid go down any more.
You need to get that slide to go all the way down. There is a slot on the slide that has to align inside the carb. We need some pictures of the side of the carb. Does it have a big silver tors unit on the top of carb. If so your idle screw is on that. You need to turn that screw counter clockwise (I believe) until the slide goes all the way down. Also screw in your adjustment at the throttle all until you get a little play on the thumb lever. I would say the slide has to be aligned and the needle has to be dropping in the main jet. If not the cab wouldnt go on. Do this and report back with pics.
ok i think i fixed it ill try and make this make sense if i can. where the slide hooks onto the cable it was hooked at the top of the metal piece in stead of on the notch on the cable so that held it open im not sure if that makes sense but i will try it tomorrow and see if it does what i need it to do
That will do it. MAKE SURE YOU GIVE AN UPDATE. It's posts like this that help other members when they use the search tab. Also make sure it's a 230 main jet. Wouldn't hurt to do the leak down test too.
ok the pin is moved to the middle. the jet is a 230 for sure. i dont have the stuff to do a leak down test at this point but it is up and running like a champ thank you all so much for your help. now one last question should i remove the TORS or just leave it?
I say if its running with no problems, just leave it - But other people have a dif. opinion, so it's up to you. I:I
Lets get everything straight, you are running a stock setup, no aftermarket pipe, stock air filter with the airbox lid on, and oil injection.
If the float and idle is set correctly a #230 main jet and needle on middle slot will do just fine.
Any mods will need a larger jet.
As to the TORS you must make the descision wether to remove it or not.
I can offer that it can be a pain in the preverbial if it plays up. I recall a few members having a long walk back from the woods brought on by a troublesome TORS.
If the float and idle is set correctly a #230 main jet and needle on middle slot will do just fine.
Any mods will need a larger jet.
As to the TORS you must make the descision wether to remove it or not.
I can offer that it can be a pain in the preverbial if it plays up. I recall a few members having a long walk back from the woods brought on by a troublesome TORS.
Well just look at that.
You caught the one thing none of us suggested :-[ And now you know your carb real good. I:I
You have
GREEN !!!
GREEN !!!
You caught the one thing none of us suggested :-[ And now you know your carb real good. I:I
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