I have a small problem.

[Gene]

My son has an 05 blaster and the other day it developed a problem the best way for me to explain it is it's missing, hesitates in first gear. If I'm in first and hold the throttle at a steady pace it appears as if I loose spark momentarily, I loose all power then it quickly starts to run again. If it's in neutral and I hold the throttle just above idle it does the same thing and even back fires a little, it will run fine then all of a sudden a back fire.. I just put a Fatty and a Power Core on it but we had this problem prior to. I did replace the plug hoping that would solve the problem but no luck.... Could I be loosing power to the coil or something? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.. The quad is stock aside from the FMF system.. I have not checked the floats, I'm almost positive it's not flooding.. One more bit of info, I can go through all the gears WOT and it runs like a champ...
Thanks In advance.

 

[bansheedave]

sounds like your getting an electrical issue. check all the grounds and wire connections. if you have the correct tool, pull the flywheel and check for rust. if you have a service manual, follow the manual and test the coil and stator for a possible issue. if all those are good, your ignition box might be going out. but that's a last resort. have you rejetted for the pipe? I know you said you had the issue prior, but I would hate to have you develop another issue on top of another one.

 

[Gene]

Thanks. Sounds li

My son has an 05 blaster and the other day it developed a problem the best way for me to explain it is it's missing, hesitates in first gear. If I'm in first and hold the throttle at a steady pace it appears as if I loose spark momentarily, I loose all power then it quickly starts to run again. If it's in neutral and I hold the throttle just above idle it does the same thing and even back fires a little, it will run fine then all of a sudden a back fire.. I just put a Fatty and a Power Core on it but we had this problem prior to. I did replace the plug hoping that would solve the problem but no luck.... Could I be loosing power to the coil or something? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.. The quad is stock aside from the FMF system.. I have not checked the floats, I'm almost positive it's not flooding.. One more bit of info, I can go through all the gears WOT and it runs like a champ...

 

[Gene]

Thanks. Sounds like some really good info. I do recall seeing seeing rust around the fly wheel over the winter. My son went out for a ride in the snow and developed a clutch problem I pulled the cover off and stopped there, for some unknown reason his problem went away. So with that said that's where I'm going to start. Stay tuned lol....

 

[Gene]

Ye

sounds like your getting an electrical issue. check all the grounds and wire connections. if you have the correct tool, pull the flywheel and check for rust. if you have a service manual, follow the manual and test the coil and stator for a possible issue. if all those are good, your ignition box might be going out. but that's a last resort. have you rejetted for the pipe? I know you said you had the issue prior, but I would hate to have you develop another issue on top of another one.[/QUOTE

 

[Gene]

Yes I did re jet the carb. Per the instructions I set the needle at the 3rd groove and started tuning the carb with two turns out on the air screw.
40-1 mix klotz.

 

[speedyslyder]

backfire sound electrical,and or tors,40-1 mix is 3.2 oz per gallon,32-1 is 4 oz per gallon most of use run 32-1 mix,is tors still connected? or do you have stock clutch lever and perch on there.that parking brake can mess it up although you say it runs fine after 1st in all gears,def clean ground wires you can start at the one under gas tank on spark plug boot assembly.

 

[Blaaster]

If you still have the TORS fitted it could be malfunctioning.

If the problem is as you come off idle it hesitates, and then when a little more throttle is applied it runs fine, it may be getting confusing signals from the switch in the thumb throttle unit.

Try adjusting the idle screw on the TORS a little.

Hesitation and backfire is also a sign of a lean mix, blocked pilot jet or an air leak.

Is the oil delivery nipple on the carb blocked off?

Has the idle been set as per specs, the air screw is usually best at 1 1/2 turns out.

 

[tbrooks]

^^^^ yep need to leaktest first and if it checks out, clean the carb, check your floats and do a plug chop. Throw that tors away while your at it. All the info for these things are on here just search

 

[Gene]

Okay. Call me stupid! What is the TORS. Yes I do have the stock clutch lever. Yes the oil delivery nipple is blocked. No I don't think the idle is set to specs just, not sure what the spec is. So you guys run 32-1 rather than 40-1?

Good info guys, more things for me to check this eve.
Thanks

 

[motoman159]

I recently had the same problem and it was my cdi. It would chop at a steady throttle in mid to low range, but scream at full. I replaced my cdi and it helped. Also, check your spark to see if it looks normal as in a bright blue and in stays in the same place.

 

[Awk08]

What is the TORS. So you guys run 32-1 rather than 40-1?
Thanks

TORS = Throttle Override System
has nothing to do with what you're describing, if it malfuntions, or even functions properly when needed, it will allow the bike to start, but not rev at all, not stutter in certain ranges

03+ tors delete:
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.58395/

yes, 99%+ of us run 32:1, it's tried and proven the best ratio for these air cooled engines, and 99%+ of the jetting info on here is based on that ratio

 

[Gene]

Okay so I made some progress last night regarding the TORS system. I didn't see Awk08's post before I started, I basically searched the web and found a basic procedure.. Lets see if this settles well with you guys..

For testing purposes I kept things simple, no cutting of wires just in case it didn't work..

All I did was remove the switch from the Throttle, removed the switch from the parking brake, un-plugged the one for the carb, I did not unplug the throttle or the parking brake I just simply removed then form their housings.. Just an FYI not sure if that matters.. With that said I then found the green wire, un-plugged it and grounded it to the block. It may be one of those things but what I just described fixed the problem, It doesn't backfire anymore, fires up on the second or third kick and seems to run fine. Today I'll get it out for a test drive..

Now that I have checked out Awk's link which is more in depth then what I did do I really need to cut, splice and solder wires? It's working as it is? I'll do what you guys suggest the information that you all have supplied me with is Top Notch!!!! What a great Forum this is, everyone is so friendly and I don't feel odd for asking questions..

 

[Gene]

Does anyone have a trick for getting the fly wheel off without the puller? I pulled the cover off last night and a significant amount of water leaked out on the ground, several drops or so. Got to get things cleaned up...

 

[jus_me]

Not that I know of. A puller is only like 15$ or maybe try a local shop to borrow one. Most of the time but not all the guys are pretty cool and will loan you one.. Try and spray some pb where it meets and give a slight tap.. you may get lucky.. DO NOT HIT IT HARD THOUGH..

 

[Gene]

Thanks jus, I just came across a little tip. Put the nut on the shaft a few turns a lightly tap on it with a hammer. I will give that a try if my local shop won't loan me one..

 

[Awk08]

for the 03+ tors delete, the 2 wires must be cut and spliced coming out of the cdi/tors unit to fool the brain into thinking everything is still connected.
in didn't follow exactly what you did, as I've only ever had pre 03's. but I'm thinking the tors is actually still functioning, and maybe an extra ground solved your problem and had nothing to do with the tors ?
but if it runs now.....ride it like you stole it

 

[Gene]

This is the part that has me concerned.. I'm not standing over the quad now so I can't picture ECU side or throttle side... I'm going to head out to the garage here in a few.


So back to the TORS. Now that you have both connectors unplugged you will need to cut them off (connectors on ECU side not carb and throttle side)

You will have two wires (black and yellow) left with no connector. one set under hood, one set under seat. Once again, make sure you have cut the connectors on ECU side not carb and throttle side.

 

[Blaaster]

I do not recommend hitting on the flywheel nut, there will be a temptation to hit it a little harder if the flywheel does not loosen.

You could stretch the threads rendering them impossible to get the correct tension when fitting.

The flywheel side crankshaft bearing could too be dislodged from the sideways forces.

It would pay to wait for a puller!

 

[Gene]

Blaster you are correct. I hit it a few times lightly and wanted to hit it harder lol... I stopped at that point I could foresee what was going to take place if I continued.. The local shop would not loan out their puller so I will just to order one.