Hey everybody. Just got my first 4 wheeler awhile back its a blaster that has been used and abused. I've never worked on atvs b4 this but I've always worked on my own cars, weed eaters, chainsaws etc. So anyway I've already put close to 1000 in this thing fixing what was broke and that was stock used parts on ebay and I haven't even touched the engine or tranny because it was running fine when I got it, but what do I know lol. Now I've been seeing posts on here about leakdown test and done some reading up on that. I'm just gonna assume that I've prob got more than one without testing and I know I've got a tranny leak and as badly as this thing was treated I'm just thinking I should tear it down and replace gaskets and whatever else I need to. My question is how far should I go and what should I replace and do I have to have any special tools, I wanna treat it right but I'm also on a tight budget. I know I'm prob asking for a lot if there's already a thread about this please point me there. I really want to get out and ride this thing but I like to do things right and with all the work I've already done I don't wanna screw up the motor and cost me more. Thanks
how much teardown should I do
- Thread starter tbrooks
- Start date
first off, leak test the motor, if it has a airleak fix it, then next compression check it if its over 120 then ride it imo, then next if it has any aftermarket part, if it has any at all or even a airfilter or no lid on the airfilter box then check the main jet in the carb, if its 230 and its not stock then change that. post your findings
Thanks alot. I'll do that stuff as soon as I got some time. Not much of that with a new baby in the house. Honestly I wouldn't have took this on if I had known I was gonna have to go this far but it was a freebie b4 I started buying stuff and its too late to turn back now
reminds me of another member on the forum wifesblaster lol , hes in the same boat with a banshee
Thanks Blaaster. I already know I have a leak between the crankcase halves. Its just a slow drip but I'm assuming I should fix this b4 I even proceed with the leakdown test. I was originally thinking along the lines of a car, that since it was a slow leak I'd just watch the oil level and add as necessary until I had more time to fix it, but that doesn't seem like a wise move now. What makes me mad is when I got this thing my buddy said he took it to the local motorsports shop and they told him $150 in parts $250 in labor and it would be ready to ride. $1000 later doing my own labor and I'm still not even close. I have the I just wanna ride scenario, but I'll be patient and ride the 4 stroke I got for my daughter:/
If it is dripping oil it may just be a gear box leak.
Do a leak test to see if the crankcase is airtight.
Do a leak test to see if the crankcase is airtight.
Ok so I didn't get to the leakdown test yet, had to run all over town to redneck engineer a leakdown tester so I'll do that n compression check tomorrow. I did get the carb pulled of and from what I can gather its a 28.5mm mikuni with a 230 main jet. It seems just like the one in the book but I thought stock was 26mm. It does have an fmf power core 2 silencer but a stock pipe, maxima profilter with lid on the box, and I saw a sticker for aftermarket reeds on a fender somewhere other than that I'm not sure what this thing has I guess I need to dig around and find out.
Over 5 grand in the free shee. It absolutely ripped today though. Had a couple small issues that got worked out.
To the OP.... Don't give up on it yet. The fact that you got it for free leave more money for you to build it the way you want. Do what 89blaster said. Leak test and comp test an go from there.
Thanks wifesblaster. I wish I could build it the way I want but that's not in my budget. I'm just trying to get it nice, safe, n reliable. It's gonna be my oldest daughters when she is ready to graduate from the 4 stroke and mine to ride with her until then. I have to many other projects to really spend a whole lot of time anyway. I read thru most of ur thread, u did good and saved a lot, I'm hopin to part out a seadoo to cover some of my cost, but never sold anything online so I'm workin on figuring that out. I read something earlier said it always takes longer and cost more than you expect lol.
Blaaster I don't know if it will matter but this thing will mostly used for trail riding, so not a lot of WOT. I'm not sure if that will change the jet size I need. I still got lots to learn, a little more complicated than my weedeater lol. I'll get this thing tested tomorrow and go from there.
Blaaster I don't know if it will matter but this thing will mostly used for trail riding, so not a lot of WOT. I'm not sure if that will change the jet size I need. I still got lots to learn, a little more complicated than my weedeater lol. I'll get this thing tested tomorrow and go from there.
I just discovered too while inspecting the carb when they deleted the oil pump they never capped the carb, so theres no telling what that has done. They just cut the hoses and ran with it I guess. My buddy said what he does is just fill the lines and connect em and let it circulate but the pump is prob shot by now.
Not capping the oil injection nipple on the carb would have caused a lean mix.
Pre mixing at 32:1 in itself calls for an increase of one size main jet to compensate for the diminished fuel in the mix.
More oil = less fuel = lean.
I would now say run a #260 main jet.
The fuel that feeds the needle circuit is obtained through the main jet, if the jet is too small the needle circuit will starve for fuel.
Pre mixing at 32:1 in itself calls for an increase of one size main jet to compensate for the diminished fuel in the mix.
More oil = less fuel = lean.
I would now say run a #260 main jet.
The fuel that feeds the needle circuit is obtained through the main jet, if the jet is too small the needle circuit will starve for fuel.
Thanks blaaster, I was wondering if I need to open the motor and check the bore to see if there's been any work done b4 deciding on my main jet size, do u think that's a good idea?
And I am thoroughly excited. I was expecting the worst on my test today, but it went great. My leakdown test showed a loss of 1 psi in 5 min 2psi in 10, and after that I checked my test rig again and found that it lost 1psi in 10min so I'm looking at 1/2psi in 5min. I didn't look for any leaks because I didn't think I'd find em being that slow. Compression test went good as well I think topping out at 130. So my next question is, is there a shortcut I can take to fixing my crankcase leak without pulling it apart?
And I am thoroughly excited. I was expecting the worst on my test today, but it went great. My leakdown test showed a loss of 1 psi in 5 min 2psi in 10, and after that I checked my test rig again and found that it lost 1psi in 10min so I'm looking at 1/2psi in 5min. I didn't look for any leaks because I didn't think I'd find em being that slow. Compression test went good as well I think topping out at 130. So my next question is, is there a shortcut I can take to fixing my crankcase leak without pulling it apart?
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