Ok so first when I bought the blaster it bogged with air box on. So I pulled it and ran ok. I then decided to replace top end, reeds and clean and rebuild the carb. I replaced with 66.5mm wiseco piston. And when building the carb found that the needle was on the bottom clip. To me it made sense that too much fuel was entering thus not letting it run right with lid on. So I read in other places on this forum that the middle is where a stock blaster should be. So I installed the new needle in the middle. Last night stayed up til 1230 getting everything back together. This morning fired it up and it idled high. So now I'm thinking by lifting the needle 2 slots thus dropping the needle to the middle setting maybe it has too little fuel? Should I raise the needle by dropping the clip one slot? I'm lost now. Please help.
High idle
- Thread starter Sruiz67
- Start date
I don't have a leak tester? I don't know where to get one and don't want to wasted days getting one. I was spraying soapy water all around the head, reed valve, and jug gasket. I saw nothing to inform of a leak. That is just something I thought of. I know it's half ass but I figured that would work?
I will order one but right now I want to get this thing running. I bought it a 1and a half moths ago and with confusion on parts it gas taken to long, I want it running. I am itching to ride.
put the needle back in the middle position
what made you move it ?
itching to ride + high idle/possible air leak, unwilling to take our advice =
"whats the best piston to buy" threads.
will you take that advice when we give it ?
btw...i have a leakdown tester for ya, it could be there by tue/wed.
The needle is in the middle position now. When I pulled it apart it was at the bottom setting thus the needle too high. So I put it in the middle position. Air box lid is back on. I fired it up and idles high my questions are since I moved it back to the middle position jumping 2 slots up(dropping the needle). Should I back it down one? Could to little fuel give me a high idle? Idk......Also I am looking for advice. And taking it. I'm wondering if I can check for leaks doing anything else. Besides buying the tester?
Also awk if you would let me know price of your tester and some info. I want to ride but I won't chance screwing things up.
Also awk if you would let me know price of your tester and some info. I want to ride but I won't chance screwing things up.
the road to perfect running, in this order..........
leakdown test....
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
or (my testers info)
http://www.blasterforum.com/sale-18/leakdown-testers-55015/
clean carb
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
set/check floats
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/
adjust airscrew/pilot
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/
needle in the middle clip
plug chop main jets for your mods
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
other than an airleak, high idle is mostly effected by the float hieght and airscrew/pilot jet, or fuel starvation = poor fuel flow to carb or float height.
but can also be caused by the slide not install with the slot aligned with the little pin down in the carb,
a sticky throttle, or frayed cable holding the slide open.
check those things by checking slide operation and if it is fully closing.
then proceed with the above steps.
there is no shortcut
leakdown test....
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
or (my testers info)
http://www.blasterforum.com/sale-18/leakdown-testers-55015/
clean carb
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-clean-your-carb-pics-209/
set/check floats
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/float-heights-how-adjust-them-50565/
adjust airscrew/pilot
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet-51060/
needle in the middle clip
plug chop main jets for your mods
http://www.blasterforum.com/carburetor-138/how-plug-chop-53237/
other than an airleak, high idle is mostly effected by the float hieght and airscrew/pilot jet, or fuel starvation = poor fuel flow to carb or float height.
but can also be caused by the slide not install with the slot aligned with the little pin down in the carb,
a sticky throttle, or frayed cable holding the slide open.
check those things by checking slide operation and if it is fully closing.
then proceed with the above steps.
there is no shortcut
Man thank you! I'll work on it. I am thankful for the help. Y'all will hear from me soon. Whether good or bad we will see.
Good luck with everything. Awk pretty much summed it up as stated above.. do your leak test than carb adjusting and plug chop to get perfect tuning and you eill be glad you spent the xtra effort doing that than doing another rebuild almost imedietly.. actually i shouldnt have said extra effort because it's rule of thumb procedure. Especially since you just re did the top end..
I wouldn't even ride it around the block without testing for a leak. If you rebuilt everything on top end I'd bet there's a leak at intake boot or base gasket. If you ride it while its leaking your gonna become a pro at top ends lol. Fix her and keep her on the back tires man
Yeah, it hasn't been moved. I'm trying to build a leak tester. Struggling to find the parts to build it. I should have purchased one from awk. It would have been here by now and I'm probably going to spend more than what he sells them for. Lord knows I've spent over 40 in diesel just running around town looking for the damn parts. Oh well. But I'm not moving it till I leak test it and then getting it jetting correctly. I want to have a fun toy not a half ass bike that always is breaking down cause I didn't do things right.
Similar threads
