Help with installing Tusk kill switch

BennyBoy

New Member
Jun 30, 2012
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Australia
Hi All

I purchased from Rocky Mountain Atv tusk power pull kill switch, not the cheaper one.

I have earthed the short tusk wire to the frame. I Joined the long wire to the orange lead to the coil and then earthed the other end of the orange lead back to frame also.

Engine will not start wired up this way. Have I wired this correctly?

Any tips are welcomed.

I have read through numerous how to install threads and I thought I had it right?
 
so you tapped into the coil wire????


is that switch normally open or normally closed?


you need the black/white wire from the original kill switch
 
Your explanion is a bit vauge, to me it reads like that you have disconnected the CDI output to the coil.

My way of doing it is the solder both wires from the tether to the B/W and B wire on the back of the kill switch, or break into those wires.
 
I forgot to say that when I first fitted the kill switch, I used the black and white wires from the key switch but engine kept running when I pulled out tether, so I turned the key off engine kept running. In short the ignition key was not wired in for some reason.


I searched these forums and all answers said to use the black and white from key or orange input wire on coil.
 
it doesnt. that's the power wire to the coil. the coil grounds through the mounting bolts.


if you have a normally open switch, you need to wire it to the black/white wire that used to go to the kill switch. this will close the circuit and kill the bike


if it is a normally closed switch, you need to splice it in line with the orange wire. that way it will open the circuit when it is pulled.
 
If black and whites aren't working I"ll keep going with orange coil input.

To check if the switch is NC, when I put a multi meter on on it with tether in it should flow current, then when I pull tether, current should stop. Is that right?
 
if it is NC that is correct. and in that case, you need to splice it into the orange wire to the coil. the switch would not go to ground at all
 
it doesnt. that's the power wire to the coil. the coil grounds through the mounting bolts.

if you have a normally open switch, you need to wire it to the black/white wire that used to go to the kill switch. this will close the circuit and kill the bike

if it is a normally closed switch, you need to splice it in line with the orange wire. that way it will open the circuit when it is pulled.

I always thought that they were classified with the tether block removed.

Normally open, should open the circuit when the tether is pulled.

Normally closed, should close the circuit, when tether is pulled.

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Whoooo hooooo another chum from Aussie, welcome BennyBoy.
 
Maybe they are, it would make sense to me to rate as it would be while the bike is running.


Either way, a continuity test will show you the way
 
Ok I have the kill switch installed on the orange wire, but it runs with tether pulled out.

Next question is: Can the kill switch be swapped to work the opposite direction?
 
Ok I have the kill switch installed on the orange wire, but it runs with tether pulled out.

Next question is: Can the kill switch be swapped to work the opposite direction?

Then that just defeats the purpose of the kill switch. Its supposed to kill the bike if you go flying.
 
Then you need to take one side of the tether to the original black/white kill wire and the other side to ground. Splice the orange wire back together
 
You use the black and black white whire. Black is ground, black/white is the + (per say). If the kill switch shocks you then reverse the wires cause you hooked them up backwards. But it still will work correctly if they are reversed. To find out touch the bars and the metal contact on the outside of the switch and see if it shocks you.