Okay, so first off this is completely new to me however I’m mechanically inclined. So I blew a piston and it went right out the back exhaust and rebuilt the entire engine, everything on the top end is brand new I followed YouTube videos/manuals on proper way to build it and time it. So onto my issues, I’m getting no spark, so I read on here to take the stator off and test the resistance on the wires which checked out which means that everything is good with the stator, right? However hooking ground to my black wire on multimeter and red onto the black/red wire it shows that it’s not grounded no continuity where as the other ones are. I’ve checked the ignition coil and that checks out, I’ve tested the Ignition coil that checked out fine, I checked the spark plug boot, that checked out, the wire from coil to plug wire checked out as well. I’ve checked all the black ground wires which all have continuity when hooked to frame which means it’s grounded fine, the question I have is how does this not have spark? Is it the CDI?? I’ve read through most of these forums trying to figure it out and checked the repair manual. And maybe it’s because I don’t understand the slang that’s used by you guys but if you could help me and dumb it down for me it would be greatly appreciated.
Trouble starting Yamaha Blaster 2001
- Thread starter Keaton Smith
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- electrical help issues
Pretty hard to dumb down a manual.
Do you realize that you have two separate coils, ignition and lighting. Plus you have the pick up coil.
Do you realize that you have two separate coils, ignition and lighting. Plus you have the pick up coil.
Yeah I know I’m understanding it more, it seems as though my cdi may be bad? But I find it hard to believe since it was just running last September and started fine until I blew the top end. I tested resistance on black/black-red on primary coil and that checked out, and then black/white-red and that one checked out fine as well, I ripped the entire harness off today and tested continuity in all the wires. However when I bought it the headlight wasn’t working, oil injection was off, and I’m pretty sure the tors was off as well so im not soo sure about those wires. I also have a question about one of the coils it looks like someone tampered with it and un-soldered/un-glued it to one of the coils I’m not sure if that’s something that’s wrong? Or what it’s loose black and red wire I think. I can provide pictures if that would help.
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What year is this? Any pre 2003 all you really have to do is unplug the TORS brain. Three wire plug under the hood, only three wire plug there. 03+ you’ll have to search, one wire to the CDI needs to be cut.
You need to test the switches. IIRC the kill switch goes to ground, the key switch, when on has to have continuity.
Therefore I think to bypass kill switch just unplug it, the key would need to be bypassed (jumper wire)
Sometimes I have to much bouncing around inside my head. A lot has to do with the way things are going in the country.
F J B !!!
You need to test the switches. IIRC the kill switch goes to ground, the key switch, when on has to have continuity.
Therefore I think to bypass kill switch just unplug it, the key would need to be bypassed (jumper wire)
I’ll have to trust you on the research with the manual as to which wire/color does what. I’m kind of lazy 
Sometimes I have to much bouncing around inside my head. A lot has to do with the way things are going in the country.
F J B !!!
BTW, the CDI is the only thing that can’t be tested. Well at least without extensive knowledge and equipment.
Thank you Larry for the reply, I appreciate it I've seen you write on many posts. The problem with my wire harness is that someone before me chopped wires off so yellow/reds(for lights I believe) are snipped as well as many misc. wires which seem to be the TORS or for the Oil system which I've deleted. I guess ill have to grab the ol' multimeter out and test some more and see what happens. Otherwise the more I work on this thing the more I want to destroy it XD. Anyways thank you for the reply I will definitely Try unplugging the three wired plug under the hood.What year is this? Any pre 2003 all you really have to do is unplug the TORS brain. Three wire plug under the hood, only three wire plug there. 03+ you’ll have to search, one wire to the CDI needs to be cut.
You need to test the switches. IIRC the kill switch goes to ground, the key switch, when on has to have continuity.
Therefore I think to bypass kill switch just unplug it, the key would need to be bypassed (jumper wire)
I’ll have to trust you on the research with the manual as to which wire/color does what. I’m kind of lazy
Sometimes I have to much bouncing around inside my head. A lot has to do with the way things are going in the country.
F J B !!!
Contact South Texas Banshee. He makes wire harnesses for Banshee and Blaster with OEM style connectors. If you feel you need a new harness.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Sou...LjExLjaYAQCgAQGwAR4&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp
Also has some good ScrewTube videos
https://www.google.com/search?q=Sou...LjExLjaYAQCgAQGwAR4&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp
Also has some good ScrewTube videos
As to the TORS there would be two wires going to the throttle, two to carb, and three to under the hood. I would guess that one of those three would go to the CDI box
Figured it out, still doesn’t start but I read the threads on the leak down test setup and built one for about $30. Major intake leak had to put some Motoseal on the intake. Then right now currently working on a leaky head gasket since I guess the gasket they gave me was trash I just put some high temp red and just about to torque them down
Why is that? I’ve read many times on here that either copper, or red high temp rtv works just fine.
A: link a thread where this has been recommended.
B: The head gasket is a crush design. If you’re using sealant, you’re doing it wrong. Show me in a manual where it says to do it.
B: The head gasket is a crush design. If you’re using sealant, you’re doing it wrong. Show me in a manual where it says to do it.
