Need help with my 2000 blaster 200. Bought it a little while ago not running. Brought it home and fired up after pull starting it. Cleaned the gas and oil etc and ran pretty good. I wanted to do a carb rebuild because it still seemed a little choppy. Once into the rebuild the needle was set a notch higher then stock and it had a 250 main. Only thing that I know of is air box lid off as a mod for this. So wanting to keep it stock I put a 230 main and the 32.5 pilot and set the needle in the middle per research of stock settings and jets. Cleaned everything real good. Sprayed carb cleaner down every nook and cranny and put it back together. When I got running it was very bogged and didn't want to run so I tried putting the 250 main back in after cleaning it. Ran a little better but now it bogs in high rpms all the time and there would be a few times it bogs right out of idle. I must also say it doesn't kick start all the time. It will try to start most of the time on first kick but if I can't keep it running for a second it will die and it won't even try to want to start back up. I'm new to blasters and 4 wheelers in general. But I love my toys and I love working on things so I knew buying a project it wasn't going to run perfect or right away but it ran better before I touched it any help would be appreciated!!!
HELP!! Blaster probss
- Thread starter Seth Rowe
- Start date
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- blaster 200 carburetor
The middle clip position has worked for me on a bunch of blasters, from stock to ported n piped.
is it possible that's not the stock needle in yours ?
did you use any jets or needle from the rebuild kit ? < they're not genuine mikuni and definitely not the same tolerances
I see no mention of setting or checking the float height ? 20 - 21.5mm
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/
or setting the airscrew ? 1.5 turns out to start, then tune for highest idle
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
is it possible that's not the stock needle in yours ?
did you use any jets or needle from the rebuild kit ? < they're not genuine mikuni and definitely not the same tolerances
I see no mention of setting or checking the float height ? 20 - 21.5mm
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/
or setting the airscrew ? 1.5 turns out to start, then tune for highest idle
https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/
I'm pretty sure the original needle I took out was stock. The rebuild kit I bought had the same # on the needle. I must mention I has the TORS delete but still has the cap on top of the carb. I did set the screw 1.5 turns out. I did not check the float as i thought I was very careful but i shall definitely check that when I pull it off tonight. Being everything is stock to my eyes besides the air box lid being off, should I move the needle position up or down? Would it be a leaner mixture since it dies out around the time of the motor warming up meaning I would move the clip down?
I should say the rebuild kit I got was a all balls racing kit. Also it had an o ring in it. My carb never had a spot for an o ring that big to fit. Would it be in the upper part of the carb where the throttle cable runs through? If you can't tell I'm new to 4 wheelers. But I'm decently familiar with motorcycles. Which my bike has a couple mikunis on it so that helps (I think lol)
I believe those larger o-rings were for a similar carb that bolts directly onto the intake, you don't need it
Okay I wasn't sure and was nervous about even trying it without figuring it out but after an hour of contemplating I did. I've been at work but I plan to check float measurement and etc after I get home. Any other things I should check while in there? Any way to tell that there's something not stock internally without ripping it apart?? Thanks again for the help
I figure I should update you awk. I recently decided to just throw a hail Mary and move the needle clip back to where the previous owner (or whoever messed with it last) had it last. Which was one notch above stock. After installing and setting the air screw back to there wild but I guess working 3.5 turns out and it started up after some starting fluid, sat and idled for a sec and I took it out for a spin. At first it was kind of sluggish and non responsive then it cleared up and ran good. But then it seemed to be hit and miss with it loading up. At least it seemed to me. I adjusted the carb back to stock specs and it still seemed to do it. Not as bad but after a few minutes it did the same. Any idea why it would run better and actually start one notch up and any ideas on the loading up portion
