Here’s my take on the repair. The stock Blaster stud is screwed into the cylinder until it stops. The only thing holding the stud in is the center of the stud where the threads run out, the top side of the threads in the hole, and stud locker if you used it. When you install a Heli-Coil or any of the above mentioned inserts, you’re just jacking the stud down until it runs out of threads. This is a very small holding surface and may allow the stud to become loose again. If the stud starts floating in its threads, you run the risk of pulling out the threads of the stud or the repair. The CR 500 repair will never fail. The stud is a step stud with a flange at the top of the major diameter. The flange works as a possitive stop and allows the “builder” to torque the stud to a specified tension and seal it against the flange of the stud. This is not an experiment on my end. I’ve performed this repair more times than I care to remember and it works great. If you installed a heli-coil and it failed, don’t even bother to drill a new hole. Pass the tap in for the CR 500 stud and torque it down to 30 ft/ lbs. Make sure you use thread locker on the stud and you’re done for $5. While you’re in there, do all six of them. Like I said, this repair has never failed me. Civic, you seem to know quite a bit about it…………….ever try it?
Pictures of the Bigsert installation are above.
If the CR500 big end is M10 x 1.25 and a 9.77 x 1.25 hole has already been pulled out, how would you install the stud? That's like .010" deep threads.