head lite Q
- Thread starter jar1zx
- Start date
yea i think so .. i kno on my blsty when i put the light on high it will shut off and it will work on low .. idk whats up with it lol ..
I believe that is right, green is low, yellow is high. Mine was actually brighter on low then it was on high before I took the stock headlight off.
well i'm so damn happy for you. saying that.. how the hell did u help me or any 1 who has this problem?
look at the bulb really close and see if both filaments are still intact, it has separate ones for low and high. Maybe one is broke or fried and you need a new bulb.
mone when i had it would blow the bulb if i would get in the mid rpm on high and would be bright bright on low
^You are indeed correct.^ The green lead sends power to the low beam light, and the yellow lead delivers juice to the high beam. Now, let me see if I can't clear up some of these light-related questions...
First of all, a headlight that works ONLY on hi OR low beam is subject to an open or shorted circuit somewhere. I'd first test for the presence of DC power in the suspected bad lead. For example, if your high beam isn't working, probe the yellow lead with a volt meter to see if a minimum of 9 volts is present there with the switch in the 'HI' position and the engine idling. Similarly, if the low beam isn't working, do the same test on the green lead.
Got juice? Clean the contacts in the headlight socket, and if that doesn't work, try a new bulb. One filament is likely burned-out or shorted in the bulb, or corrosion in the light socket is preventing a good connection from being made.
No juice present? Oops! Then there isn't any power making it to the suspect circuit to begin with. Time to take apart the headlight switch on the handlebars and clean out the affected contacts. You may discover that something is broken or bent in there. This would result in an open circuit, and therefore no power to the light. If damaged contacts are determined to be the problem, you'll need to R&R the headlight switch. If you can't find anything wrong with the headlight switch, contacts, or bulb filaments, do a continuity test across the two contacts on the suspect circuit. Test the high-beam switch to be sure that the switch contacts are closing, or do the same with the low-beam switch, as needed. A switch that won't close stops the power right then and there.
Whew! Sorry to be so long-winded
, but perhaps that rant will wind up helping somebody...
Here I go again... Lol.
If you are having problems with repeatedly-blown light bulbs, or a headlight that won't come on at all, I bet there's a short circuit somewhere. A short circuit occurrs when power that is supposed to go to the headlight winds up being diverted elsewhere. This usually happens via an accidental ground, such as a bare wire or connection that is toucing the frame.
Remember, electricity always takes the path of least resistance while travelling through a circuit. If current in your headlight circuit finds a way to flow in which it does not have to 'work' to illuminate a light bulb, it's gonna take this path instead. (Note that a light bulb, like any accessory, places a load on a circuit.)
Now, if a circuit experiences a short, two big problems occur. First, the device that the current was supposed to power (in this case, the headlight) is rendered dead. Second, the sudden change of load on the circuit (caused by a short) allows a lot more current to flow through the wires than intended. And flow, this current does. This is where a fuse is supposed to save the day.
Wait a minute?! A fuse?! Ever noticed something about your Blaster? There is no fuse for the lighting circuit!.... Well, there kinda is, but that 'fuse' winds up being the voltage regulator. In the event of a short circuit, the massive resulting current draw usually fries the regulator until the connection is broken. Nasty shorts will also scorch the lighting coil on the stator plate. Those of you who keep popping regulators have a short somewhere. Sometimes, its the regulator itself. Other times, the generating coil for the lights is bad. It could be a corroded light socket that's letting current 'leak'. OH! Make sure your headlight bulb is 45 rated Watts or LESS!! A larger wattage bulb will perform poorly and cause damage!
To track down a short, check ALL your wires (and those contacts in the switch), to ensure that nothing is touching bare metal anywhere on the bike. Clean the headlight socket, and do a resistance test on the lighting coil by probing the yellow/red striped and solid black wires coming from the stator with an ohm meter. A reading of .16-.24 Ohms @ about 70 degrees F is normal. Anything else means that the lighting coil is no good. That could very well be your short right there.
So... Hope that cleared up some :-/:-/:-/'s. It is easy to replace a blown regulator, but I'd do it only after being sure that the circuit is complete and all other components are sound. I:I
If you are having problems with repeatedly-blown light bulbs, or a headlight that won't come on at all, I bet there's a short circuit somewhere. A short circuit occurrs when power that is supposed to go to the headlight winds up being diverted elsewhere. This usually happens via an accidental ground, such as a bare wire or connection that is toucing the frame.
Remember, electricity always takes the path of least resistance while travelling through a circuit. If current in your headlight circuit finds a way to flow in which it does not have to 'work' to illuminate a light bulb, it's gonna take this path instead. (Note that a light bulb, like any accessory, places a load on a circuit.)
Now, if a circuit experiences a short, two big problems occur. First, the device that the current was supposed to power (in this case, the headlight) is rendered dead. Second, the sudden change of load on the circuit (caused by a short) allows a lot more current to flow through the wires than intended. And flow, this current does. This is where a fuse is supposed to save the day.
Wait a minute?! A fuse?! Ever noticed something about your Blaster? There is no fuse for the lighting circuit!.... Well, there kinda is, but that 'fuse' winds up being the voltage regulator. In the event of a short circuit, the massive resulting current draw usually fries the regulator until the connection is broken. Nasty shorts will also scorch the lighting coil on the stator plate. Those of you who keep popping regulators have a short somewhere. Sometimes, its the regulator itself. Other times, the generating coil for the lights is bad. It could be a corroded light socket that's letting current 'leak'. OH! Make sure your headlight bulb is 45 rated Watts or LESS!! A larger wattage bulb will perform poorly and cause damage!
To track down a short, check ALL your wires (and those contacts in the switch), to ensure that nothing is touching bare metal anywhere on the bike. Clean the headlight socket, and do a resistance test on the lighting coil by probing the yellow/red striped and solid black wires coming from the stator with an ohm meter. A reading of .16-.24 Ohms @ about 70 degrees F is normal. Anything else means that the lighting coil is no good. That could very well be your short right there.
So... Hope that cleared up some :-/:-/:-/'s. It is easy to replace a blown regulator, but I'd do it only after being sure that the circuit is complete and all other components are sound. I:I
