Hanging idle,opinions?
- Thread starter UniRacing
- Start date
Test for air leaks.
Set float level.
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
Set float level.
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor to responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
More info on this would help. Is it a high idle of a high rev ? When does it do it ? Have you done any work on it lately ?
A dirty pilot jet. Double check/clean yours. Seen that problem more than once (a jet I swore was clean and wasn't
)
Sorry guys but it hangs when i hit the gas and it hangs at around 2000 rms
but if i let the clutch out a little it goes back down to normal and it runs fine,my motor shouldnt have any leaks its all oem gaskets torqued to spec,carb is supr clean
but if i let the clutch out a little it goes back down to normal and it runs fine,my motor shouldnt have any leaks its all oem gaskets torqued to spec,carb is supr clean
I would like to do an air leak test,i ned to build th tester,can i buy evrything at lowes? or auto zone maybe?
Just because you have OEM gaskets and tightened to spec doesnt mean its leak free...
A leak down test will tell you that, and you should perform a leak down test.
It's easier just to order it from AWK. You might save 10 bucks making it yourself. Not worth the time and gas money for me. Just saying
Is this after a fresh rebuild or some aftermarket parts added on? If the motor is free of airleaks then my edumacated guestimate says too lean of a pilot jet.
I would be paying particular attention to the reed cage and carby boot, they are very prone to leakage.
It only takes a little maladjustment to them little bolts to cause a major leak.
It only takes a little maladjustment to them little bolts to cause a major leak.
TORS or not? With the engine off, can you hear the slide snap shut? Could be hanging up in throttle housing, could have bad or needing lubrication cable. Could be cable routing. Could be speck of dirt on slide, or just gummed up a bit.
As to the leak down, straight from The Godfather : http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
A 1" schedule 40 pvc cap fits intake boot (stock carb) perfectly.
As to the leak down, straight from The Godfather : http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/build-use-leakdown-tester-10663/
A 1" schedule 40 pvc cap fits intake boot (stock carb) perfectly.
I just put a new top end with all new gaskets,everything is torqued to spec,tors is still on the bike but it doesnt seem to be the cable or slide hanging.
