ok well im guna pull my jug off and wile im at it i wana do a small port job just to like smoothen it out and make that thing in the middle more arodinamic what else can i do to it that dosnt risk me f*cken up to easly
first time porting
- Thread starter blasterjarred
- Start date
polish your exhaust port and match it to the exhaust gasket. just go slow and dont take out too much.
polish the inside of your head. i remember when i got bored one afternoon and tried this, i was amazed by the results, i didn't think it would make a noticeable difference.
polish the inside of your head. i remember when i got bored one afternoon and tried this, i was amazed by the results, i didn't think it would make a noticeable difference.
if you don' mind losing some bottom end to gain some top end you could lift the top of the exhaust port, but only go a little bit, 1 or 2 mm
remember if you raise the exhaust port you are now shortening the area that the motor builds compression in, if you do the raised exhaust you will gain power on top and when you but a NEW head gasket on get a hi-comp. gasket from Vito's and you'll be back to normal, and you'll be faster.
with reeds out you can see how much smaller piston windows are. Make them the same size as intake. You can add boyesen ports, knife edge the transfer jackets. I did my own just by comparing pics in this page. The boyesen ports made me rejet, and it alone was very noticable. http://rides.webshots.com/album/240071089YNhjzU
don't bother w/ the boyesen ports. they won't do anything unless you get a professional drag port. even an aggresive trail port design doesn't need boyesen ports. they're only for race fuel and drag port designs.
also, if you raise your exhaust port, the hi compression gasket won't be enough to compensate for the loss of bottom end. you'll need to have the head redesigned and milled.
simply polishing the exhaust port will help you out a lot, but be careful porting the intake. redesigning it incorrectly or taking too much off could both actually take power away.
and don't even think about touching the transfer ports or changing the shape of any part of the exhaust port.
unless you know your sh*t about exact blow down times, exhaust port width and height parameters in relation to the piston width, pipe characteristics (the parameters of the pipe make a HUGE difference in what you need to do to the ports) and crank degrees (all sh*t that i only know a little about) i wouldn't really try to port your engine.
send it to a real builder who's try different designs and perfected their jug/head design to draw max horse. i always recommend kennedy_power, but any of the other guys in here (wildcard, pittboss, flotek) would do a MUCH better job than you can do at home.
also, if you raise your exhaust port, the hi compression gasket won't be enough to compensate for the loss of bottom end. you'll need to have the head redesigned and milled.
simply polishing the exhaust port will help you out a lot, but be careful porting the intake. redesigning it incorrectly or taking too much off could both actually take power away.
and don't even think about touching the transfer ports or changing the shape of any part of the exhaust port.
unless you know your sh*t about exact blow down times, exhaust port width and height parameters in relation to the piston width, pipe characteristics (the parameters of the pipe make a HUGE difference in what you need to do to the ports) and crank degrees (all sh*t that i only know a little about) i wouldn't really try to port your engine.
send it to a real builder who's try different designs and perfected their jug/head design to draw max horse. i always recommend kennedy_power, but any of the other guys in here (wildcard, pittboss, flotek) would do a MUCH better job than you can do at home.
yea i found out that my shop class dosnt have a f*cken dremal so i dono how im guan polish it any sugestions and i would proly polish the head and exaust and how should i make the shape of the middle thing in the intake side if i can find somethen to do this with
The middle thing is like a big rectangle, i took and sharpened it to a triangle to split the air. I cant think of anything other than some dremel type tool. It is tight in there files and things wouldn't work.
Buy a dremel!! I have a black and decker brand one, in an actual dremel box (because my dad burned the motor out on his dremel). I bought the black and decker one like 2 years ago for about 30 bux, I've abused it and it still works great! All the dremel brand stuff works on it.
ok so i can barrow a dremal from my friend so thats coverd but what am i suposto hit the head with a bit or like a polishing bit and the same with the exaust what kinda bit do i use and would it help to polish the intake to??
dose it make a difrence to match the intake ports on the pisten and the botem to the lil wings cus im a lil worryied about doing that is it easy to mess up?
polish the exhaust, not the intake. match the ports in the piston. slide the piston up in there and trace onto the piston once you have the jug ported then you can do the piston.
use a barrel sander for the rough cut on the intake. remove casting flaws (if any) in the exhaust with the barrel sander then if you can find a polishing steel-wood type bit you can polish with it or use a cotton tip with polishing compound. don't forget to polish the head.
use a barrel sander for the rough cut on the intake. remove casting flaws (if any) in the exhaust with the barrel sander then if you can find a polishing steel-wood type bit you can polish with it or use a cotton tip with polishing compound. don't forget to polish the head.
ok yea i have the cotten one but no compound lol is there anything i can use that could just be laying around my house??
would you guys stop it, you guys have a better chance of finding a winning lottery ticket than getting any gains with household goodies, porting is not done with a drill, you need to understand porting to attempt it, and that doesn't mean you'll get it right. step away from that motor until you have enough money to pay a professional and at the same time ask him or her why is that done and what will it do, radius, angles, and direction mean everything.
I recommend you read some books and do some homework before you attempt anything, even a cleanup port. It is all too easy to make a mistke that will cost you your cylinder. Gordon Jennings 2stroke tuning handbook is a good read. I don't recommend cutting the piston windows larger, more times than not it will weaken the integrity of the piston skirt and cause severe cylinder, case and crankshaft damage when it lets go. The only real advantage to polishing the exhaust to a mirror shine is that it won't allow carbon buildup, there is actually an advantage to a slightly rough texture as it will allow for a boundary layer of gas and improve flow. The surface just should not be rippled so as to create eddy's in the flow. As far as the boyesen ports they add power in the low to mid at the expense of some top end, I don't usually use them on drag builds. And, you can polish your head if you want..but I seriously doubt you'll see much gain from it.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
well im using a dremal not a drill so and also the only thing im asking about house hold items is for the polishing and also everything helps so im guna try and im not guna go crazy with it and im not guna touch somethen thats guna risk my jug just guna touch it up
start with this
TXMC Hang-up with 1/3 HORSE Motor
NO. 10 KIT
1 - TXMC Hang-up Motor- with Foot Controle and Flex-shaft
1 - 44 MC Handpiece with 1/4" collet
1 - 1 MC Angle Handpiece with 1/8" Collet
1 - DC-26 1/4" Shank Carbide 2" length
1 - RC-26L 1/4" Shank Carbide 2" length
2 - Pieces 1/8" Shank Carbide
1 - Slotted Mandrel 4" length
1 - 1/4" X 2 1/2" Regular Spiral roll Mandrel
1 - 1/8" X 1 1/2" Spiral roll Mandrel
1 - M-7 Mandrel for C-3 Buffs
2 - M-6 1/8" X 1 1/2" Mandrel for FB-3 Buffs
1 - AM25 - 1/8" Mandrel for Rubber Abrasives
1 - AM 20 1/8" Mandrel for Rubber Abrasives
10 - 3/8" Dia. x 1" (3 different grits) Cartridge Rolls
5 ea. - A-11 Rubber Abrasives C-M-F
10 - FB-3 Buffs
5 -C-3 1/2" x 1" bullet Shaped Buffs
1 - 4 oz. Bar Compound
1 - Oil for 1 MC
1 - Grease (for drive shaft)
(1 - 1/8" Collet 44 MC -(nc)
$799.00
Page 7
this is from C&C Specialties good product and then you can add more, you remind me alot of myself 40 years ago but I tried getting the right equipment, wanting to do it is good not having this basic set-up bad
TXMC Hang-up with 1/3 HORSE Motor
NO. 10 KIT
1 - TXMC Hang-up Motor- with Foot Controle and Flex-shaft
1 - 44 MC Handpiece with 1/4" collet
1 - 1 MC Angle Handpiece with 1/8" Collet
1 - DC-26 1/4" Shank Carbide 2" length
1 - RC-26L 1/4" Shank Carbide 2" length
2 - Pieces 1/8" Shank Carbide
1 - Slotted Mandrel 4" length
1 - 1/4" X 2 1/2" Regular Spiral roll Mandrel
1 - 1/8" X 1 1/2" Spiral roll Mandrel
1 - M-7 Mandrel for C-3 Buffs
2 - M-6 1/8" X 1 1/2" Mandrel for FB-3 Buffs
1 - AM25 - 1/8" Mandrel for Rubber Abrasives
1 - AM 20 1/8" Mandrel for Rubber Abrasives
10 - 3/8" Dia. x 1" (3 different grits) Cartridge Rolls
5 ea. - A-11 Rubber Abrasives C-M-F
10 - FB-3 Buffs
5 -C-3 1/2" x 1" bullet Shaped Buffs
1 - 4 oz. Bar Compound
1 - Oil for 1 MC
1 - Grease (for drive shaft)
(1 - 1/8" Collet 44 MC -(nc)
$799.00
Page 7
this is from C&C Specialties good product and then you can add more, you remind me alot of myself 40 years ago but I tried getting the right equipment, wanting to do it is good not having this basic set-up bad
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