Finally time for a rebuil!

The clutch side output shaft bearing hole is just that, a hole. Worked with trans that was in it, but not the one I used. Or it !ay have moved a hair when I heated the case to install balancer bearing.
Only talking .010- .015" to far. One light tap with hammer and punch

And put a new 3mil crank while I had it apart :cool:
 
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The clutch side output shaft bearing hole is just that, a hole. Worked with trans that was in it, but not the one I used. Or it !ay have moved a hair when I heated the case to install balancer bearing.
Only talking .010- .015" to far. One light tap with hammer and punch

And put a new 3mil crank while I had it apart :cool:
 
Larry's Shee said:
The clutch side output shaft bearing hole is just that, a hole. Worked with trans that was in it, but not the one I used. Or it !ay have moved a hair when I heated the case to install balancer bearing.
Only talking .010- .015" to far. One light tap with hammer and punch

And put a new 3mil crank while I had it apart :cool:
Click to expand...
Heated the case to install balancer bearing? Explain. Videos I watched they didn' have to heat the case
 
I also just read on an old post that KOR had significant success lightening the counter balance shaft. So I'm probably gonna have him do that too since I'm having hum lighten my flywheel and rebuild my crank
 
Put bearing in freezer for couple days. Heat case in oven on low. ,,150* . Bearing will drop right in. Have to do this in kitchen, be to 'cold' by time you get to garage. Highly suggested not to use direct heat (, torch) on cases.
Very similar to swedging a bearing on crank.

I think KOR has a video of swedging a bearing, on Utube.

Depending on where and how you ride, reducing rotational mass is a good idea, including aluminum wheels and lighter tires.
 
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Larry's Shee said:
Put bearing in freezer for couple days. Heat case in oven on low. ,,150* . Bearing will drop right in. Have to do this in kitchen, be to 'cold' by time you get to garage. Highly suggested not to use direct heat (, torch) on cases.
Very similar to swedging a bearing on crank.

I think KOR has a video of swedging a bearing, on Utube.

Depending on where and how you ride, reducing rotational mass is a good idea, including aluminum wheels and lighter tires.
Click to expand...
Well according to his response, the significance of him lightening the balancer was enough that he now offers it as a service. And that makes me wonder if it's required to heat the beating cast like I said I've seen plenty of videos where it wasn' needed to install that bearing
 
It all depends on the tolerance. Sometimes just freezing the bearing is all it takes.

I highly recommend replacing the shaft bearings and inspect the balancer gear very closely. Ask Ken about those things.

If I were half my age I would probably do the lightening :p
 
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Larry's Shee said:
It all depends on the tolerance. Sometimes just freezing the bearing is all it takes.

I highly recommend replacing the shaft bearings and inspect the balancer gear very closely. Ask Ken about those things.

If I were half my age I would probably do the lightening :p
Click to expand...
Lmfao what's that suppose to mean :p:rolleyes:
 
And so it begins lol. First string of parts came in lol
20180103_185356.jpg
 
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Anyone have recommendations on bars and handguards? I bought some Fly Racing bars (cr high bend) and they are some pretty nice bars but I screwed myself on control area. I' either shorted myself on space for grips or space for handguards. Anyone have recommendations for bars with enough control area for grips, throttle, levers, and handguards? And some decent handguards that aren' ugly as heck haha
20180104_124111.jpg
20180104_124121.jpg
 
ProjectBlasturd said:
Lmao unfortunately yes I do haha. And I'm gonna go with the Renthal 7/8 bars (atv race bend) these are the ones and they should have plenty of control area https://www.renthal.com/shop/mx-products/handlebars/se-handlebars/atv-se-handlebars?product_id=2013
Click to expand...
sounds like enough control room you need at least over 200mm plus change:)
this is 199mm of control room but barely enough and i did not have everything on bars lol\/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/what-are-the-original-handlebars.66147/#post-803143
 
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speedyslyder said:
those would definetly work:)
Click to expand...
Lol yeah I seen your post about the pro tapers lol. Good ole search function Willis ;) and yeah I think they should have plenty of room. Now I'll just have to find a legit set of handguards for them. I wouldn't mind a set that mounts under or over the levers but I like the ones that mount into the bars as well :D
 
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