Then you have never done a plug chop, the whole idea of a plug chop is to "CHOP" off the end to read the insulator.
ever had a cutoff
- Thread starter ldrancer
- Start date
Then you have never done a plug chop, the whole idea of a plug chop is to "CHOP" off the end to read the insulator.
This thread is an epic fail.
It may fail as to fixing a problem, but nominated for a grammy for humor. 8-|
It may fail as to fixing a problem, but nominated for a grammy for humor. 8-|
I think there was plenty of good fix it info. I couldn't make much sense of his rambling.
ya i get it now. i was just thinking about that pilot jet. you pull plugs at idle. but not 1/4 or 3/4 how? its a measured distance. unless you know. so people giving me references askign me to chop. ok i dont know how to tune.
but if i hadnt of got my pilot tuned right i wouldnt be able to tune it to the main jet.
ive never really jetted. i guess if id actaully ripped the top off the spark plug id been wondering how i was jetting before.
This may be of help., it would have taken me all day to type all this but I had a lot of help from a good friend of mine.
Instructions
Idle Speed Adjustment
1
Lift the scooter onto its center stand. Unlock the scooter's seat and raise it into a fully opened position. Unlock and remove the maintenance lid from the under-seat storage compartment, using the ignition key.
2
Start the engine and let it idle for three minutes to allow it to warm to its operating temperature. Do not stop the engine.
3
Clamp an inductive tachometer onto the spark plug cable, located at the center of the maintenance lid. Turn on the tachometer. Ideally, the engine should be idling between 1,750 to 1,850 rpm.
4
Locate the throttle stop screw through the access hole at the front of the air cleaner box on the left side of the rear wheel. The throttle stop screw is at the upper portion of the access hole. Turn the screw clockwise, using a flat-head screwdriver, to increase the engine idle speed. Alternatively, turn the screw counterclockwise to reduce the idle speed.
5
Twist the throttle grip quickly two to three times and let the engine settle back into a steady idle. Readjust the idle speed if it does not return to a range of 1,750 to 1,850 rpm.
6
Stop the engine. Remove the tachometer clamp from the spark plug cable. Reinstall the maintenance lid and lower the seat until it locks into place.
Compensating for Slight Changes in Altitude or Temperature.
7
Find the air mixture screw in the lower portion of the air cleaner box access hole, located at the front of the air cleaner box. Turn the air mixture screw clockwise with a flat-head screwdriver until it seats lightly against the carburetor body. Count the number of turns as you go. Ideally, the screw should be set to 1-3/8 turns from a fully-seated position if you are working on a 1988 through 1993 SR50 model, or 1-7/8 turns for a 1993 to 2001 SR50 model. Turn the screw back to its original setting or to the factory-specified setting corresponding to the model year of your scooter.
8
Lift the scooter onto its center stand and start the engine. Let the engine warm up for three minutes, but do not stop the engine.
9
Turn the air mixture screw counterclockwise a half-turn at a time and listen to the engine as it idles. Stop turning the air mixture screw as soon as the engine idle speed increases slightly, then turn the screw clockwise a quarter-turn.
10
Lower the scooter from its center stand and take it for a short test ride. The scooter should accelerate smoothly from a complete standstill. Stop and turn the air mixture screw a quarter-turn in either direction if you feel any hesitation when accelerating.
Main Jet Replacement for Elevations Above 6,500 Feet
11
Lift the scooter onto its center stand and allow the engine to cool for a minimum of 30 minutes.
12
Remove the center cover panel mounting screw, located between the seat hinge, using an Allen wrench. Pull the tab at the bottom of the cover out of the groove cut into the floorboard. Lift the cover up to free the tabs along the sides of the cover from the grooves cut into the side cover panels.
13
Remove the pair of bolts attaching the left side cover to the side of the floorboard, using an Allen wrench. Depress the center of the plastic push rivet attaching the rear of the left side cover to the scooter's frame, using the tip of a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the rivet out of the side cover, then slide the cover toward the front of the scooter to disengage the mounting hooks along the upper edge of the cover.
14
Unscrew all four acorn nuts attaching the luggage rack to the rear of the scooter, using a socket and a ratchet. Lift the rack away. Remove the screws attaching the rear of the upper left rear cover to the scooter, using a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the bolt from the front of the cover, using a ratchet. Pull the cover away from the scooter.
15
Remove the pair of hex-head bolts along the bottom edge of the air cleaner box, using a socket and a ratchet. Loosen the clamp attaching the air cleaner duct to the carburetor inlet, using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the air cleaner box away from the scooter.
16
Unplug the automatic bystarter connector -- the large white connector along the positive-side of the battery.
17
Loosen the clamp attaching the fuel hose to the left side of the carburetor, using pliers. Pull the hose off the carburetor fuel inlet.
18
Unscrew the round top cap from the top of the carburetor by hand. Pull the throttle valve out of the carburetor. Do not remove the cable from the top cap and throttle valve.
19
Unbolt the carburetor from the engine, using a socket and a ratchet. Hold the carburetor over a drain pan, then loosen the float chamber drain screw at the bottom of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver.
20
Flip the carburetor over so the float chamber faces upward. Remove the float chamber from the carburetor, using a Phillips screwdriver. Unscrew the main jet from the taller tower at the center of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. The original main jet is intended for use below 5,000 feet above sea level and will be a No. 88 for a 1988 to 1992 SR50, or a No. 78 for a 1993 to 2001 SR50 model. Keep this jet for later use.
21
Screw a new No. 85 main jet into the center tower if you are working on a 1988 to 1992 SR50, or a No. 75 for a 1993 to 2001 SR50. Tighten the jet until it is seated snugly in the tower. Reinstall the float chamber and snugly tighten the screws.
22
Reinstall the carburetor onto the engine and push the throttle valve into the carburetor. Screw the top cap snugly into place by hand. Push the fuel hose onto the fuel inlet and move the clamp into place over the end of the hose.
23
Push the air cleaner box duct over the carburetor inlet and mount the air cleaner onto the scooter's frame. Tighten the air cleaner box and air duct clamp until they are snug.
24
Reinstall the left rear cover, left side cover and center cover panel onto the scooter. Reinstall the luggage rack and tighten the acorn nuts to 10 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench.
25
Turn the air mixture screw counterclockwise a half-turn if you are working on a 1988 to 1992 SR50. Alternatively, turn the throttle stop screw clockwise a half-turn, if you are working on a 1993 to 2001 SR50
26
Warm the engine and reset the idle as outlined in Section One. Test ride the scooter and adjust the air mixture screw as needed, using the procedure outlined in Section 2.
Read more: How to Adjust a Honda Elite SR50 Carburetor | eHow
Instructions
Idle Speed Adjustment
1
Lift the scooter onto its center stand. Unlock the scooter's seat and raise it into a fully opened position. Unlock and remove the maintenance lid from the under-seat storage compartment, using the ignition key.
2
Start the engine and let it idle for three minutes to allow it to warm to its operating temperature. Do not stop the engine.
3
Clamp an inductive tachometer onto the spark plug cable, located at the center of the maintenance lid. Turn on the tachometer. Ideally, the engine should be idling between 1,750 to 1,850 rpm.
4
Locate the throttle stop screw through the access hole at the front of the air cleaner box on the left side of the rear wheel. The throttle stop screw is at the upper portion of the access hole. Turn the screw clockwise, using a flat-head screwdriver, to increase the engine idle speed. Alternatively, turn the screw counterclockwise to reduce the idle speed.
5
Twist the throttle grip quickly two to three times and let the engine settle back into a steady idle. Readjust the idle speed if it does not return to a range of 1,750 to 1,850 rpm.
6
Stop the engine. Remove the tachometer clamp from the spark plug cable. Reinstall the maintenance lid and lower the seat until it locks into place.
Compensating for Slight Changes in Altitude or Temperature.
7
Find the air mixture screw in the lower portion of the air cleaner box access hole, located at the front of the air cleaner box. Turn the air mixture screw clockwise with a flat-head screwdriver until it seats lightly against the carburetor body. Count the number of turns as you go. Ideally, the screw should be set to 1-3/8 turns from a fully-seated position if you are working on a 1988 through 1993 SR50 model, or 1-7/8 turns for a 1993 to 2001 SR50 model. Turn the screw back to its original setting or to the factory-specified setting corresponding to the model year of your scooter.
8
Lift the scooter onto its center stand and start the engine. Let the engine warm up for three minutes, but do not stop the engine.
9
Turn the air mixture screw counterclockwise a half-turn at a time and listen to the engine as it idles. Stop turning the air mixture screw as soon as the engine idle speed increases slightly, then turn the screw clockwise a quarter-turn.
10
Lower the scooter from its center stand and take it for a short test ride. The scooter should accelerate smoothly from a complete standstill. Stop and turn the air mixture screw a quarter-turn in either direction if you feel any hesitation when accelerating.
Main Jet Replacement for Elevations Above 6,500 Feet
11
Lift the scooter onto its center stand and allow the engine to cool for a minimum of 30 minutes.
12
Remove the center cover panel mounting screw, located between the seat hinge, using an Allen wrench. Pull the tab at the bottom of the cover out of the groove cut into the floorboard. Lift the cover up to free the tabs along the sides of the cover from the grooves cut into the side cover panels.
13
Remove the pair of bolts attaching the left side cover to the side of the floorboard, using an Allen wrench. Depress the center of the plastic push rivet attaching the rear of the left side cover to the scooter's frame, using the tip of a Phillips screwdriver. Pull the rivet out of the side cover, then slide the cover toward the front of the scooter to disengage the mounting hooks along the upper edge of the cover.
14
Unscrew all four acorn nuts attaching the luggage rack to the rear of the scooter, using a socket and a ratchet. Lift the rack away. Remove the screws attaching the rear of the upper left rear cover to the scooter, using a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the bolt from the front of the cover, using a ratchet. Pull the cover away from the scooter.
15
Remove the pair of hex-head bolts along the bottom edge of the air cleaner box, using a socket and a ratchet. Loosen the clamp attaching the air cleaner duct to the carburetor inlet, using a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the air cleaner box away from the scooter.
16
Unplug the automatic bystarter connector -- the large white connector along the positive-side of the battery.
17
Loosen the clamp attaching the fuel hose to the left side of the carburetor, using pliers. Pull the hose off the carburetor fuel inlet.
18
Unscrew the round top cap from the top of the carburetor by hand. Pull the throttle valve out of the carburetor. Do not remove the cable from the top cap and throttle valve.
19
Unbolt the carburetor from the engine, using a socket and a ratchet. Hold the carburetor over a drain pan, then loosen the float chamber drain screw at the bottom of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver.
20
Flip the carburetor over so the float chamber faces upward. Remove the float chamber from the carburetor, using a Phillips screwdriver. Unscrew the main jet from the taller tower at the center of the carburetor, using a flat-head screwdriver. The original main jet is intended for use below 5,000 feet above sea level and will be a No. 88 for a 1988 to 1992 SR50, or a No. 78 for a 1993 to 2001 SR50 model. Keep this jet for later use.
21
Screw a new No. 85 main jet into the center tower if you are working on a 1988 to 1992 SR50, or a No. 75 for a 1993 to 2001 SR50. Tighten the jet until it is seated snugly in the tower. Reinstall the float chamber and snugly tighten the screws.
22
Reinstall the carburetor onto the engine and push the throttle valve into the carburetor. Screw the top cap snugly into place by hand. Push the fuel hose onto the fuel inlet and move the clamp into place over the end of the hose.
23
Push the air cleaner box duct over the carburetor inlet and mount the air cleaner onto the scooter's frame. Tighten the air cleaner box and air duct clamp until they are snug.
24
Reinstall the left rear cover, left side cover and center cover panel onto the scooter. Reinstall the luggage rack and tighten the acorn nuts to 10 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench.
25
Turn the air mixture screw counterclockwise a half-turn if you are working on a 1988 to 1992 SR50. Alternatively, turn the throttle stop screw clockwise a half-turn, if you are working on a 1993 to 2001 SR50
26
Warm the engine and reset the idle as outlined in Section One. Test ride the scooter and adjust the air mixture screw as needed, using the procedure outlined in Section 2.
Read more: How to Adjust a Honda Elite SR50 Carburetor | eHow
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My wonderful friend has a fair amount of input to this post also.
I felt that it was not nessessary to insult your intelligence by posting pictures as you know what your little scooter looks like.
How to Adjust your Moped / Scooters Idle | eHow
Instructions
1
Small Cover opens to show the engine and throttle adjustment
The first step to adjusting your idle speed is to put your moped on the center stand so we that the back wheel is off the ground and able to spin freely. Now we need to find where the throttle cable runs into the engine. Most of the time there is access to this under the seat as can be seen in this picture.
2
Idle screw is labeled
Generally underneath the engine cover you will see a screw that looks like this in the picture. This is the screw we use to asjust the idle speed.
3
Now make sure we have a screwdriver that will work on this screw and then start your engine. If it stalls at stop signs or after you start it we need to turn the idle screw to the right. I always turn the screw a 1/4 turn at a time. After each turn stop for a minute and let the engine react to the adjustment. If it still dies do another 1/4 turn and wait. The ideal idle speed is the speed at which your back tire just barely wants to turn while in the air on your center stand. If your tire spins quickly, then our idle speed is too high and we need to start turning the idle to the left a 1/4 turn at a time. Then wait 1 minute and do again if necessary.
I felt that it was not nessessary to insult your intelligence by posting pictures as you know what your little scooter looks like.
How to Adjust your Moped / Scooters Idle | eHow
Instructions
1
Small Cover opens to show the engine and throttle adjustment
The first step to adjusting your idle speed is to put your moped on the center stand so we that the back wheel is off the ground and able to spin freely. Now we need to find where the throttle cable runs into the engine. Most of the time there is access to this under the seat as can be seen in this picture.
2
Idle screw is labeled
Generally underneath the engine cover you will see a screw that looks like this in the picture. This is the screw we use to asjust the idle speed.
3
Now make sure we have a screwdriver that will work on this screw and then start your engine. If it stalls at stop signs or after you start it we need to turn the idle screw to the right. I always turn the screw a 1/4 turn at a time. After each turn stop for a minute and let the engine react to the adjustment. If it still dies do another 1/4 turn and wait. The ideal idle speed is the speed at which your back tire just barely wants to turn while in the air on your center stand. If your tire spins quickly, then our idle speed is too high and we need to start turning the idle to the left a 1/4 turn at a time. Then wait 1 minute and do again if necessary.
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a starting from the beginning what to do factory steps. after getting bike and adjusting for high altitude or other conditions.
i get something out of it. use idle to adjust my throttle. im going so high idle, and any mix adjustements are hard to keep up with. alright. but thats all iskipped the rest.
i get something out of it. use idle to adjust my throttle. im going so high idle, and any mix adjustements are hard to keep up with. alright. but thats all iskipped the rest.
read that part where i posted that old vimeo video link. of like a year ago. thats where i was but now im tuning with the idle turned up.
im now, at jet's. the things where tuning, at the other end of the rich side of the atomizer setting. pilot has stayedaround, 35-38. needle has ranged, anywhere. i havent no clue. and main usually stayed, where its at.
ive looked down in one, jetting like this. not had idle, tuned. get back to me with updates on my questions nad ill get back to you with updates on my cut up spark plugs.
im sure that'll help me figure out, rich lean instead of peoples ideas and no information.
well thanks.
im now, at jet's. the things where tuning, at the other end of the rich side of the atomizer setting. pilot has stayedaround, 35-38. needle has ranged, anywhere. i havent no clue. and main usually stayed, where its at.
ive looked down in one, jetting like this. not had idle, tuned. get back to me with updates on my questions nad ill get back to you with updates on my cut up spark plugs.
im sure that'll help me figure out, rich lean instead of peoples ideas and no information.
well thanks.
Get to it and report back with a smile on your face.
We here at BF are happy that you are well on the way to having your problem solved.
We here at BF are happy that you are well on the way to having your problem solved.
the problem was solved. i was only coming back here to update my status, and so that you can ask questinos. follow along.. 2 carbs. off throttle problems. ones' a dellorto the others an oko.
whts hte problem jhere to follow along?
im only here to answer any questions and add crap. im totally tooken care of. try what i done. do tune like i said. go out. come back. pretend thats how to ttune. ask what the f**ck is wrong with my biek and carb.
whts hte problem jhere to follow along?
im only here to answer any questions and add crap. im totally tooken care of. try what i done. do tune like i said. go out. come back. pretend thats how to ttune. ask what the f**ck is wrong with my biek and carb.
Thanks for sharing your experiences with the members of Blaster Forum, I think that I can say on behalf of the other members that our minds have been enlightened by your experiences.
If we ever need to fix cutoff problems on a Honda scooter we are now all the wiser., and now are fully equipped to answer questions.
I should like to take the opportunity to thank all members of BF for their supportive input, even though it fell on deaf ears.
As to case sealant, Yamabond or 3 bond are excellent products.
A leak test should be done every time you remove any hardware on the inlet side of the motor, or any gasketed or sealed mating surface that has been disturbed.
Leak tests should be performed at least twice a season to make sure the motor is healthy.
If we ever need to fix cutoff problems on a Honda scooter we are now all the wiser., and now are fully equipped to answer questions.
I should like to take the opportunity to thank all members of BF for their supportive input, even though it fell on deaf ears.
As to case sealant, Yamabond or 3 bond are excellent products.
A leak test should be done every time you remove any hardware on the inlet side of the motor, or any gasketed or sealed mating surface that has been disturbed.
Leak tests should be performed at least twice a season to make sure the motor is healthy.
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I have been trying and trying to get my head around this comment by you, where on earth did you pick up that piece of useless information from.
In all my time in the Automotive trade I have never heard such Bollocks.
/\ /\ /\ Reminds me of the Biddelonian dog who was laying in the corner chewing a bone.
When he got up, one of his legs dropped off.
When he got up, one of his legs dropped off.
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